Flipping the OEM Motor mounts ?

[lenguini]

Looking for some input on motor mounts.I have heard that flipping them or swapping sides better yet put might be a solution to moving the engine just far enough ahead to allow for tall valve covers as well as HEI distributor clearance. (I have replaced the cradle/suspension in my 65 with a early to mid 80's one.)

Now the perch bolt holes currently line up in rear position on the frame..., I have heard I would need 67 thu 72 perch's If I want to move ahead to the front holes on the frame as they are a little shorter.But this may be to far ahead anyway as Im running a typical style fan blade and have no interest in running electric.

Would appreciate input here on those who have tried and tested.

[ol_skool_chevy]

No........................just get a set of 69-72 SBC motor mounts and move them into the existing forward holes in your frame.
I did it with mine and I have a ton of room for HEI....
If I'm wrong on something I'm sure Captinfab will ring in. knows more then me...a lot with other members

[lenguini]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

No........................just get a set of 69-72 SBC motor mounts and move them into the existing forward holes in your frame.
I did it with mine and I have a ton of room for HEI....
If I'm wrong on something I'm sure Captinfab will ring in. knows more then me...a lot with other members

What are you running for a fan ? Any chance of a detailed pic or 3 under the hood,Id appreciate it.

[ol_skool_chevy]

this is all I have now I will take more later

[lenguini]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

this is all I have now I will take more later

Thanks,Look forward to seeing the others as well.A good overhead shot would be helpfull.I should mention Im running a tall water pump and rad moved ahead 1" space from the rad support.

[lenguini]

Unless no means it cant be done ? I had heard it can,but this may be a misunderstanding on my part.....,so if it can I'd still like to see some pics and info on flipped motor mount perch's folks..., just to keep my options open.

Thanks in advance.

[Captainfab]

I've never had any issues with running a HEI with the engine in it's original location. I have run tall valve covers but there are taller ones than what I used. If you swap sides with the original motor mount brackets, that will move your engine ahead slightly, I just don't remember exactly how much as I have not done so myself. Since you are running a long water pump, I would be cautious about changing to the '67-'72 small block frame brackets. Your fan will be getting pretty close to the radiator and you will have no choice but to fabricate a fan shroud.

[lenguini]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I've never had any issues with running a HEI with the engine in it's original location. I have run tall valve covers but there are taller ones than what I used. If you swap sides with the original motor mount brackets, that will move your engine ahead slightly, I just don't remember exactly how much as I have not done so myself. Since you are running a long water pump, I would be cautious about changing to the '67-'72 small block frame brackets. Your fan will be getting pretty close to the radiator and you will have no choice but to fabricate a fan shroud.

That's some good news Cap,Just had 2 hours into modifying the perch's,dont want to scrap them now.

I included a pic of one of my covers,they are at 4 3/4" in height.Let me know your thoughts.I measured a 1 1/2" dif if you change perch sides...but they don't seem to line up in the frame holes all that well .

[Brad54]

I've got a '60-'62 Suburban with the T-bar suspension, X-frame, bellhousing mounts on the engine and the saddle-style front mount.
No problem with the HEI. Plenty of clearance.
Would they have moved the engine closer to the firewall on the later trucks when they changed the frame style?

-Brad

[gimmy 64]

I was wondering the same thing. I am replacing my engine right now and would like to move it ahead about 1/2 in. distributor fit fine and the tall valve covers fit but passenger side is real close.

[lenguini]

Originally Posted by gimmy 64

I was wondering the same thing. I am replacing my engine right now and would like to move it ahead about 1/2 in. distributor fit fine and the tall valve covers fit but passenger side is real close.

Id sure like a pic of your perch's swapped resting in place at rear position just to see how they line up with factory holes at cradle and frame...,mine are off.

[Captainfab]

Those covers may touch the firewall on the passenger side. It's hard to say for certain. There must be someone here with similar valve covers that can give some input.

[lenguini]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Those covers may touch the firewall on the passenger side. It's hard to say for certain. There must be someone here with similar valve covers that can give some input.

I hope for some pics of them.It would be nice to know in advance as flipping the perches ......well they just dont sit right and drilling I would like to avoid.

[LVPhotos]

I used 72 mounts and bellhouse mount.

[lenguini]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

I used 72 mounts and bellhouse mount.

Thanks for posting some pics.I would like to ask the height(mine are 4 3/4 base to top of fins) of your valve covers,distributor type,fan to rad clearence and if you have moved the engine forward.

Is it possible for you to take some more pics with better lighting and close ups of the mounts as well.Its tough to see detail here.

Thanks.

[cori 64]

just move everything forward a little and drill new holes!thats what i did ,and i have the same valve covers and an hei,long water pump,
not so damn close to firewall now!

[LVPhotos]

Will get pictures when I get home today. I had the HEI in just swapped in the MSD for more top end spark reliability. The covers had to be raised with 1/4" gaskets to clear stock rockers. Got the covers at So Cal. The motor is in stock location minus front mount... no provisions on 400 block. The bellhouse mounts help locate motor then I had to drill frame for the junkyard stands. But if you look at my build page you can see the 283 sat in same spot. Still can get hand between firewall and covers. Cap has to come off the distributor to install/remove.

[LVPhotos]

Ok, so the covers are 3 3/4" with 1/4" gaskets. Got board and Mr. Handy stepped in.

[LVPhotos]

Top of 8.5mm wires. The HEI worked fine just have to remove cap to get in/out. That was with same wires. For size reference my fingers are 3/4" ea.

[lenguini]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

Top of 8.5mm wires. The HEI worked fine just have to remove cap to get in/out. That was with same wires. For size reference my fingers are 3/4" ea.

Thank you for all the pics and details,I appreciate it.Looks like I'm moving mine forward with the height of my covers.

Thank Mr.Handy for me as well,his efforts are appreciated too!

[pdxhall]

I am in the process of installing my engine and I am using CPP tubular mounts that fit the front holes in the frame moving the engine forward about 2" and lower about 1". Clearances all look good in the front. I don't have the body on but that amount of forward should give you the clearance you are looking for.

[lenguini]

Originally Posted by pdxhall

I am in the process of installing my engine and I am using CPP tubular mounts that fit the front holes in the frame moving the engine forward about 2" and lower about 1". Clearances all look good in the front. I don't have the body on but that amount of forward should give you the clearance you are looking for.

Thanks for the pic.I'm running modified factory perches as the CPP product will not work with my headers.Not running an electric fan either so unfortunatly there are limitations with my mounting options.

[lenguini]

My distributor is equipped with an integral coil,so it is considerably larger than an M.S.D. Mini.I didnt think to mention this until now an I should have when starting this thread.

I posted a pic here of my 383 so you get a better idea with valve covers distrib.,etc.

I should also stress Im using a serpantine system requiring a tall waterpump with a steel fan up front,not an electric or clutch...,which will probably be a benifit room wise for me.Rad is close to stock location,maybe an inch forward.

I would like to see pic's of flipped oem mounts(perches) in the rear holes if anyone has attempted this on a similar config to mine.Almost all aftermarket perche's wont work for me with my header type.

Thanks in advance.

[gimmy 64]

put my motor in yesterday. my valve covers are 4in. tall. original motor mount holes. barely fit .had to message my fire wall abit .now I have about 1/4 in. clearance from valve cover. I don't think 4 1/2 will work. I tried reversing the motor mount stands and they really didn't fit very good . top holes kinda of matched but not really?if you move to the front holes I don't think you will have a problem with the long pump because this what I have. lots of room but I don't think you can run a fan shroud.