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Old 01-14-2014, 06:38 PM   #1
Fowlmarker1
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1971 molding locations

I have a 1971 shortbed and I want to add upper and lower body moldings. Does anyone have the measurements to get the molding holes drilled? I have searched the site and tried to find some info but haven't had any luck. Thanks, Keith
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:14 PM   #2
Sklptrljay
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Re: 1971 molding locations

I went through this exact issue. I couldn't find any straightforward info either. I said when I got it done I would post what I did, but I have of course procrastinated.

I'll get out to the garage today and get you some measurements and throw a few tips that I figured out doing this also.
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:26 PM   #3
Lee H
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Re: 1971 molding locations

The factory assembly manual has all the dimensions you are looking for.
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:26 PM   #4
70LonghornCST
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Re: 1971 molding locations

These might help a bit. No measurements, but they show the locations.
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1970 Chevy Longhorn
  • Bucket Seats
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  • Factory Tilt
  • CST Package
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Richard

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Adding an AM/FM Decal

Last edited by 70LonghornCST; 01-14-2014 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:39 PM   #5
tlcrz1972
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Re: 1971 molding locations

ditto


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee H View Post
The factory assembly manual has all the dimensions you are looking for.
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:44 PM   #6
48richard
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Re: 1971 molding locations

Try this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=221881
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:27 AM   #7
Fowlmarker1
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Re: 1971 molding locations

Thanks for the help guys!!!!!
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:11 PM   #8
Sklptrljay
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Re: 1971 molding locations

Here are the measurements I promised. I used a cloth tape so it would follow the body line of the fender to give you a true measurement. Here are the things i learned that might be helpful to you.

#1) Be SURE your body panels are aligned correctly. Don't forget the weight of all the glass etc. can cause your door to dip slightly.

#2) I used a string to make lines and penciled them in at the edges of the body panels.

#3) Then I put the molding up with tape (use quality automotive tape) and I took my time until I really liked how everything looked before drilling any holes.

#4) Remember if you have to, you can adjust everything by making a bigger hole up to the size of the nut/washer.

#5) There are spots on the door by the handle and the rear portion of the front fender where you should try to be accurate with your hole, so there is enough room to put the backing nut on. (Almost screwed myself on that one).

#6) If you are taking the fenders on and off during this process put the Cheyenne (or whatever you are using) emblem on BEFORE you put the fender back on.....trust me.

That's about all I can tell you. Good luck buddy, post some pics too.



I ran the tape from the horizontal center of the side marker up to the top edge of the fender so we are starting from same point. From the edge of the fender to the center of the upper molding is 5 7/8".




From the center of the upper molding to the center of the side marker is 5
3/8"



You can't make out the reveal on the lower trim unless you look at the picture showing the side of the truck. The edge of the lower trim to the rolled edge of the fender is 5/16"+.






The center of the trim at the tailgate on my truck ended up matching the lower edge of the upper tailgate molding.
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