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Old 11-18-2013, 08:08 PM   #1
magwakeenercew2jh
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Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

Stopped with the woman for lunch Luckily, she was in the car. Battery was dead in the truck in front of the Mexican restaurant.

Brand new windshield trim and gasket..."Happy" turns into a AAA call.

He fired it right up with a little magic box. As I drove the 35 miles up the hill, I was trying to diagnose. I noticed the radio started turning
on and off and it seemed like some tests with the a/c proved that the juice generated was not keeping up with the draw....

Turning everything off, I came home, but when I stomped on it, it stuttered in an electronic way. A small backfire. Smoothing out the RPM to
the 2000 range it mellowed out and I got home.

The new Bosch wouldn't turn her over after I parked. Fan was slow and I had about 9v at the poles.

Battery charger up to 12.5. Started up and a check at the poles showed 11.8 while running. No increase when increasing the RPM. Grounded
the multimeter and poked the hot on the back of the Alt. 11.7...11.8. No higher when increasing RPMs.

Pulled the Alt. I figure it's time. But I'm not sure.

When I checked the connections, The connector with one brown wire from the Alt with one blade goes into the 2 wire connector with a blue and a
white wire coming out which runs down to what I'm calling the Voltage regulator Bypass...But the voltage regulator is really externally eliminated.

Question 1:

Looking at the connector at the white side of the blue and white connections, it looks funky. Like some of the white "receiver" has possibly corroded.
Again, I'm not sure. The harness is new, so maybe the white and blue wires connect deeper inside that plastic housing with the one blade coming out
of the brown wire from the Alt.

Is it funky?

Question 2:

What's a good replacement Alt? I'm pretty sure it's toast. Still operates smoothly. But no increase in voltage to the battery, or even at it's own hot connectors
while spinning at 2000 to 3500 RPM? Unless that connection is a likely suspect, it seems like time. I've never replaced it. It came with the serpentine system.

Any thoughts or tips?
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:20 PM   #2
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

take it have it tested, i would just get the old one rebuilt instead of turning it in for a crappy one at the store, i have had so many issues with auto zone starters and alts, i quit buying them and found a local place that rebuild starters and Alts
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:58 PM   #3
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

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Originally Posted by bigmac73 View Post
take it have it tested, i would just get the old one rebuilt instead of turning it in for a crappy one at the store, i have had so many issues with auto zone starters and alts, i quit buying them and found a local place that rebuild starters and Alts
Okay. Thanks. I'll check for a local re-winder/re-builder.

But could someone identify the alt for me so I know what I have. There are no markings I can find on it except the "Delco-Remy" and a "73" embossed on the case.

Also, as much as I check out those blue and white wires on the 67-72 wiring chart, I can't figure out what they do once they hit the v. regulator delete. And if the connection to the 1-wire is somehow screwed up.

Thanks, everyone.
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:30 AM   #4
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

Found it.

Delco Remy 10463049. 105 amp.
Fits a bunch of serp GM stuff.

Still trying to figure out the blue/white wiring.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:21 AM   #5
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

The regulator bypass jumps the brown wire to the white wire and the red wire to the blue wire.
The white wire goes to the alternator plug and connects to the R terminal on the alternator and the blue wire connects to the F terminal on the alternator which you don't show as having in the adapter with the brown wire.
The alternator must be internally regulated so the terminals would be labeled 1 and 2
where 1 is the brown wire and 2 is the blue wire.
Certain years of the alternator look like internal regulated but are still external. The year you have might be one of those. Pull the plug off and check the connectors inside. If they look like this I I it is externally regulated and needs the external regulator, if they look like this -- -- then it is internally regulated .

OK, going back and looking at the alternator and thinking about what you have said. I think you have a newer CS style alternator that came after the SI series internally regulated alternators. They started in the late eighties and were completely different.

Look for the letters P L I S on the plug into the alternator. Some of them required that the red/blue wire plugged into the S terminal and the brown/white wire plugged into the L terminal. Others only needed to have the brown wire plugged into the L terminal and the voltage sensing was done internally. The corrosion on the white wire might explain why the alternator quit charging or the alternator went Tango Uniform on you.


Here are some pictures to help.

Name:  Alternator Pinout.jpg
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Name:  130sbp1.jpg
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Name:  cs130dplug.jpg
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Name:  GmAlternatorIdentification.jpg
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:34 AM   #6
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

I like powermaster for alternators , this is a good rear on electric systems

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:44 AM   #7
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet View Post

OK, going back and looking at the alternator and thinking about what you have said. I think you have a newer CS style alternator that came after the SI series internally regulated alternators.
They started in the late eighties and were completely different.

Look for the letters P L I S on the plug into the alternator. Some of them required that the red/blue wire plugged into the S terminal and the brown/white wire plugged into the L terminal.
Others only needed to have the brown wire plugged into the L terminal and the voltage sensing was done internally. The corrosion on the white wire might explain why the alternator quit
charging or the alternator went Tango Uniform on you.
Right as usual VV. I can't thank you enough for this. It's crazy what keeps me rolling around on the pillow these days. Silly, really.

Using your info, I see it's a CS130. The markings, as you suggested, are on the plug in the case (as shown) and the adapter to one wire (as shown) connects at the "F" pin.

Of course, I have no idea of what goes on inside the one-wire adapter, except that it comes out as one brown wire that, in turn, snaps into to the next connector that carries the
blue and white wires and is in question.

All four of the wires Bl, W, R and Bn run from there into another Mystery Connection, and seemingly terminate there, instead of into the Voltage Regulator. Again, I have no idea
of what is happening inside there. Then, everything disappears into the depths of that part of the harness next post pic). I'll ass-u-me that the red wire is the same that runs over
to the "hot-block" on next to the battery.

I'll do some heavy reading today. Thanks to 67 Chevelle...(Thanks, much, for that too). That may tell me as much as I can absorb.

But my quandry still is the portion of the puzzle about where the white and blue wires connect to the brown one-wire from the Alt. I DOES look like there's some white corrosion (next post pic)
...Unlikely, but it may be some kind of residual of grease or ???? From looking into the connector there, it's clear that the blade from the brown wire connects to the blue, but I see nothing from
the white except this small amount of fuzz. Could that be the remnants of a blade? Not that it makes a big difference, but the whole harness is less than 400 miles old. And has not been exposed
to water or other elements. I guess the real question, that may be answered by 67 Chevelle's reading list, is, are both blue and white wires supposed to make contact with the brown one-wire?
If so, I'll make sure they do.

And, bigmac, I ordered a new alternator. I couldn't find anyone reputable locally that did the rehab work on these, so I'm taking my chance on a new one.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:47 AM   #8
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

Add'l pics related to the last post.

I really appreciate the help.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:06 PM   #9
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

Well now that we know what alternator you have it will be easy to wire the new one correctly.

The external regulator plug in the first picture is all you need to convert to the CS alternator . You simply run the brown wire to the L plug on the CS alternator and the red wire will run to the S terminal. The brown wire which is converted to the white wire in the adapter now goes to the L terminal.
I see you stated that the adapter plug is connected to the blue wire on the old external regulator plug. Was that a mis print or does it actually plug into the blue wire.
Here's how you tell. The correct wire will have 12 volts on it with the key on and nothing with the key off. That is the wire that goes to the L terminal on the CS alternator. The other wire will have 12 volts on it at all times because it is the sensor wire which is connected to the battery power. I would connect it to the S terminal on the CS alternator if you have a pin in the plug in the alternator.

Now here's the rub. The CS alternator requires at least a 35 ohm one watt resistor in the brown wire to protect the diodes in the alternator. This is well documented in all the conversions and The website below shows it as well as the diagram posted. Painless wiring recommends using an 85 ohm 5 watt resistor but the guy in the website used a smaller wattage and a higher ohm resistor which worked for him. If you don't have the extra resistor in the brown wire, that might explain the failure of the alternator.

Here's the website.........http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/zma...ternator01.htm


Here's how I do it. This is for the SI series which does not need the resistor, the only difference is you'll need to add the resistor in the brown wire from the firewall.

Name:  ammetershuntCS130.jpg
Views: 1858
Size:  31.4 KB

This is for the CS wiring
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:08 PM   #10
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

Just in case anyone was following this, after reading 67 Chevelle's data, "listening" carefully to what VetteVet wrote, and making various trips out to the truck to verify
what age does not allow me to remember, I decided to call M & H, whose wiring harnesses I use (562-926-9562 just in case you want to "talk" to someone about one of their harnesses),

Here's what the cool tech said after I was as inarticulate as always:

"Oh, sounds you're converting from an externally regulated to an internally regulated alternator."

I said, "Yes, that's what I did.", "And it worked perfectly well for 400 miles."

I went on, "But there doesn't seem to be a connection to the white wire where it comes off the one-wire adapter from the alternator." "It only looks like it connects to the blue one before
it goes into the Voltage Regulator Delete rubber thingy" (not sure if "thingy" is a proper technical term).

He said, "Oh." "It also sounds like you have a CS style Alternator." "The white wire is there only to be hooked up if you use an SI type of alternator."

Problem solved. Love those guys.
And more thanks you you all, too.
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Last edited by magwakeenercew2jh; 11-19-2013 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:14 PM   #11
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

My post came in just before yours did.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:17 PM   #12
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet View Post
Well now that we know what alternator you have it will be easy to wire the new one correctly.

The external regulator plug in the first picture is all you need to convert to the CS alternator . You simply run the brown wire to the L plug on the
CS alternator and the red wire will run to the S terminal.
The brown wire which is converted to the white wire in the adapter now goes to the L terminal.
I see you stated that the adapter plug is connected to the blue wire on the old external regulator plug.
Was that a mis print or does it actually plug into the blue wire.


Now here's the rub. The CS alternator requires at least a 35 ohm one watt resistor in the brown wire to protect the diodes in the alternator. This is well documented in
all the conversions and The website below shows it as well as the diagram posted. Painless wiring recommends using an 85 ohm 5 watt resistor but the guy in the website
used a smaller wattage and a higher ohm resistor which worked for him. If you don't have the extra resistor in the brown wire, that might explain the failure of the alternator.

Here's the website.........http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/zma...ternator01.htm

Here's how I do it. This is for the SI series which does not need the resistor, the only difference is you'll need to add the resistor in the brown wire from the firewall.
You got it, soup to nuts, VV.

I'll look for the resistor in M & H's harness. If it's not there, I'll know something cool.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:19 PM   #13
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Re: Alt and One Wire Failure Pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet View Post
My post came in just before yours did.
Yeah. Hahahaha!!!

But it's full of vital info.

Hard to believe what you have stashed upstairs, VV.
I'm in awe.
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