need some input on my system. this amp enough for these two subs?

[vegas80step]

4 channel, 2 channel, 4ohms, 2homs, 2000watts, RMS, whooodeeelala...

If all that makes sense to you, then this question is for you:

I'm thinking about running 2 Pioneer TS-SW2501S4 10-Inch subs.

Size: 10-Inch
Woofer Cone Material: Interlaced Basalt/Carbon Fiber Reinforced IMPP Cone
Surround: 3-Layer Fiber Woven Radial Surround with M-shape Cross-section
Voice Coil: Aluminum 6 Layer, Long Voice Coils
Voice Coil Wire: Aluminum
Voice Coil Bobbin: Phenol Resin Coated Glass Cloth
Magnet Construction: Strontium
Basket Design: Cast Aluminum Basket
Gasket: Rubber
Wire Terminals: Silver Spring Compression Terminal
Watts MAX. Music Power: 1200 Watts
Watts Nominal Power Handling: 300 Watts
Frequency Response: 20 ~~ 290Hz
Sensitivity: 90dB
Ohm Rating: 4 ohm
Recommended Enclosure: 0.35 ~~ 0.7 Cubic Feet
Dimensions: 11" x 3-5/8"
Mounting Depth: 3"
Accessory Grill: UD-G258


off of a Power Acoustik Crypt CPT1-2000:

Power Specifications - Subwoofer Channel
RMS Power @ 4 ohms 670 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power @ 2 ohms 870 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power @ 1 ohm Not Stable
Peak Power Output 2000 watts x 1 channel
Amplifier Specifications
Amplifier Class AB
Number of Channels 1 - Mono
Total Peak Power Output 2000 watts
Total RMS Power Output 870 watts
Maximum Input Gauge Size 4 AWG
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged Not Bridgeable
THD at Rated RMS Power 0.05%
Speaker Level Inputs No
Preamp Outputs 1 pair
Built-in Crossover Low-pass (LP)
Full (AP)
High-Pass Crossover Frequency N/A
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 50 - 250 Hz
Subsonic Filter N/A
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 90 dB
Channel Separation N/A
Bass Boost 0 - 12 dB
Bass/Gain Remote Yes
Fan Cooled No
Fuse Rating 25A x 3
CEA-2006 Compliant No


So to all you smarter than I... do the numbers add up?? enough power?
I'd like to get the most out of my subs with only running my amps about 80%.

what do ya think?

[WAAF]

a high power amp.. thats listed on amazon(40) of them all for under 139.00
it'll power your subs. but don't expect much.
I'd get a good 4-500 watt amp first..
just because an amp made 870watts at 1khz (way about a subs range) means nada..
look at the amps home page, it's a full range mono amp.. 10-20khz
pushing that 1khz test signal at 870w is easy as pie compaired to pushing 870w of 30hz bass.. it might work fine as these trucks cabs are so small, you'll never use 870w while sitting in it..
if you're just looking for tha phat boom. it'll work.. and if used while your in the truck.. never be at 800w output. if it is, I'll bet of it shutting down.
if you're looking for nice tight bass.. thats not muddy.. it might have issues..
the flat 10"subs don't need much.. but don't expect that "hit" out of subs that don't move allot of air..
for an amp thats under 130.00 it might be worth a try..
I found years ago there is a reason jl audio/fosgate/etc mono blocks are not cheap.
but my 500w fosgate mono block would be overkill in a truck this size.. as it's a true 500w rms at the bass end 15-250hz not a rating at 1khz thats meaning less to an amp that see's bass only..
give it a whirl, worst thing is you'll have an amp to c/l
good luck..

[john_p]

2000 watts rms in the cab of a truck will kill insects and stunt the growth of small children if wired right.. with a true 2k power you can use 55 gallon drums for speakers.. here is an old trick.. half volume with a steady tone 1000 at 0 db.. measure the voltage and the current going to the speaker.. increase volume until you hear distortion.. multiply voltage time current... true power.. as close as can be determined... it will be way below posted power... but you will know what you are working with..

[jimmydean]

If it comes close to the stated 870W RMS @ 2Ohms, then that should be plenty of power. I have never used either that amp or those subs, so I can't be sure.

The amp is rated at 670W @ 4 and 870W @ 2, at least they aren't trying to say 2 ohms is twice the output of 4, so maybe they haven't overstated. I prefer using equipment that has been measured by someone other than the company unless it's a birth sheet from the factory. Check google and see if anyone has measured that amp.

If not, you might want to look for an amp that has been measured that is in that price rance unless you are hell bent on running that amp.

[vegas80step]

Thanks for the input guys.

I'm not dead set on this amp, or even stuck in this price point. I'm just trying to find a happy medium. I know there is no need to spend thousands upon thousand to get a great sounding system. At the same time, sometimes and extra $100 give you a thousands times better sound.

another option I'm looking at is:
JX500/1 - JL Audio Monoblock 500W JX Series Full Range Amplifier
it says "The JX500/1 mono amp puts out up to 500 watts RMS to your sub" how would that working pushing 2 subs?

thinking about pairing it with:
JX360/4 - JL Audio 4-Channel 360W Class A/B Amplifier
it says "The JX360/4 4-channel amp delivers 70 watts RMS per channel to your front and rear speakers"

I might be displaying the amps, would be cool if they matched...

any input on these two?

[WAAF]

the jl's will drive 10 subs if wired right..
you are running a MONO sub amp
you don't NEED 2 subs..
I'd go with 1 12" it's only 20 bucks more than the 10.. so you save 170 bucks there..
and then get a nice amp.. and 1/2 farad cap..
1 12" sub is more than enough in these cabs.. the bigger air space allowed by use'n the 1 sub over cutting the space in half running 2 will help the sub be louder at the lower notes..
the 1/2 farad cap will allow you not to eat alternators
my 97 f-150 standard cab truck (think lightning) cap is only a little bigger.. I had 2 12" jl subs and a 500w rockfordfosgate 2 channel amp (250wx2) and ran the subs in stereo..
the amp gain was all the way off.. and it was way to much.. you could not see in any mirrors even with the volume almost off.. a ported box will be louder and take even less power than a sealed box.. but not as tight.. not that much of a biggie with a flat sub..

[WAAF]

a little reading
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/box_wizard.asp

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scrip...php?p_faqid=15

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scrip...php?p_faqid=30

port placement
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scrip...php?p_faqid=26

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scrip...php?p_faqid=24

[vegas80step]

cool thanks for the info. I don't think I'm putting side mirrors on so there is one problem off the list... lol

i have a way better understanding of how things work now.

My last question (maybe) is what I don't get it if I'm running an amp with output rating of 500 watts RMS x 1 Channel at 4 Ohms. and run 2 subs off of it is it getting 250rms per sub?

[WAAF]

read the sub wire'n link..

it's still 500w it's just gonna want more currant..
driving a sub at 500w over 250 doesn't make it twice as loud..

[vegas80step]

tons of good info in those links, thanks for posting..

[WAAF]

no problem

[stephenmeeker]

The 12 shallow is an awesome speaker, I put one in and was very very happy

[Pepin]

Originally Posted by vegas80step

cool thanks for the info. I don't think I'm putting side mirrors on so there is one problem off the list... lol

i have a way better understanding of how things work now.

My last question (maybe) is what I don't get it if I'm running an amp with output rating of 500 watts RMS x 1 Channel at 4 Ohms. and run 2 subs off of it is it getting 250rms per sub?

it CAN work you would have to parallel wire the speakers I believe...(i havent done car audio in a while) BUT what most people here are saying is true...you do NOT need that much...I had a car with a set of components and one 12" sub with 500w RMS and it was LOUD!!! with car audio I like to use good brands and pair up the watts right and you will be fine...you will be surprised what a 300w RMS sub can do when its a TRUE 300Watts RMS... someone mentioned Rockfdord, JL etc...I would definitely go with one of those brands you can NOT go wrong...good luck and keep us posted...