1964 c10 pickup(need help)

[pooks64]

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Hello, I have a 1964 c10 chevy pickup that I would like to start working on.
But, I am new at this and not sure what to do. I would like to update my truck with a good rearend and front suspension. I would perfer to use bolt on methods. My budget is limited but, I would like a good riding truck. Maybe from a 70s or 80's truck are what ever method works best. Please help!!!!!

What's a good way to upgrade my 64 chevy?

Any suggestions will be very welcome.

[Fred T]

The limited budget is the killer, but there are ways. On the front end, get a crossmember from a 73-83. To install you need to drill some new bolt holes.

Rears are also available at local yards. Measure the distance between the drum faces ( where the wheels bolt on) so you get the right width. Any 2wd from 71 on will be 5 bolt lugs, which will match the front crossmember. I'm assuming your 64 has coil springs on the rear, and the 73 and on rears will have leaf springs. This will mean either converting to leaf or having the correct spring mounts welded on. A good junkyard can help a lot here, and should be able to tell you what gear ratios are available. Shoot for something in the 3.42 to 3.07 range for a driver, depending on your engine and tire size.

[Woogeroo]

What is it you are wanting to do to your truck?

Does it run now?

-W

[pooks64]

Originally Posted by Woogeroo

What is it you are wanting to do to your truck?

Does it run now?

-W

I would like to update the front and rear suspension. For a good ride(maybe lond distance)

[pooks64]

I would like to update the front and rear suspension for a better ride. I was thinking of going with a 1972 suspension package. But not sure what will fit or whats the best way to go.

[pooks64]

Originally Posted by Fred T

The limited budget is the killer, but there are ways. On the front end, get a crossmember from a 73-83. To install you need to drill some new bolt holes.

Rears are also available at local yards. Measure the distance between the drum faces ( where the wheels bolt on) so you get the right width. Any 2wd from 71 on will be 5 bolt lugs, which will match the front crossmember. I'm assuming your 64 has coil springs on the rear, and the 73 and on rears will have leaf springs. This will mean either converting to leaf or having the correct spring mounts welded on. A good junkyard can help a lot here, and should be able to tell you what gear ratios are available. Shoot for something in the 3.42 to 3.07 range for a driver, depending on your engine and tire size.

Thank's for the info

[chevy283]

for the rear your could have a machine shop redrill the axles to a 5.

[62ChevyStep]

I agree with all who have already posted.

Here is my .02 worth

Alot depends on what end result you want to accomplish, then again, a well thought out plan, executed with room for growth and/or easy adjustments and changes/upgrades in the future is advantagous. Plan for the big picture, even though it does not have to all happen right now. Most Bang for the Buck!

During the current phase of the build process of my 62' this was all taken into consideration, a 73-87 front X-Member(disk brakes, brake booster/master cylinder, proportioning valve, powersteering assembly, abundant supply of used parts, and remanufactured and custom aftermarket is available and will be for years as the 73-87 reach true classic status, 25 years or older).

Yes you can purchase 5 lug upgrades, rotors and axles but for the same amount of money you probabley can find a good donor and pull the X-member, powersteering, rearend etc. Finding a good 10 or 12 bolt rearend and swapping it out is not too difficult, even for an over 40, computer geek like me.

I currently have a 10 bolt chevy rear end which is being swapped out this week for a 71-72 12 bolt 3.73 rear end I found in a wrecking yard.

I picked up a good 700R4 out of a totaled 92' chevy Suburban for $100 complete if I pulled it, that will replace the TH350 currently installed so I have the Overdrive for the highway cruising speeds.

I have tried to scrounged the wrecking yards as much as possible for the big items (rearends, X-members, Transmissions, engines,etc. Pull them myself to save money, clean, prep and paint as much as I can myself and take to the experts, the welding, rebuilding, reconditioning etc. as money and time permits.

Every decision has been thought out and re-thought out, well planned and if I am not sure, go to forums like this where others have succeeded and failed ahead of me to lend advice and help save me time and money.

I chose not to go back to or keep it original as I wanted all the comforts, power and performance of todays technology but with the classic lines and ol' school grace of yesteryear, I love the Retro-Custom look.

Best of Luck on your build, Many experts on this Forum as well as others.

[JRB]

You know the suspention in those old trucks realy are not bad. The thing that usually makes the truck uncomfortable is the gear in the differential. My 64 has a 4.10/1 ratio in the back and it will rattle your teeth out at 60 miles an hour going down the road. I have found that if you have Brakes and the motor isnt reving 4000 at 60 it can be fairly comfortable. Your looking at about $600 to have a 3.08/1 installed in the differential and probably $250 to $500 to do a Junkyard swap for disc brakes in the front. Does your truck have an electronic ignition? Does your truck have a Internal regulator alternator? How is the wiring? Is there much slop in the steering? Your going to find that budget and these old truck exspecially if your going to drive it long distance isnt going to work. For around town get from point A to Point B they are great and look even better. Just dont get out in the middle of Montana and break down. Good luck with your project.
JRB

[Demmit_Hemmit's 65]

I agree with 62chevystep.................you should start with a solid plan.......................most of us are on a limited budget but with time you can have a great truck......................my suburban was a 10 year project........................and it's still not done....................it's all therapy to me ......................good luck and don't forget to post us some pictures...................................hemmit

[bpmcgee]

Help me understand something here guys -- the '64 has independent front suspension and rear trailing arms. The 72 will have -- independent front suspension and rear trailing arms.

The suspensions are just about identical aren't they? I think by 64 they've even switched to the press-in ball joints. I'm not sure what would be gained in doing this suspension swap IN TERMS OF RIDE COMFORT, which is his stated criteria.

I'm aware that you get front disc brakes and a lower rear end, but couldn't you just get a front brake kit and ring an pinion gears? That's going to run a lot less than trying to aquire and retro a whole suspension, I think.

Correct me please, if I'm mistaken,

Brian

[Demmit_Hemmit's 65]

when i did my changeover i did it because i wanted to change from 6-lug to 5-lug.................you have more wheel options going 5-lug..............plus they are a bit cheaper...............i went with the origional front end but added dropped spindles for a 71 chevy...........to do this i had to replace the ball joints(upper and lower) with 71 ball joints..........i believe that you probably will need to replace these anyway not only for safety but for the ride...................the rear end i replaced with a 71 gmc truck rear that had 307 gears in it...............the 71 rear is a bolt in with no modifications needed..............the only difference is the 71 rear is about an inch wider than the 65....................i ended up trading my rear end for the 71 plus $100.00....................all together it probably cost me somewhere in the neighborhood of $700.00 to do the swap..............all of the ball joints,calipers,rotors,bearings and brake lines are readily available from your local parts store................and at reasonable prices.............good luck with your conversion.......................HEMMIT

[SIR]

.....this is the stuff you will need.."72" c-10 parts..

[pooks64]

Is it possible to have the rearend rebuilt to what you want and just get a disc brake conversion kit for the front? And have a nice ride at 60mph

[bpmcgee]

Pooks,

Yes, you can get the ring and pinion in the rear changed to what you'd find in a later truck (like 3.08:1 or 3.07:1, I forget which). There are lots of people selling disc brake conversion kits for your front end, and, since the suspensions are almost the same design, will be pretty comparable.

Brian

[JRB]

Just a thought on the brakes. I have driven these trucks with a power assist (Vacuum Booster) 4 wheel drum brake and you would be surprised at how well these systems work. The trick is to have a tight system, new brake cylinders with no leaks. You may just find that because of your budjet that this may be the best way to go. I did recently do a Junkyard Disc brake upgrade to my 69 short step and it cost me about $300 to do so that is an option. I used the spindles and everything out from a 88-94 Light 3/4 ton truck or van to do the upgrade and it has 6 lug rotors. Just an Idea. Go to the FAQ forum and see if there is some info on a cheap disc brake conversion for your truck.
JRB

[Shorty Cox]

I have to agree with bpmegee, If "comfort of ride" is all you are seeking, what is wrong with the stock set up. My '64 has been riding comfortable for 42 years on her stock set up. I've never had to find other wheels, the stock wheels are still used. I also agree, that if one is going to do a project, one needs a longterm plan. But, if all you want is a driver, and not a show truck, nothing is wrong with the stock set up. You will save a bundle.

[oldschoolnewlook]

PLEASE HELP ME ALSO...

I'm New as well to the whole rebuild side of this. but i jumped in head first.
I have a 72 C10 i have been restoring for 5 years at home in my spare time
(i have none ) How ever i also have acquired a 64 C10 i was thinking about taking what i have already purchased from CCP disk brake with slotted rotor set from my Front & rear end of my 72 and up grade them to a willwood disk brake system. on the 72 it has the original style front suspension just new, but i want to lower it but i don't want the part to just collect dust.
Would this be possible to just bolt on to the 64 or am i looking at some work ahead of me?

[TJ's Chevy]

I think I know were you are coming from...alot of these stock trucks have a swaying issue on turns(Ware the back end feels like it is wobbling back and forth and the front end dives alittle). But I have to agree, the stock setup is perfectly fine. My truck rides almost as good as Mom's Toyota! Your easiest install would be Sway Bars. Get them for the front and rear, and it will ride like a car. You will have to drill some holes, but it will be a piece of cake. Classic Parts of America sell sway bars for the front and rear. It is $300 for the front and rear kit. They will make a difference. I would try that and you should be fine. It'll be alot cheaper and easier then trying to change ALL the suspension out. My 2 cents. T.J.

[Captainfab]

The disc brakes from your '72 will bolt onto your '64 just fine. You will have to change the ball joints to the '72 ball joints though.

Originally Posted by oldschoolnewlook

PLEASE HELP ME ALSO...

I'm New as well to the whole rebuild side of this. but i jumped in head first.
I have a 72 C10 i have been restoring for 5 years at home in my spare time
(i have none ) How ever i also have acquired a 64 C10 i was thinking about taking what i have already purchased from CCP disk brake with slotted rotor set from my Front & rear end of my 72 and up grade them to a willwood disk brake system. on the 72 it has the original style front suspension just new, but i want to lower it but i don't want the part to just collect dust.
Would this be possible to just bolt on to the 64 or am i looking at some work ahead of me?

[Raider Rudy]

Originally Posted by pooks64

I would like to update the front and rear suspension for a better ride. I was thinking of going with a 1972 suspension package. But not sure what will fit or whats the best way to go.

I used front end components from a 71-72 C-10 & it all bolted right up to my 64.

[Jurassic-1]

Another option would be install front and rear sway bars and change the upper and lower front arms to a 1973-1987 truck or 1990 Suburban front. It will bolt in and uses rubber bushings for a smoother ride. They are readily available and parts are cheap and you can do it with limited tools and experience.

[63burban]

Originally Posted by jrb

you know the suspention in those old trucks realy are not bad. The thing that usually makes the truck uncomfortable is the gear in the differential. My 64 has a 4.10/1 ratio in the back and it will rattle your teeth out at 60 miles an hour going down the road. I have found that if you have brakes and the motor isnt reving 4000 at 60 it can be fairly comfortable. Your looking at about $600 to have a 3.08/1 installed in the differential and probably $250 to $500 to do a junkyard swap for disc brakes in the front. Does your truck have an electronic ignition? Does your truck have a internal regulator alternator? How is the wiring? Is there much slop in the steering? Your going to find that budget and these old truck exspecially if your going to drive it long distance isnt going to work. For around town get from point a to point b they are great and look even better. Just dont get out in the middle of montana and break down. Good luck with your project.
Jrb

xx22

[jbon64]

Originally Posted by 62ChevyStep

Every decision has been thought out and re-thought out, well planned and if I am not sure, go to forums like this where others have succeeded and failed ahead of me to lend advice and help save me time and money.

i agree 100% . the internet is a wonderful thing. if you have any questions about ANYTHING ,someone somewhere has done it and posted pictures , videos or text about it.

[chevyrestoguy]

I used a '79 Suburban for a donor for my '64, and you'll be amazed at how much of that stuff is interchangeable. I like using the factory stuff, and with a little tweaking here and there, you can have a great riding truck for pretty cheap. And best of all, if you ever need parts for it in the future, all you have to do is go to the local parts store.

My build thread has detailed posts about how I did the front and rear suspensions.