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[dennislbrooks]

Ready to put hood back on. Bled power steering and hydroboost today.

[Yukon Jack]

Looks awesome!!! You'll enjoy the hydroboost.

[argonaut]

Looks so sweet! I love it.

[bhammer]

You have any pictures of the motor mounts? I have a 396 I've been wanting to drop in my 4x4 but not sure how to go about it... Thanks.

[argonaut]

When I did mine I used the cross member from a 72 k10. I did this because i removed the crossmember that the bellhousing typically mounts on. I had to move the motor forward a couple inches to give comfortable access and clearance around the valve covers and distributor.
I have however seen guys that have big blocks sitting on stock 66 k10 perches in the factory location. Not sure why it worked for them and not me. I didn't check but I suspect it may be that the 72 cross member makes the engine sit slightly higher.

[Gobuffalo]

You can mount a big block with all small block stands and mounts. You need to use headers and notch the left side stand. You should use polyurethane motor mounts. You will need to grind off the bottom corners of the left side mount to clear the bump in the block for the oil galley that runs down the left side just above the pan rail. Re-drill the holes in the top and bottom of the frame 2" forward.
If you want the exact bolt hole locations, look at the top of a two wheel drive frame and copy that.
I've done this to my 70 4X4 Suburban and I run a 496 with no problems.

[bhammer]

So the mounting is in the exact same place as it is on a 2wd frame? I can use the same 4x4 engine crossmember right? I just need to move everything forward 2" which would be where they would go on a 2wd frame and do a little trimming on the passenger side mount? Do you happen to have a picture of the mount that you trimmed so I can see exactly what you cut? Thanks.

[Gobuffalo]

I only had to modify the left motor mount stand and the lower corners of the motor mount itself. On the right side of my frame the top came from the factory with the holes already drilled. So I measured the difference, drilled the bottom right and everything on the left. I will look for a picture.
Here's one of the right before drilling.

[Gobuffalo]

This pic is of brake lines but if you look in the upper left side you can see how big the notch is. I also had to trim about a 1/4" of the frame rail on each side to make the headers fit.
I used Sanderson headers. I don't remember what application they are from. I have a very nice dealer who let me try a number of different kinds till I found one that fit. They have 1 7/8" primary tubes, 3" collectors and 3/8" flanges. You can see one extra hole that was in the frame I used.
I have a 2 wheel drive 70 C20 that I checked the frame on and it had 4 holes in the top of frame the frame rails. That arrangement was a small block and a TH400. The fan and shroud Lind up perfect. The Suburban is a big block, TH400 and NP205 transfer case. The fan shroud lined up with this also.
You can get a set of big block stands and mounts, cut the bottoms off, weld the top of the big block to the bottom of the 4X4 stands also. ORD makes a custom cross member and mounts also.

[Gobuffalo]

2WD big block perch. The big notch at the top is for exhaust manifold. Uses a big block only motor mount.

[Gobuffalo]

Small blocks don't have the notch. (Ignore the red arrow) only pic I had.

[Gobuffalo]

If you don't move the engine forward, you can't get the right rocker cover off without removing the engine. It's also a tight fit for a lever type throttle.
Ask me how I know!

[Gobuffalo]

Here's a couple of close up pics of a big block 4X4 on small block stands.
Right side.

[Gobuffalo]

Right side.
The stand is mounted in the forward most holes.
Had trim the top of the frame so the headers would fit.

[Gobuffalo]

Left side.
Had to trim also.