is my hyd clutch stock?

[61K10]

my hyd slave cyl mounts to a block that bolts to the bell-housing. are 60-62 throw-out bearing arms a different length than mechanical arms? my arm is 12" long. without the block it puts the rod to arm at an angle.

[60-66]

Question, are you using a V8 and V8 bellhousing or is it all 6 cylinder stuff. ? I have both setups here in 60 and 61 K10s I can check for you

[61K10]

60-66----------yes v8 and v8 bell. it's not going to be a problem, was just wondering. thanks for going to ck.

[60-66]

Heres a factory stock setup on a 60 V8 4x4 . Not sure why you have the bracket ? Maybe to move it to the outer position on the fork ? Hope this helps.

[61K10]

60-66----looks like my arm is 1/2" longer at 13" (why the block was used) 63-66 arms shorter? anyway thanks for taking the time to take the pics.

[jtrichard]

another reason for the spacer block could have been or is starter clearance? some one may have had a different starter on it at one time? just thinking out loud

[padresag]

that shouldn't have anything to do with it. someone may have put a replacement slave on there and it perhaps didn't mount the same
ron

[1963c-10]

I have a spare clutch fork at home, I can measure it for you...if its longer than yours you can have it for shipping.

I converted to a hydraulic clutch from mechanical, so no use for it. The hydraulic clutch fork with my set up was much larger than the 1"fork that was stock

[61K10]

ok guys---------my arm is 11-1/2" not 12" (my mistake) also my bell build date is may of 72. (new from gm?) truck was i6 so 235 with the 6 bell org. V8 was added later--sm420 is org 61 dated. slave is new (old slave fit the same) here some pics with block and without block on bell. (disregard first pics as slave plunger was not pushed in) also org had B&Beck clutch, now diafram.

[60-66]

Its your slave cylinder. Its not cast the same as a factory cylinder I posted above. You can see the mounting ears are thicker pushing the cylinder further away from the bellhousing. The stock one, the round part of the cylinder actually fits IN the recess of the bellhousing . Yours is offset away from the bellhousing .

[60-66]

Heres a New old stock slave cylinder. Notice the difference in offset

[j.kirn]

60-66 do you have any pics of your 60 4by you can share

[60-66]

It's in a million pieces at the moment and I did not think to take any before hand . One is a plain Jane short bed fleetside 4x4 . The other is a 60 short fleetside custom big window factory black and white painted truck. I disassembled both 2 years ago. Chassis are both still together . Too many interruptions to stay focused on these projects lately .

[j.kirn]

Originally Posted by 60-66

It's in a million pieces at the moment and I did not think to take any before hand . One is a plain Jane short bed fleetside 4x4 . The other is a 60 short fleetside custom big window factory black and white painted truck. I disassembled both 2 years ago. Chassis are both still together . Too many interruptions to stay focused on these projects lately .

ok thanks ,was wanting to c the throttle cable where it passes through firewall from both sides

[60-66]

If that's the same as a 2 wheel drive I have a low mile 60 with that all in place with a six cylinder

[60-66]

The first one is a green 1960 C30 V8 truck, then a light blue 60 short fleetside 6 cyl.

[jtrichard]

I don't know how we got on throttle linkage BUT BACK to the clutch problem if you have enough throw with the rod in the outer hole in the fork i would get rid of the plate (as it pushes the cylinder to far out) get longer grade 5 bolts and stack sae flat washers under it till she lines up ... if you don't like that take it to someone that has a mill and machine the ears down till they are about 1/4" lower than the side of the cylinder

[j.kirn]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

I don't know how we got on throttle linkage BUT BACK to the clutch problem if you have enough throw with the rod in the outer hole in the fork i would get rid of the plate (as it pushes the cylinder to far out) get longer grade 5 bolts and stack sae flat washers under it till she lines up ... if you don't like that take it to someone that has a mill and machine the ears down till they are about 1/4" lower than the side of the cylinder

oh that would work but I would get the correct 1, thanks for the pics 60-66 I c what I am missing now

[61K10]

here's what came off, looks like the one 60-66 posted a pic of. (might be a little different) new slave is what they sell for 60-62. I think i will use washers or make a new plate. this setup has been working for many a year and was still working when i took it apart. something is goofy here for sure.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by 61K10

here's what came off, looks like the one 60-66 posted a pic of. (might be a little different) new slave is what they sell for 60-62. I think i will use washers or make a new plate. this setup has been working for many a year and was still working when i took it apart. something is goofy here for sure.

why not take the old one apart and see if it is clean enough to rebuild. if it is not pitted to bad and you can clean it up with a hone your away to the races. you should be able to get a kit for that size; at least a new rubber. it is either a 1" or 1 1/8 " I believe
ron

[61K10]

well this is how it going to be (like JT said) the rod was in the out-board position before and the clutch worked just fine hyd wise. thanks everybody for your info.

[jtrichard]

now that looks a whole lot better .... you should have at least 1/2" to 5/8" of bolt in the bell housing just saying that because it looks like the old bolts