New purchase

[Jurassic-1]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Is that a factory stance? Very nice! Get it in the sunlight and post more photos pleeeeeez!

I will get some this week

[Jurassic-1]

These trucks seem to be harder to get info on than the 1967-72 trucks. They seem to have variances which differ from east coast to west coast. This link looks like there are some more resources Thanks for the help.

[Jurassic-1]

I did a bit of work on the 66 yesterday. I replaced the heater core with a Murry from Orelliys. The tubes were not exact they were lacking the height and bend of the originals and the brace would not fit at all. I steam cleaned the engine and found out under the grease it was a 250 6 not a 230. It also revealed a 4 inch weld near the bell housing area. I am not sure if it may have froze or what the deal is but it runs great and has zero blow by. I also bought a Guage cluster and harness to put in real gauges instead of lights. I did get a few more pics in the sunlight.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Jurassic-1

I did a bit of work on the 66 yesterday. I replaced the heater core with a Murry from Orelliys. The tubes were not exact they were lacking the height and bend of the originals and the brace would not fit at all. I steam cleaned the engine and found out under the grease it was a 250 6 not a 230. It also revealed a 4 inch weld near the bell housing area. I am not sure if it may have froze or what the deal is but it runs great and has zero blow by. I also bought a Guage cluster and harness to put in real gauges instead of lights. I did get a few more pics in the sunlight.

Sounds like the core was incorrect for the heater: seems like there are very slight differences not specified in some of the catalog descriptions.

Regardless, if you managed to install it, they seem to work fine: remember to do what I failed to do on my 1st replacement: altho' my brace fit(fairly well), I failed to support the heater hoses on my inner fender, and the engine's "toward the right side rocking", due to the torque of the engine, pulled excessively on my tubes & caused then to break loose & slightly leak where they were soldered to the tank. I found this was very important, and necessary, for the tubes' solder-joints to last. Also, ensure your heater tubes are PLENTY long. [I almost forgot you were a classroom auto mechanics instructor--please forgive if I was too elementary in my advice!)

Good luck with that 'driver quality paint job', as you described it. I only wonder what your 'show quality paint jobs' would look like!?
Sam

[Jurassic-1]

You are correct. I am going to build a bracket for the tubes but I did keep the Harrison core. I am going to see how much it would cost to rebuild it. I still do not know how far I will go with the truck. I will probably keep it simple. My next projects include replacing the window regulators and instruments.