Rear lowering kit question 68

[68_-c\10]

I installed lowering springs and shocks on the rear of my 68, a 5 inch drop. To me I had to compress the springs way to much in order to get the shocks installed. It appears the shocks have a ton of pressure on them. What do you guys think?

[cool68]

did you check with company that you bought parts from about this?

[19673ontree]

You installed the shocks with the truck apart no bed not on wheels ? If you had the truck on the ground on wheels with the bed installed you could have simply put the shocks on by hand you have no problem here you are good to go ,

[Lanman1972]

Is a C-Notch kit recommended for a 5" Drop on the rear?

[CC69Rat]

Naa .. but I would cut off about half of the bump stop though. You want to CNotch at about 6-6.5" rear drop IMO, especially if you'll be hauling anything, boat, trailer, etc.

Do you have an adjustable track bar to go on it ?

[Lanman1972]

I have not purchased anything yet. Trying to decide 2/4, 3/5, 4/6. I will post a side view pic and get some input. Thanks

[Lanman1972]

Here is my truck. Debating the Drop amount. Running on 20's.

[Lanman1972]

I am leaning towards 2/4 or 3/5, CPP has the Deluxe 3/5 that includes shock relocate, trac bar and drop spindles. When I called them they recommend the C-Notch for the 5" rear drop. Are they just trying to sell me more parts or is it needed?

[special-K]

A "kit" will come with components all designed to work together. You should only need to question compatibility when piecing all the components together from different sources.

[CC69Rat]

First, I dont want to hijack the original thread - just trying to help in more of a group conversation.

What I would do on 'my next one' is a 2.5" spindle up front and a 2" spring. In the rear, a 4" spring and a 2" block. This way the ride will be better (there's more spring material) and you utilize the block for the actual drop. Think of a spring as a diving board. IF it's say 10ft long and there's a 250lb guy standing at the end.. he dives off. The doard will flex a certain amount. Now, cut 3 ft off. The same guy dives off. The board is not going to flex as much.. torsional rigidity changes a bit .. just in my head. I'm sure there is more science to it than I will ever understand but just saying, to me it makes sense to have more spring then adjust the blocks to get it low. Say 2" is just too low and you're bottoming out on the frame(?) no big deal, swap to 1" blocks. Much easier and cheaper than swapping springs too.

I have not personally purchased anything from CPP, I have just read some bad things about customer service. For that reason I am suggesting Early Classics. If you tell them you're a board member they will give you a bit of a discount too. I think it's 10% but every little bit helps.

Remember your truck is 40+yrs old. The springs in it now have likely sagged a little. Say you do the 3/5" drop 'kit' you will not see a full yield of 3" drop. Maybe 2-2.25" at best compared to what you have now. If you want a 3" drop .. do the 4/6" kit. See what I mean? You'll be happier with it, just sayin. Call Early Classics, talk to Stan and he'll fix you up. Get their whole kit, track bar, shock relocators, etc.

If you decide to CNotch it, I would suggest the bolt in kit from Porterbuilt. Pull the bed off to install it, it makes things much easier.

68 -c10 All respect to you brother. Just trying to help