LS eng guys, please help

[vht]

Set my 5.3 in today for mock up. It's a trk eng like the 6.0 I'm going to use. Looks like I'm going to have to do a little firewall work. I'm going to be between 6 and 6 1/2 in from crank centerline to the 2nd crossmember. That's measuring from the 2nd cm up to the center of the crank I should say. Will know exactly after I level the frame and set the eng 4 degree down, angle finder fell apart and had to go buy a new 1. My front spark plug is right in line with the spindle. The truck oil pan is going to stick below the cross member around 1 1/2 in. Anyone that has a ls in a AD truck, mine's a 51, does all this sound alright? I have a tci Mus II frt end with what is suppose to be 2 in drop spindles, and a 4 bar set up with coil overs in the rear. I don't have a clue how low this is going to set and with no frt end on it I don't know how close I'm going to be to the rad. I'm going to use a Champion 3 core but haven't got it yet. This is my 1st AD build and I'm not real familiar with these trucks so that's why I always seem to be asking questions. Don't want to have to fab something 2 or 3 times to get it right.

[not2oldchevy]

I have a 5.3 in a 53 with a champion rad with a c4 front end. Did not have to do anything to the firewall.

[vht]

I want to try and use the trk front accessories, I got hydro-boost and I have all the lines, pump, etc and they stick out about 2 in or so farther than the cars. My balancer just barely sticks apast the 2nd crossmember. I'm going to use a elec fan so I was hoping it'll fit where it's at now. I could modify the firewall a little and get it back another in or so. I'm just wanting to make sure about weight transfer, handling, and header and steering clearance. If I could help any of that by going back more I will.

[vht]

Ok, In finally found 1 in here, Marvin, in the project section. My eng is back a little more than his which I hope will let me run the truck accessories. Height is about the same as his.

[LEEVON]

I have a '50 truck with 5.3L and TCI MII, with LS1 accessories and electric fan. Nothing had to move on the firewall but it was close on the passenger side head (remember they're offset). It was actually hitting the valve cover and I was about to cut a dimple then I got smart and replaced the cab mount rubber and now I've got about 3/4" clearance. That's with finned aluminum valve covers and no coil packs though. I have a set of cut-to-fit engine mounts welded to the inside and top of the boxed front frame rails, angled at 3 degrees down. I did have to swap to an LS1 pan for clearance, and it's tucked above the crossmember by about 1" or so. I have shorty center dump headers, wish they angled to the rear a little but they'll work. Steering joints are tricky though. Check out my "Popeye" build link, there might be some helpful pics.

As for weight, these trucks are front heavy like any other but I'm happy with where the weight is in relation to the truck's geometry.

[torchlight]

You might also consider moving the radiator forward instead of moving the motor back into the firewall. I think there's space to do that with a little modification of the radiator mounts, if I recall correctly. You're absolutely correct - if you keep the stock radiator location and don't do any firewall work, the LS with truck accessories will just be a smidgen too tight. Good luck! Sounds like a great project!

[vht]

Thanks, you can use a cross flow rad, but it's like 19x22. I've been talking to a member on here, 49ls project. I don't know if that'll keep it cool enough. On the road it'd be ok, but I don't know about stop and go traffic. Maybe I can get out there tomorrow and see what I got. Mon. and tues. we're going to have -20's wind chill so that'll suck.

[chev3600]

A lot of fitment is possible. Mine has no firewall mods and I'm running the truck accessories and stock mechanical fan. Just had to kick the bottom of the radiator forward an inch I think. There's two bolt holes in the side of the rad support, I just moved the support till the front bolt lined up with the rear hole. Champion rad works good.