Opinions please!

[djgebert]

I have a little dilemma. I have a 71' factory short bed. The cab is rusty in the rockers, cab corners, kick panels, floor boards in about 6", (basically all of the usual spots). The firewall and window frame are good, roof is good. I have a VERY NICE, basically 99% rust/dent free 69' cab I bought 10 years ago or so with intentions of swapping the cabs. Now that I finally have time to get too the truck and get it finished I am having second thoughts. The 69 cab did not come with a title so I called the BMV who said that if I swapped the cabs I would be issued a rebuilt title, which I really don't want to do. I am now thinking maybe I should just sell the 69' cab and use the money to have the 71' cab repaired. What would you guys/gals do? And, how much do you think the 69' cab is worth and how much do you think it would cost to have the 71' cab repaired (educated guess). The 69' is a non A/C cab and beautiful, but again no title. I have attached a couple of pics so everyone sees what I am talking about. The 71' came factory with a straight six 3 on the tree, so it is by no means a rare truck, but it is a real short bed with matching frame and I really don't want it to have a salvage title. I have a 700r4 and built 383 that is going in it. I already have perfect bed sides, fenders, doors, tailgate, hood, interior, etc., the cab is my only concern now. Thanks in advance for the help and advice! (Upper pic is 71, Lower is 69)

[sean1969c10]

May not be the most "ethical" idea but, you could swap the 71 vin tag to the 69 cab. Just a thought.

[djgebert]

I know, I thought about it, but the 69 cab doesn't have the vents on the door jams and there is a small hump where the mirror mounts on a 1971 so it would be obvious to those who know these trucks. That 69 cab is so nice it is hard to not use it, but I really don't like the idea of that salvage title. I don't even think it would affect the value of the truck that much, but it just has a bad stigma to me when something has a salvage title.

[franken]

You can get a complete new floor which may be cheaper to install laborwise than patch panels. Still need cab corners and outer rockers, but...

I'd guess the 69 cab also has rust even if you can't see it. The old bodies rusted from the inside out because there was no coating on the steel. There are other reasons, but that's a big one.

So my opinion is fix the original cab...

[68bowtie]

opinion? fix the original. the 69 will need repair work aynway to do it right. some dont care about having a complete original matching truck, but it sounds like you do (and i do too). you will be happier fixing the 71 in the long run.

[TonyJohnson]

Swapping cabs is no easy job, either. I'd sell it and fix the one you have. One other option is to look for a nice frame/bed and build one that deserves a salvage title...

[djgebert]

I am starting to lean more towards fixing it, but it is killing me to give up a cab that needs next to nothing done to it to fix one that needs so much work. I have had that 69 cab in my garage for ten years and it had been in a heated pole barn for 7 or 8 years when I bought it. It came from somewhere around Scottsdale and is as solid as I have ever seen (but I am in Indiana). I guess I need to find me a good body man in the area and see how much its going to cost me to fix the original cab. I have been collecting new and the best of the best used parts I could find for over ten years to build this truck someday and now that I am ready to get it done I just don't know if I can live with having it turned into a salvage title. Good grief, I hate making decisions.

[cherokeejohn]

I say the 71 vin tag would look right at home on the 69, lol IMHO. I have been a body tech and painter for 17 yrs and I personally would rather pull some glass, swap a plate and a pair of rivets, add a aftermarket A/C, and roll with it. I am not a purist though, to a body man, if its the same generation and makes life easier,and save me some coin, i'd do it, but it's all in your preferences. either way, i wish you the best and I'll keep in on your posts Cherokee John

[TonyJohnson]

I wouldn't worry about just swapping it out, either...

[hugger6933]

If you don't swap the complete cab it is not needed to change it to a rebuilt title. In my state first off, If they are too old for a odometer statement[10 years] they are supposed to be too old for a rebuilt title. we don't have salvage titles anymore they are damaged or prior damage. To get the title back on a truck that is tagged with the damaged label it has to be inspected and the parts used have to be verified by their vin number . But any way what I mean by not needing all of the cab cut out the "portions"with the most importance to the 71 truck to maintain its proper paper work. Jim

[franken]

You're still fixating on the supposedly rust free cab, when in real life, there is no such thing.

Any 67-72 truck that hasn't had the rockers and cab corners replaced needs it. Get some Norton T27 disks and take the paint off the newer cab corners and rockers. I'll bet you find pinholes. Pinholes mean there's at least 1/4" divot on the other side. Find one and there are a hundred more.

So by swapping cabs, and spending $x on paint you move the rust repair to the future; but the problem is still there...

BTW, my truck is from North Texas, which is a reasonable place for not rusting, but I still have see through rockers and cab corners.

Vehicle titles are state laws. Other than your state rules mean nothing...

[special-K]

Fox the '71 and keep the other cab spare,as you have all this time. You may feel better about selling it later,once the '71 is lookin' good. Basically,one thing at a time. Just fix the cab and let selling the other marinade.

[burnin oil]

I would learn to weld. I repaired mine and other than some time it was not all that bad. The cab I repaired was in excellant shape other than the bottom. The truck was originally a fire truck that had roof lights. Over time a leak formed around the wiring. Water rolled down and rotted out the outer kick panel, rockers, floor pans, and cab corners. I replaced it all on the weekends while using the truck as a daily driver. There is a wonderful writeup in the bodywork section that will walk you through it. I am a decent welder but not a body man. If I can do it so can you. All you really need is a mig welder with 023 wire with gas and a grinder with cutting discs.
My biggest challenge was resetting the cab to ride hieght prior to swapping the cab supports out. Alot of emphisis is placed on bracing everything prior to welding but if it is already sagging it doesnt really do much good. I used a jack and 4x4s to get it back in plane then welded the panel in. It may not be 100% perfect but is definatly better than 95% of the trucks running around. Take your time and measure 4 times. Only replace a few more inches of metal than the rust. Resist the urge to use the entire patch panel. Pretty easy actually if you take your time and think out each step.