5.3 w/ 4l60e & TBSS Manifolds

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by uxdesigner

Any recent swaps with this configuration?
I would like to use the same drive shaft if possible, just a thought.

Motor mounts that work with the TBSS manifolds?
I was thinking the ECE Sheet Metal but I've seen a few folks using the stock 70 perches with new mounts and adjustable brackets. LS1Nova71 has a great build but the mounts were custom, thanks for the build thread BTW!

EVAP?
Do you leave the sensor but disconnect or remove and block with something?

The "keep stock driveshaft" thing comes up a lot, but I don't really understand why. In the scope of whats being done, a new DS is easy to get made and fairly inexpensive. Depending what trans you have now, its likely yolk/joint end might need to be changed anyway. Also, this means you can put the engine where you want it, instead of letting the ds length determine motor position.

I used sbc mounts on the perches of my 66, then Transdapt plates on the SBC mounts. Cheap, works fine. Clearances can be tight, but my tbss manifolds clear fine and I have plenty of access to the plugs etc on the side.

You can plug the hole, or just unplug the sensor connection and leave it there to block the hole for you. As long as its removed from the PCM, it won't cause any error.

[uxdesigner]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

The "keep stock driveshaft" thing comes up a lot, but I don't really understand why. In the scope of whats being done, a new DS is easy to get made and fairly inexpensive. Depending what trans you have now, its likely yolk/joint end might need to be changed anyway. Also, this means you can put the engine where you want it, instead of letting the ds length determine motor position.

I used sbc mounts on the perches of my 66, then Transdapt plates on the SBC mounts. Cheap, works fine. Clearances can be tight, but my tbss manifolds clear fine and I have plenty of access to the plugs etc on the side.

You can plug the hole, or just unplug the sensor connection and leave it there to block the hole for you. As long as its removed from the PCM, it won't cause any error.

You are absolutely correct, I should be building for where the engine sits and get a new DS when ready. I think most of us are unsure what it costs for a new DS so we are intimidated and our short term goal is to get it to fit immediately. What does a new DS cost, estimate?

The line from the EVAP runs to the original tank. If I block the hole do I need to vent elsewhere? I've read about using a vent plug but again no part number.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by uxdesigner

You are absolutely correct, I should be building for where the engine sits and get a new DS when ready. I think most of us are unsure what it costs for a new DS so we are intimidated and our short term goal is to get it to fit immediately. What does a new DS cost, estimate?

The line from the EVAP runs to the original tank. If I block the hole do I need to vent elsewhere? I've read about using a vent plug but again no part number.

For the '82 C10 we did the swap in the driveshaft cost me $381.37 total.
That was for a new slip yoke ($87.70), new 3/5" steel tube, 2 new Spicer U-Joints, and both yokes (new) on the end of the tube ($293.67) all from my local drive line shop. I gave them the measurement from the end of the trans to the center of the yoke on the rearend and they built it in one afternoon.

I just plugged the hole and the manifold to eliminate the EVAP and removed the functions from the PCM. The tank I used had a separate vent on the gas tank itself.