rear disc brakes on 67

[67chevy1series]

on my 67 ive just finiashed my rear disc install and am now in the process of getting the brake working again. looking at different builds here on the site ive seen to members here who have bought there rear disc kits from a ebay member named tomsclassics as i did but ive noticed there rear calipers have the e brake spring and mount bracekt facing up and the cable comes over the axle and into the e brake mechanism, the way i have mine hooked up is the opposite from there my cable comes under the axle and the e brake mechanism points to the floor.. so first off how do i correct my calipers? should i take the e brake parts off and re mount them or do i need to swap the calipers from side to side?

next i noticed on one build that he has the same proportioning valve as me, he has 2 lines going from the master cylinder to the prop valve and then he has 3 lines coming out, 1 goes to the rear and one of the others should be for the front but whats the other line for? i have 1 line coming out for the front and down by the crossmember and then from there it T's into 2 lines for both front hoses on the calipers. gottatooz i hope you dont mind me using your pictures... here is his master cylinder/prop valve set up.

[67chevy1series]

and here is the way there rear calipers and e brakes are set up

[67chevy1series]

and here is how mine is set up

[71 super]

The first pictures owner ran two seperate lines to front brakes- they look like they did it to avoid a splitter at the crossmember as the factory did it. There is no need to do that. If you plan your routing you can really clean it up. See attached picture from my 68. I am also attaching picture of rear setup because you need to go back and re-clock the brackets, it will help with lines, bleeding and e brake operation. Harold

[71 super]

Sorry the pictures are too dark, I will try in am when have some light

[67chevy1series]

the other night i just replace4d and re routed all of the front brake lines to make it clean and nice and new and i ran them just like the factory using the T to go to both front calipers, so i dont have to redo that correct? i can keep that routing i hope... and as for the rear disc brackets there installed the same way as gottatooz has them in the pictures i posted there already positioned correctly its just the caliper itself.. do i need to put the left caliper on the right side and the right caliper on the left side? or do i remount the e brake mechanism in a different direction?

[71 super]

No reroute necessary if following stock route, you are good their it sounds like. As for caliper just make sure bleeder screws are at top or highest point or you will never get them bled. Biggest difference in mine was 3/16 lines rather than 1/4 to rear caliper they stop much better, also if you go to smaller bore m/c you can get a frimmer brake pedal, stock bore is 1-1/8 btw

[67chevy1series]

I have master cylinder from a 67 drum brake truck, are the full drum brake master cylinders smaller bore then the 71-72 disc/ drum master cylinder? And last but not least do I need to make all of my rear lines 3/16ths? Is just the lines that run on the axle?

[67chevy1series]

Ok I have successfully swapped calipers and bled the rear brakes again and now it's much better and so is the e brake cable fitment. But the only thing is that my pedal goes down probably 1" to 3/4 of an inch before any real braking starts to happen, I would like to eliminate that to me a nice firm pedal that you don't have to push down very much to use the brakes is ideal for me I would be fine with maybe 1/4 on an inch or 1/8 of an inch before any real braking happens, what could I do to achieve this?

[71 super]

I just saw your last post. The smaller line and smaller bore in m/c will increase your line pressure increasing pedal height, larger lines less pressure lower pedal height, softer pedal. Did you install disk disk prop valve? Also if not great brakes check the rear brake hose, mine after initial mock up was collapsing internally, after restoration, I changed completely to 3/16 and braided lines with corvette master. The 67 master is a 1-1/8 bore cylinder, with 1/4 lines on both pots, 71-72 has 3/16 on front pot for disks, 1/4 on rear for drums, the 1/4 yields less pressure as so not to blow out wheel cylinders, until you move down in line size the pedal and brakes will not be as good as they could be.

[67chevy1series]

What master cylinder so I need then? What car or truck and year uses the smalle bore master cylinder?

[swamp rat]

Per the master here's a pic of my old factory setup and the new setup, The rear larger reservoir is for the front brakes and the front smaller reservoir is for the rear brakes.

On the new brass disk/disk proportioning valve there is an additional outlet on the upper front on the 45 degree surface, on the stock cast that area only has a divot.

The 2 front ports on the proportioning valve are for the front brakes, being as the truck came with one line leaving the proportioning valve at the front bottom port the having a "T" to split the fluid to left and right. On some other applications like the chevelle there were 2 separate front brake lines. Per inline tube you can plug the port on the 45 degree surface and that will send the same volume and pressure of both ports thru the single stock lower port.

On the calipers i didn't use Eldorado calipers on my conversion but with all calipers as a general rule the bleeder screw should be at the top, i think swapping sides may accomplish this.

Hope that helps ya!

[67chevy1series]

That's exactly what I did and it does seen to work just fine all I need now is to find out what master cylinder has a 1 inch bore with both lines being 3/16ths and it seems if I have that then I will have a sooner firmer pedal which is what I'm shooting for

[71 super]

Search eBay for mbm 1321h 1" bore master cylinder, corvette replacement four ports ( block two you don't need, $35 roughly for new cylinder