Project NiteMare-1970 C10 LWB build

[Z10]

Originally Posted by Molberg

Not much to it really.. they're noisy compared to a posi assembly when turning.

I have a powertrax in my 69 Camaro and really like it. One thing to remember is to keep your air pressure in your rear tires at the same pressure and you will greatly reduce the noise.

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by Z10

I have a powertrax in my 69 Camaro and really like it. One thing to remember is to keep your air pressure in your rear tires at the same pressure and you will greatly reduce the noise.

Good to know... thank you.

[Molberg]

Located an 1/8" sway bar from an '80's 1 ton 2wd. Had to make the frame mount bracket. New urethane bushings and set it in place. (no factory sway bar on this truck)

[dmartin1]

looks good! quick question, for the rustoleum, did you brush it on or spray?

and what method did you use for stripping/sanding the rearend and other parts?

im getting ready to do similar and just getting ideas. (dont have a resources for a big compressor for my sandblaster)

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by dmartin1

looks good! quick question, for the rustoleum, did you brush it on or spray?

and what method did you use for stripping/sanding the rearend and other parts?

im getting ready to do similar and just getting ideas. (dont have a resources for a big compressor for my sandblaster)

Thanks! my compressor is too small as well. This truck will be a driver.. and I have to drive some dirt road to get out. Frame paint is gonna get beat up.
I used a braided wire wheel and a braided cup on a grinder.Lots of hours with grease remover and manual wire brush/scotchbrite! Primed it and I sprayed a water based rustoleum. Wouldnt use it again. Their oil product much more durable.

[Molberg]

Moving on to the rad cradle. Commonly rotton on the bottom. A small metal brake is a valuable tool. Cut off rotten lower sections, trace outline in a piece of 18G, give a half inch extra in areas for the return bend. Cut, shape and weld it home. Marked holes where inner fenders bolt up,(used old piece as guide) and tacked 5/16" nuts on inside of repair piece. Seam sealer, prime and paint

[Molberg]

On to the cab.. it was pretty rough. Supports, rockers, pans, firewall, cab corners, clearance lights and a million holes drilled inside for everything from coat hangers to St Christopher medallions. Lots of hours into the cab. Never been so happy as when we set it back on the frame.

[Molberg]

Next was the fuel tank.. I used a 1973 blazer 25 Gal. fuel tank, with a sending unit from a 1984 K5 blazer. It was one I found that would fit the hole in the tank... and have proper resistance range (0-95 ohms)to read accurately with the factory guage. (It does read accurate) The straps were made with 18G sheetmetal. T bolts fit through holes in straps at outer end, then strap folded back and welded. T bolts fastened at front through cross braces I made. (heavy wall square tube) Straps bolt into threaded holes in heavy wall tube at the rear. Made this way to enable tank removal without removing the truck bed.