Dynamat Installation

[gag1025]

I am going to install Dynamat inside the door panels on my 1953 Chevy truck. The problem as I see it is that there are two small openings in which I will need to get each strip into and use the roller to secure each piece onto the door facing. Any hints that may be of benefit doing this? Don't say get a very skinny arm person to do this. I don't want to cut the door facing out because to me this would make the inside of the panel very unstable and create more problems than it solves. I di think about cutting an 8" - 12" section out all the way across in the middle, but if this can be avoided I would feel better because I don't want to do any cutting unless it is absolutely necessary. I am going to use ABS plastic to make a full door panel. I would really like to hear from as many of you as possible who had the same issue and solved the problem. Thanks for your support.

[oldman3]

gag1025, here's a pic of what I did to mine. Now I was also installing power windows, which made is necessary to cut the hole. I just welded some tabs on the door panel and then screwed the piece back in place. I covered the inside of my doors with sound material, etc. after all my fitting, etc was done. Hope this helps...Jim

[jackson]

Originally Posted by gag1025

I am going to install Dynamat inside the door panels on my 1953 Chevy truck. The problem as I see it is that there are two small openings in which I will need to get each strip into and use the roller to secure each piece onto the door facing. Any hints that may be of benefit doing this? Don't say get a very skinny arm person to do this. I don't want to cut the door facing out because to me this would make the inside of the panel very unstable and create more problems than it solves. I di think about cutting an 8" - 12" section out all the way across in the middle, but if this can be avoided I would feel better because I don't want to do any cutting unless it is absolutely necessary. I am going to use ABS plastic to make a full door panel. I would really like to hear from as many of you as possible who had the same issue and solved the problem. Thanks for your support.

I was thinking about the same thing. I was just worried that water does enter those doors where the window runs . I don't know how tight a seal the glass sweepers and felt are. seams like you may get water behind the dynamat. just thinking out loud. how about that lizard skin stuff and blow it in there with a bedliner gun with a hose attached to the nossel. im glad you asked that question cause im all ears . what about it fellas

[vht]

You could put plastic behind the dr panel. Seal it around every hole like any late model car. You could put the rope type seal, like they use to use on windshields, around the holes and around the edge. Have your plastic cut to fit and stick it on.

[gag1025]

Great ideas. Good point about covering the hole. That would make it easier at a later date if I wanted to add electric windows. I probably will at some point in time swap out the stock window for a one piece. Now I am wondeering how water affects the Dynamat. I guess you could actually seal it off with plastic as well. Spray the foil with a good spray on glue and stick a piece of plastic on it making sure to lap the plastic over the Dynamat at the top and glue it to the metal above the Dynamat. Plus glue plastic to the inside wall of the metal frame and punch holes where the door handle and window handle goes through. Keep the thoughts coming.

[gag1025]

Over the past few days I have learned a lot about sound and heat insulating products. I discovered that it is better to use a product that is made from Butyl rubber than to use a product made from asphalt because the asphalt will break down over time and run and you will see the results coming through openings, seams and through upholstery fabric. I found a product called Fat Mat that was a lot cheaper and was a butyl based product. Have any of you used this product?

[Speedbumpauto]

That's what I used. Not far enough down the road to know anything but it went on good and got good price on E bay for 2 rolls. I'd do it again but I guess it's "caveat emptor".

[gag1025]

$240 for 100 sq ft sure beats all the others I have seen. I bought mine straight from the Fat Mat people.

Mega Mat Xtreme 100 SqFt Butyl Sound Deadener "The Best"! Free Dynamat Sample
Item # 121092666831.

Mega Mat is 70 Mils Nominal Thickness Other Top Brands are Only 67 Mils

Fatmat Sound Control has been servicing the sound dampening industry for many years now. When we started we made one product and that was our FatMat Extreme. Slowly throughout the years we added new products to our line. Our goal is and always will be to offer our customers the best products at the best prices possible. Butyl is a very expensive product, and that's why so many others make false claims of offering a true butyl product, and the ones that do have a true butyl product sell it at ridiculous prices. FatMat has finally found a way to offer you a true butyl product and we did this while still making it very cost effective. Our new Mega Mat is thicker and it contains less fillers giving you a true rubberized butyl compound.

[_Ogre]

after a lot of research i used raammat
2 layers on most surfaces, 2 layers of ensolite foam and carpet over that



black is ensolite foam, grey is carpet

[gag1025]

Ogre, nice looking truck. I looked at all your build photos and was impressed. You did an outstanding job.