Coverting to 4WD

[Thors72Cheyenne]

Converting to 4WD.

I finally came across someone that is selling 2 separate 4WD frames.

1970 K20 Dana 44 hd w/disk front axle, Eaton rear axle
1972 K10 Dana 44 w/disk front axle, Corp 12 bolt rear axle

Both frames are supposedly in great shape, no damage.

Also, is there a way to verify that the frames are indeed K frames, and not C frames converted to 4WD?

I have a 1972 Super Cheyenne C20 that I will be converting

Both frames are in the $400 range each. Any advise as to which would be a better frame to purchase? Any advise is greatly appreaciated.

[54blackhornet]

How are you going to use it ?

[CUSTOM/10]

K/4wd frames & C/2wd frames are very different in the rear section and are easy to tell apart. K frames are straight over the rear wheels and the C frames bow out to the sides over the rear wheels / axle. There are other differences, but that one just stands out !

Gary

[sdailey]

Looks for factory rivets in the cab/suspension mounts.

[54blackhornet]

I am in the process of dropping a low hump 68 cab & clip on a 71 K-10, will keep up updated....

[Thors72Cheyenne]

It will be my do all truck, and occasional offroading. Minor lift, nothing overly aggresive.

I think i'm going for the K20, more heavy duty. But my understanding is that most aftermarket stuff is for K10's.

[dbash]

example of Original K frame. This is the one under my truck. There are some cross members removed in this pic but it shows the basically straight rails compared to a 2wd frame.

My K frame is about 25% thicker then my old C 2WD frame too.

Hope this helps.

[burnin oil]

Back then there wasnt alot of difference in them. My K20 has a 4" lift and it uses the same springs as the 73+ body. Same thing for the K10, atleast the later versions of the body style. Front axles were both Dana 44 and the 60 wasn't offered yet. Some off the componants in the axle are heavier though. Point being that just about anything will switch between the two frames. Same price and equal condition I would get the K20 frame or box the K10 if you plan to abuse it.

[i82much]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

Back then there wasnt alot of difference in them. My K20 has a 4" lift and it uses the same springs as the 73+ body. Same thing for the K10, atleast the later versions of the body style. Front axles were both Dana 44 and the 60 wasn't offered yet. Some off the componants in the axle are heavier though. Point being that just about anything will switch between the two frames. Same price and equal condition I would get the K20 frame or box the K10 if you plan to abuse it.

i believe the k10 longbed and k20 have the same frame, no?

[Thors72Cheyenne]

Thanks for all of the replies and help. I'm going with the K20 frame. it's only a $25 price difference.

[i82much]

Originally Posted by Thors72Cheyenne

Thanks for all of the replies and help. I'm going with the K20 frame. it's only a $25 price difference.

Wait I'm confused. Sorry, I'm fairly new to the classic truck game. Are you going with the K20 frame because of the axles that come with it? Or is there something different about the K20 frame itself?

[dbash]

I would take a tape measure with me.... pull the tape from each front corner to opposite rear corner. and I would buy whichever frame was closest to being exactly the same in both measurements. Not to mention eyeballing them both for being straight.

All things being equally straight I would buy the K20 as well.

[burnin oil]

K20 is thicker but most parts are the same. In othr words the K20 would be considered a light duty 3/4 on todays market. Nothing wrong with them and I personaly believe the old 1/2 tons were over built. Alot of guys who hope these up box the frames for added strength.