Help - Need wise engine break in advice!

[ubtripn]

I have installed my new 350 crate engine. It has vortec heads, edlebroke intake/carb/headers, anyway:

1. Are these crate engines built with tighter tolerances than the originals? Meaning, as everyone knows, engines of today have much tighter tolerances which contributes to not requiring a break in period when you buy a car. (Some say.)

2. Are any of the break in procedure recommendations verifiably required? I have seen new engines put on dynos and run up to high RPM's. How much of this break in procedure is now either obsolete or not needed?

The givens for me are the oil change with filter at 100 miles, then 500 miles then regular intervals.

Beyond that I have (for the past day) been driving it like normal with a few runs up to 5000 RPM's. I have tried to avoid idling for too long or staying at one speed for too long.

Please give me your wisdom, thanks!

(P.S. Don't know if it's a roller cam, engine was a mispick that was resold.)

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

I have installed my new 350 crate engine. It has vortec heads, edlebroke intake/carb/headers, anyway:

1. Are these crate engines built with tighter tolerances than the originals? Meaning, as everyone knows, engines of today have much tighter tolerances which contributes to not requiring a break in period when you buy a car. (Some say.)

2. Are any of the break in procedure recommendations verifiably required? I have seen new engines put on dynos and run up to high RPM's. How much of this break in procedure is now either obsolete or not needed?

The givens for me are the oil change with filter at 100 miles, then 500 miles then regular intervals.

Beyond that I have (for the past day) been driving it like normal with a few runs up to 5000 RPM's. I have tried to avoid idling for too long or staying at one speed for too long.

Please give me your wisdom, thanks!

(P.S. Don't know if it's a roller cam, engine was a mispick that was resold.)

GM Performance Parts supplies the following break-in procedure with it's engines:
1. SAFETY FIRST! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.

2. Be sure to check the oil level in the engine and prime the oil system with an engine priming tool! This is the most important step! Your crate engine has most likely sat for a while and most of it's lubrication has drained back to the pan!

3. Quality 10W-30 or 10W-40 Oil is recommended for GM's Performance Crate Engines. Most Stock Factory replacement engines use either 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil. If you plan on running synthetic oils, we recommend that a new engine is first broken in with regular mineral type engine oil.

4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for quick start up and smoothest idle possible.

5. Set the ignition timing after engine starts.- Starting point for most carbureted crate engines is 10 degrees Before top dead center with vacuum advance disconnected. Computer controlled engines with a distributor are generally set at 0 degrees before top dead center with the set timing connector disconnected (refer to your vehicles service manual for details)

6. Flat tappet hydraulic cams only- (Such as the 250 hp-350, 290hp-350 & 330hp-350 Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM's, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes. This is critical to break in the camshaft.

7. Roller Cammed engines (such as the ZZ4, F.B. 385, 383's and big blocks) do not need to follow the procedure in step 6 because roller cams do not need to be broken in.

8. Remember that the cooling system on a fresh engine swap will have a lot of trapped air, which will lead to wild temperature gauge readings and possible water pump cavitation (water pump not moving coolant due to trapped air) To help avoid trapped air in the cooling system, try to fill the cooling system up with a 50/50 mix of quality coolant and water a few hours before you plan on starting the engine. Leave the radiator cap off during this time. This will tend to help purge a fair amount of trapped air before you start the engine. Specialty fill funnels can also be purchased from Listle tools and Snap-On dealers that help alleviate this problem. Also helpful during break-in is to use a Lever-Vent type radiator cap on your radiator in so that you can manually purge trapped air while engine is running- (use extreme caution to avoid being burned by hot coolant) Your normal cap can then be re-installed after engine cools off.

9. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM.

The following 2 steps generally are not necessary due to our advanced piston ring sealing technology, but can be performed to help ring break in.

10. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3000 RPM (40 to 50 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

11. Run a couple hard throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

12. Let engine cool and change the oil and filter and check coolant level, top off if necessary.

13. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 5000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.

14. Change the oil and oil filter again.- Keep an eye on oil level during the first thousand or so miles.

15. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles!

[ubtripn]

got it, thx! I hope my revs up to 5k didn't hurt it. (Was parked when I did it.)

[i82much]

Originally Posted by Fitz

The following 2 steps generally are not necessary due to our advanced piston ring sealing technology, but can be performed to help ring break in.

10. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3000 RPM (40 to 50 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

11. Run a couple hard throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

If you decide to do these two steps, particularly the last one, it can be helpful to do step 11 by doing the coasting downhill, and, if possible, the accelerating uphill. If I recall correctly, the idea is to build some heat in the engine and then go to a high vacuum condition, pushing the rings against the cylinder wall. Accelerating uphill is a higher load on your engine, and decelerating downhill helps keep your RPM's up as you coast with the throttle closed.

[Grumpy old man]

I think it would be wise to avoid any 5,000 rpm no load run ups for a while .

[ubtripn]

Roger that

[mmiddle]

My thoughts are....
If it is a flat-tappet cam then that must to be broke-in correctly by the cam manufacturers recommendations. OR it will fail!
If it is a roller cam then start it up tune it out and drive it! This is what you would do with a brand new truck.... right?
Of course, make sure you have no leaks and temp and oil pressure is behaving.
Beyond that.... if it is a good motor it will last and if it is a bad motor it will fail. Roller cams do not form a wear pattern and rings & bearings will establish their wear pattern regardless of what you do..so long as everything is operating normally. As far as hard runs... Dyno-ed engines follow this with soon after full throttle runs.
But, it is your motor and everyone has a system that works for them.

[brad_man_72]

Sounds like you already have it broken in...

It depends on the cam. Flat tappet or roller. The break in, the oil used for break in and its life, ect

[LockDoc]

-
I posted this in another thread but I guess it won't hurt to spread it around...

LockDoc
------------------------------------

I don’t know about anyone else but the engine I ordered from Jegs did not include break in instructions. I saved the instructions from my last 350ci 260hp crate engine so I thought I would post them in this thread. The normal disclaimers apply to this document such as no guarantee of accuracy, correctness, or omissions, and you use it at your own risk… All I can tell you is that I used these instructions for the crate engine I installed in my ’69 Suburban last summer and it worked great…. It also includes a lot of other useful info. Just print it out and hang it on the wall.

If anyone finds any errors please let me know and I will check them out.

Thanks,
LockDoc


------------------------------------------------
Initial Crate Engine Break In Procedure

The following form is the GM recommended crate engine start-up procedure with some minor changes made to it by Sallee Chevrolet. You can use this form for keeping track of your engine's break-in.

GM'S RECOMMENDED CRATE ENGINE START-UP PROCEDURE

Print this document out and check off numbers below when each step is completed.

1) Safety first! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear. Next verify that all hoses are tight and that both the radiator and radiator over flow jar/tank are full and have been filled with the proper anti-freeze and water mix.
2) Before starting your engine for the first time, add one pint of engine oil supplement ( EOS¹) to the crankcase oil and then check the oil level. Once this has been done, prime the oil system with an oil pump primer tool. Make sure number 1 cylinder is on TDC compression stroke, and install the distributor.
3) Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start up and smoothest idle possible.
4) When the engine first starts, verify that the engine rpm is at a safe level and that the timing is set near or at 30° before top dead center (BTDC). Run the engine speed between 1,500 and 2,500 RPM's, varying the engine speed up and down with-in this range, to prevent overheating of the exhaust valves and the exhaust system. This should be done with no-load on the engine and for the first 30 minutes of operation.
5) After the first 30 minutes of the engine running, set the ignition timing according to the timing specifications. Now would be a good time to check thoroughly for leaks.
6) Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
7) Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM.
8) Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
9) Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
10) Change the oil and filter with recommended oil (10w30SG in most cases) and filter.
11) Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 3,800 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12) Change oil and filter again.
13) Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles!

Note¹: EOS P/N 1052367 can be used any time during the life of the engine.
Technical Note: This procedure has been corrected and improved from the original GMPP procedure by Sallee Chevrolet.

Warning: Your engine will not be fully broke in until after at least 2,000 miles of driving have been put on it with normal organic oil.

Installation Parts You May Need
10147994 - Intake Gasket
12346192 - Silicon Sealant for Intake Gasket

Both of the following gaskets are needed for the fuel pump mounting plate:
10114141 - Fuel Pump Gasket
12560223 - Fuel Pump Mounting Plate Gasket

This would also be a good time to go to a chromed fuel pump block off plate or mounting plate if you are planning on adding chrome to your engine or you can just reuse your existing mounting or block off plate. Sallee Chevrolet can supply you with a chromed block off plate that has the Chevy Bow Tie on it as well as a chromed mechanical fuel pump and chromed fuel pump mounting plate if you plan on running a mechanical fuel pump.

You can use either a 1 quart or 3/4 quart oil filter with this engine.
25160561 - 1 Quart Oil Filter (ACDelco PF1218)
25324052 - 3/4 Quart Oil Filter (ACDelco PF454)

05613957 - Spark Plug (ACDelco R45TS) [Gap @ .035 for points distributor, .045 for HEI distributor]

Flexplates and Flywheels that can be used depending on your application:
00471598 - 14 inch diameter flexplate (automatic transmissions)
00471529 - 12.75 inch diameter flexplate (automatic transmissions)
03991469 - 14 inch diameter flywheel (manual transmissions)

Harmonic dampers that can be used:
06272221 - 6.75 inch harmonic damper
06272222 - 8 inch harmonic damper

Thermostats that can be used:
10207381 - 180°F Thermostat
12514334 - 195°F Thermostat
10105135 - Thermostat Gasket

Water pumps that can be used:
12522016 - Cast iron, long-leg style, water pump for 1969 through 1976 applications.
88894341 - Cast iron, Long-leg style, water pump for 1977 through 1987 applications.
12458926 - Cast iron, short-leg style, water pump for 1967 through 1972 pickups and cars up to 1968.
12458924 - Cast iron, short-leg style, water pump for 1971 through 1981 Corvettes.

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What to do after installation and initial break-in is completed.

1) Check oil level.
2) Check engine coolant for level and proper temperature protection for your location. Also check that the coolant is cycling properly and that the thermostat is opening when the engine warms up.
3) Check for leaks and retighten fan belts.
4) If you have installed an aluminum intake manifold, you must re-torque the intake bolts. Torque to 35 ft.-lbs. or tighten snuggly with a wrench, if no torque wrench is available or practical for your application.
5) If your engine has tubular exhaust headers, retighten the header bolts after the initial engine break-in to prevent leaks.

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Periodic Maintenance

1) Change engine oil and oil filter every 3,000 miles or every 3 months whichever comes first. At the time you are changing the oil, you should also inspect the air filter and the PCV filter. Replace these if dirty.
2) Do a monthly check of fluid levels and check for fluid leaks.
3) Do a monthly check of fan belt tension and condition.

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350ci/5.7L Engine Torque Specifications

Camshaft Sprocket Bolt/Screw - 18 ft.-lbs.
Connecting Rod Nut - .006 bolt stretch preferred 20 ft.-lbs + additional 55° (45 ft.-lbs. if no angle gauge available)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt/Screw - 63 ft.-lbs.
Crankshaft Balancer Pulley - 35 ft.-lbs.
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolt/Screw and Stud - Inner: 70 ft.-lbs, Outer: 65 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder Head Bolt/Screw - 65 ft.-lbs.
Distributor Bolt/Screw - 25 ft.-lbs.
Drain Plug - 15 in.-lbs.
Engine Oil Gallery Plug - 15 ft.-lbs.
Engine front Cover Bolt/Screw - 75 in.-lbs.
Exhaust Manifold Stud and Bolt/Screw - 26 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel Bolt/Screw - 65-70 ft.-lbs.
Intake Manifold Bolt/Screw:
First Pass - 15 ft.-lbs.
Final Pass - 35 ft.-lbs.
Oil Filter Adapter Bolt/Screw - 17 ft.-lbs.
Oil Level Indicator Tube Bolt/Screw - 106 in.-lbs.
Oil Pan Assembly:
Corner Nut/Bolt/Screw - 15 ft.-lbs.
Side Rail Bolt/Screw - 165 in.-lbs.
Oil Pan Drain Plug - 15 ft.-lbs.
Oil Pump Bolt/Screw To Rear Crankshaft Bearing Cap - 66 ft.-lbs.
Oil Pump Cover Bolt/Screw - 80 in.-lbs.
Spark Plug (Tapered Seat) - 15 ft.-lbs.
Starter Motor Bolt/Screw - 35 ft.-lbs.
Valve Rocker Arm Cover Bolt/Screw - 25 in.-lbs.
Water Pump Bolt/Screw and Stud - 30 ft.-lbs.

[ubtripn]

Thanks everyone. I drove it up a run that was full of hills for about 10 miles then back. I have gone up and down. I coasted downhill as well after reading this. I think I have avoided the wall glazing problem and will drive as normal (no racing) from here on out. Thanks agian for helping me.

I have a 700R4 abd she sure goes through the gears early. 3000 RPM = 75 MPH. She comes out of firt if I have 1/3 throttle around 10, then shifts at 25, 35 and then around 45.

So far it's running great. Thanks again.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

Thanks everyone. I drove it up a run that was full of hills for about 10 miles then back. I have gone up and down. I coasted downhill as well after reading this. I think I have avoided the wall glazing problem and will drive as normal (no racing) from here on out. Thanks agian for helping me.

I have a 700R4 abd she sure goes through the gears early. 3000 RPM = 75 MPH. She comes out of firt if I have 1/3 throttle around 10, then shifts at 25, 35 and then around 45.

So far it's running great. Thanks again.

Mine shifts at approx. 15-35-45-55

LockDoc

[ubtripn]

what tranny and rearend are you running?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

what tranny and rearend are you running?

It's a 2004r I put in the Suburban and the rear is a 3.73. It originally had a 3.07 rear in it but that didn't cut it.... Too high.

LockDoc

[ubtripn]

Gotcha, thanks!