97 Z71 driver/project build

[country29]

Alrite my 1st build/project thread and 1st time uploading pics. This will probably be updated every few weeks, as time and budget allows, I'm a poor diesel mechanic by trade and love bowties. Anyway, bought this 97 z71 x-cab, from 2nd owner, 183k, loaded with power everything, leather, 3.73"s, 4L60E, 5.7 vortec, back in January for, drumroll please....$1500, drove it home 60 miles and parked it to get it road ready, it needed a few things, brake lights didn't work, ign cylinder wore out, good cleaning, tires, windshield, radiator leaking, well 2 weeks after I bought it, lost my job on Friday it got below freezing on sunday and stayed that way till Wednesday, and wed afternoon while job hunting I remembered it only had water in it! so when it thawed out Thursday I found the block cracked. I was sick for days and no one to blame but myself. So finally having a little, and I mean little extra money I pulled the engine out, stripped it down, tried to get it nickel welded and it kept cracking across the center on cool down so its a boat anchor, found a core long block for $100, got it stripped down and sent to machine shop, got it back Friday, vatted, mag'd, std bore honed, new cam bearings and freeze plugs. So now its sitting in the garage waiting to order my re-ring kit this week, hopefully, and put it back together. This will be my daily driver, so I will be doing mostly upgrade and refurb work to it to make it like new. Any Q's or suggestions I'm all ears, been lurking here for awhile and taken in a lot of knowledge as far as the FI stuff goes, I'm an old/young carb guy when it comes to gm's as far as deviating away from stock. Thanks for your input and support.

[country29]

I figured while I was building the engine I might as well make it look good. Going with chevy orange/red block, heads, gloss black valve covers, oil pan, timing cover, pulleys and possibly lower intake, not sure on the intake yet. going back with original pistons, rods, crank, cam and heads, re ring kit with all new bearings and gaskets, new oil pump/ timing set/distributor/plugs/wires/ freshen the heads, just don't have the money to put into a new cam and pcm tune right now like I want, so just going to get it running and fix all the little stuff then get a cam and tune for it down the road. looking to make a good low end torque, and decent fuel mileage daily driver.

[75ChevyGuy]

While you have everything apart you should upgrade the fuel sysytem. I remember reading a little while ago about a post from speedygonzales that he swapped out his injectors in the intake for a different set. I guess it changes the way the fuel gets injected into the cylinders and is far better for perforamnce. I'll have to see if I can find his post and link it here.

[country29]

Originally Posted by 75ChevyGuy

While you have everything apart you should upgrade the fuel sysytem. I remember reading a little while ago about a post from speedygonzales that he swapped out his injectors in the intake for a different set. I guess it changes the way the fuel gets injected into the cylinders and is far better for perforamnce. I'll have to see if I can find his post and link it here.

yea, I have been following it and the upgrade mpfi setup. I took my upper intake apart and inspected it, the fuel press regulator is bad and I'm suspecting was the cause of my hard to start when hot, and rich smell, so I am going to replace the fpr, all my spiders are good and not leaking, now, and will upgrade the spider assy at a later date. Thanks for the post, keep them coming.

[country29]

well since I last posted I got my parts ordered for the re-ring/rebuild, ended up ordering all the parts from rockauto, I ordered rings, rod/main bearings by dnj products from RA, $97 with shipping, ordered on a sunday, came from Denver, got to my house in east AR priority mail on Thursday, I got those put in over the weekend. Then I ordered head gasket set, oil pan gasket set, all felpro, cloyes timing set, dorman timing cover, stant t-stat, standard knock sendor and fuel press regulator, upper/lower dayco radiator hoses, all for $210 including shipping, all those came from CA ordered on Wednesday they got here today, can't complain about RA and there shipping times, and on both orders I had a shipping confirmation within 1 hour of placing order and a tracking # within 12 hours. Hopefully I will have it together this weekend and be ready to put it in by the next weekend. Tried to upload some pics but they were too big and I couldn't get them small enuff, will try later.

[country29]

alright, finally got it built, gotta pick up a flexplate, oil, coolant, radiator and drop it in this weekend. just figured I would give ya'll a little eye candy, will post more pics when I get it in. Including having to buy another engine, machine work, all parts I have bought and still have to pick up, except for the radiator, I have right at $700 in it, engine was $100, machine work, cam bearings, freeze pugs $160, the rest is parts from rockauto.

[country29]

this is mostly the look I am going after when I get finished with it, any ideas, suggestions or comments are welcome, this is my 1st build/project/driver newer than a '81.

[country29]

It finally quit raining about 1 so I got started goin back together. Got it off the engine stand, put new flexplate on and set her in, surprisingly it went in pretty easy and got the trans lined up easy too. I got some stuff back on, got mad at the distributor cause it was a tooth off, and couldn't find a long enough screwdriver to turn the oil pump shaft so I moved on to putting other things on. Got to put starter, flexplate cover and oil cooler on the bottom, get distributor set, plug wires ran, water pump, belt and secure wiring. After that it will be on hold till I get paid again to get the radiator and get that buttoned up, then I will run it and hope it runs! heres a couple quick pics.

[country29]

https://www.facebook.com/video/embed...51600055806381
its alive, gotta finish bolting pipes to manifolds, change oil, topoff trans and drive it easy for a few hundred miles then we shall see what happens, but at least its running and isn't pouring fluids, YAY! lol

[country29]

alrighty then, I got it going, got the new radiator put in, flushed coolant system, brake lights weren't working when I bought it so finally got to put a brake light switch in and bam, I have brake lights! lol still haven't put many miles on it yet but looking to put some on this weekend after I change oil from break in oil and get the exhaust pipes tightened up to manifolds. so we are making progress, slowly but surely!

[bufmatmuslepants]

Love the engine rebuild, did you have a hookup on the machine work or is that a standard price?

[country29]

that's standard price, they supplied freeze plugs and cam bearings, hot tank'd, mag'd, cylinders de-glazed/honed and decks checked, $166 and some change, dropped it off on Friday afternoon they called me Wednesday afternoon, they stay busy with all kinds of stuff they even do diesel head work. the shop is old, dirty, rundown, not in a good neighborhood, and they have been in business for over 40 years but they turnout some great work.

[country29]

well, I put about 400 miles on it this week, had to put a new starter on it, the old 1 was heat soaking too bad so after you warmed the engine up and shut it off, then try to fire it right back up, it wouldn't engage, so got that fixed. charged a/c up and it lasted about 4 days, looks like center seal on compressor is leaking, so got to get a compressor. and a small oil leak on oil pan gasket where it seals to timing cover on the front, don't know why, I used the good fel-pro blue oil pan gasket, but it only leaves about a quarter size spot after its hot and you shut it off, so will have to check that out next oil change. so far it is averaging about 16-17 mpg, with the stock 3.73's, so I am happy so far, just a few little things to work on.

[country29]

well, I've put about 1300 miles on it, still averaging 16.5-17mpg, runs good, drives good, got my head unit put in today so I can listen to my cd's, got some door speakers coming in this week to put in, get a windsheild put in hopefully this week. Will try to get some pics of it on here before the weekend is over, so far so good.

[country29]

heres a pic parked at work, I've put about 2000 miles on it and so far, so good. Had to fix a heater hose leak yesterday, gonna have to change those before winter. Also got some new tires put on and man does it ride better, between the old LT285/75/16 buckshots sitting while I was rebuilding the engine and being low on tread, man these new tires made a world of difference. I went down a size, back to factory, P265/75/16 firestone destination A/T, since most of my driving will be on road and I drive 75-80 miles a day roundtrip to work I went with an A/T versus M/T $640 mounted/balanced, TN tax, out the door. It was the best deal going and these tires usually see 40K or more miles, I use to work for firestone. still averaging 16-17mpg, hopefully with the new, lighter tires and the exhaust upgrade I plan on doing in a few weeks, I hope to see 17-17.5mpg.

[clovisb31]

This is a great thread and I have a question.

You didn't have to pull the tranny and transfer case out before pulling the motor? I noticed in the first photo the tranny is still in there. I may be doing the engine pull on my truck and I sure dont want to pull the transfer case and transmission if you don't have to!

Anybody else know? This would mean the difference between me doing the project and having to pay somebody to do it.

Thanks guys,
Shane in the "Peoples republic of Kalifornia".

[country29]

If you know your trans is good and your not doing anything to it, just put a floorjack under the pan with a 2x6 or something to support it and pull the bellhousing bolts out, then pull engine with cherrypicker while someone jacks trans up until you can slide engine forward and separate them, I also left rear trans crossmember in place. Hope this helps, I had.mine out in about 3-4 hours, but i'm a mechanic by trade so some things come easier with experience!
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[Mickeymotormount]

As Clovis stated, you can leave the trans and transfer case in provided you know it's in good working order. Just be sure to remove the torque converter to ring gear bolts before undoing the bell housing bolts. Once the torque converter bolts are out, you can usually slide the converter back about a 1/4 inch and leave it there. Then you can take out the bell housing bolts. As Clovis said, be sure to have a floor jack with a piece of plywood under the pan(so pan doesn't get dented).

[country29]

well, I have put about 3400 miles on it and so far so good. since putting the stock size tires on it and exhaust upgrade, I have been averaging 17.4-17.8mpg, 75 miles round trip daily, mostly highway and interstate. About my exhaust upgrade, I put 2, 2" in/out flowtech 18" glasspacks on it with turndowns, it sounds ok but not quite what I'm looking for, It is tight under there with the dual pipes, I did some measuring but I think for a flowmaster sized/turbo style muffler to work I would have to get center in/out and those mufflers are kinda pricey, anyone use the dual in/out mufflers from flowmaster or thrush on this body style? any suggestions?

[country29]

quick update, I have put about 4200 miles on it and maybe the engine is loosening up and breaking in, last few tanks mpg has been 17.8-18.2, I'm tickled and I still haven't gotten an ecm from blackbear yet! hoping to pick up a few tenths more from that and a little more pep. still need to get some pics on here, got a receiver hitch tonight hopefully get it put on this weekend and maybe get it cleaned up.

[TheBlueBomber]

Keep up the good work! Ive got true duals with flowmaster 40s no cats. I've heard good things from black bear. My feeling is I am not going to go with a tune until I've added some bolt ons for power.

Love truck.

[TheBlueBomber]

Correction- Love THE truck lol. How much are you going to lift it? I have keys and blocks for short term lift. I reccomend not going that route. Keys make it ride rough for the lift you want and blocks can shift/crack. My buddy crawled under his truck 2 weeks ago and found his u bolts were hand loose and his axle was swaying while driving home.

[country29]

thanks. I haven't made up my mind yet on the lift, I am now leaning more toward just cranking the stock keys a little to level it out and leave it alone, I was thinking about 1-1.5" blocks in the rear and cranking the stock keys but we will see. kind of put anything big on hold till after the holidays, but I may try to sneak in a hid kit and maybe some new headlights, its dark through the country on my last 20 miles home from work and have been seeing a few deer crossing the road lately, might put a set of foglights on it too but still debating, really want the hid's 1st.

[country29]

also bluebomber which inlet/outlet configuration did you use on your 40's, did you turn them horizontal side by side or use the dual in/out? was doing some measuring but looks like it will be snug to put 2 in there, pics would be nice! not necessary, but shoot maybe we can kick some ideas around! lol

[TheBlueBomber]

Oh yea two is snug in there but is manageable. Thats what I have. I've got 8k xenon HID's in my headlights and bright lights. I also have them hooked up to a relay that allows all 4 to come on. I've got a push bar and I plan on mounting some hella lights but only after a retro fit them with 8k HID's. I'll try and get some pictures.