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10-17-2013, 12:25 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: SoCal
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Sm465 to 700r4 driveshaft
I've got a 70 C20 longbed BB402 granny 4spd(2 piece drive shaft). Want to put in a 700r4. Anyone with experience here? Swap seems easy except for the driveshaft length. Tranny..check. Crossmember...check. TV cable...check. Did a search and found nothing but TH350 to 700r4(I'm not good at that search stuff). Do any driveshafts fit or is a cut and paste job? Thx
Edit: I would need to get a 27 spline 700r4 yoke for 1350 u-joints..?? verify? -Chris |
10-17-2013, 01:19 PM | #2 |
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Location: kingman az
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Re: Sm465 to 700r4 driveshaft
I belive a drive line from a bb/400 will work I think the 400 and the 700 is about the same length. It has been awhile since I messed with a auto so I maybe wrong.
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1976 k20, 350 built, 44/14 axles 1968 c10 6.5 turbo diesel,t5 trans 1977 gmc c3500 dually, crew, 4-53t, 5&3 trans http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=591188 |
10-17-2013, 01:28 PM | #3 |
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Re: Sm465 to 700r4 driveshaft
If go onto one of the drive shaft builders web site, like Inland Empire Driveline for instance, they have a form that is easy to use so you can find the right length drive shaft for your specific application. It's also easy to pick out the right yokes and u-joints. The reason I used Inland is they have a good tutorial on measuring for the right size shaft.
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1972 C10 SWB, Air, PS, PB, 350/350THM. Second owner. 1965 Corvette roadster, 44K miles, 327/365 SHP, 4 speed, side exhaust, knockoffs, teak, second owner (bought in 1970), Have ALL numbers matching components. My frame off restoration thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556703 |
10-17-2013, 01:30 PM | #4 |
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Location: Modesto, CA
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Re: Sm465 to 700r4 driveshaft
I can't speak for everyone, but rarely is it a straight swap. Honestly you won't know for your particular truck until you get the tranny in place. To get close you need to measure both transmissions end to end. The difference would be your rough estimate for accuracy. You seem to have everything except for a lockup kit. Tv made easy, B&M and others have internal or external kits depending on what you prefer. I read about others using a high stall to substitute for the lockup, though I personally have no information on how that works. Good luck, and welcome!
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10-17-2013, 04:35 PM | #5 | |
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Re: Sm465 to 700r4 driveshaft
Quote:
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10-17-2013, 08:15 PM | #6 | |
Still plays with trucks
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 3,556
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Re: Sm465 to 700r4 driveshaft
Quote:
The driveshaft from a short tail shaft T-350 67-72 truck with the engine in the rear mount holes in the frame will work with the 700R4 / 4L60 when you put the engine into the forward mount holes in the frame. A 67-72 truck with the long tail shaft T-350 will be a straight swap as the length is the same as the 700R4 / 4L60. Another option is to find a long single piece driveshaft out of a square body or 92-99 Suburban with a 27-spline trans yoke. Have it shortened to fit your truck and fit with a conversion U-joint out back to mate up to your 1350 pinion yoke. Probably about the same money as getting a 1350 U-joint 27-spline trans yoke. I don't believe that was a factory combination so you are most likely stuck with an aftermarket only yoke in that combination. Everything with the 1350 stock that I can think of used a larger 30-spline trans yoke. Having your front driveshaft shortened and fit with a common 1330 U-joint yoke would probably be the cheapest way out. Easy to find a stock 27-spline to 1330 U-joint trans yoke.
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miSSed opportunity - ground up creation of an AWD 1994 454 SS that never was http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=795577 69 C10 shortbed stepside 400 small block - built like what a super sport truck could have been 69 K20 lwb TBI 350 4L60E NP208 14-bolt Dana-44 w/disc 68 Camaro SS / RS 500hp 439 inch roller cam big block 4L80E 79 Malibu TPI 350 4L60 w/ Z28 steering & sway bars |
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11-02-2013, 08:38 PM | #7 |
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Location: Columbiaville Michigan
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Re: Sm465 to 700r4 driveshaft
i did this same swap a year ago. not too difficult, if ive read right, your almost there. i dont think anyone mentioned if you have coil or leaf springs. i have coil springs. i kept the original driveshaft and just had it shortened and a mismatch ujoint to get the yoke to fit. if you go to a 1 piece shaft, you will likely have to cut the hole in the crossmember larger. i was afraid to do that because my trailing arms connect to it, thought it would weaken my friend has same truck with same trans setup except leaf springs and he just cut the hole in the cross member larger so the driveshaft would clear
just my 0.02
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