Shortening front shackles?

[dubie]

I have 3" dropped mono leafs for the front and 6" reverse eye dropped mono's for the rear. If I were to go back to 16" rims with a bit taller tire up front, I wouldn't have near the clearance concerns I have right now.

If you lower your truck 3". then you will need a 4 degree caster shim, just to insure your wheel comes back to center after turning a corner. The adjustment in caster makes a HUGE difference to the way your truck will handle.

If i was to do it all over again, I would do the dropped axle, super slider leaf spring and keep the 16" rims. That would give me about 1-1/2" off added clearance than I have now but I would still be able to haul a load on the bed. With mono leafs, your load limit is cut drastically

[whitedog76]

Another thing to consider when lowering a solid axle truck, is the drag link.

It should be paralell to the ground when sitting. Otherwise you get alot of "bump steer."

Some guys have made their own by using offset tie rod ends. Others have bent the factory arm, which I don't recommend. Or, make an offset one out of DOM and screw in ends.

[MARTINSR]

And to clarify the whole drag link thing, here you go. Some how bending it to be parallal is not going to do it. On the one on the top of my drawing (sorry about pathetic art work) labeled "Stock", if you were to make that drag link shaped like a letter Z it would still work, because the pivot points are level. The pivot point is all that matters. If they aren't level they are going to follow a different arc as the last drawing shows.

And if the photo is on it's side, I am sorry. I rotated it in photo bucket but it takes a while or something for it work do the same where it's posted, I don't understand that but I have a flip phone so what do I know.


Brian

[gale]

I'm not a fan of lowering these old trucks or making choppers out of motorcycles and not just because of my taste.

A LOT of engineering time went into developing something that works well. Seems like nonsense to butcher that design to achieve someone's version of cool.

I don't think I've ever left anything as it came from the factory but my changes are cosmetic.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by gale

I'm not a fan of lowering these old trucks or making choppers out of motorcycles and not just because of my taste.

A LOT of engineering time went into developing something that works well. Seems like nonsense to butcher that design to achieve someone's version of cool.

I don't think I've ever left anything as it came from the factory but my changes are cosmetic.

I am with you somewhat in that I believe a lot of cars and trucks get MUCH too much modification to things like the frames and suspension because it is of the norm now to do it like it HAS to be done. Like drum brakes have no place in todays world. When in actually it is drum brakes have no place in how the average person drives because they don't leave enough room to stop! It hasn't a friggin thing with "speed" it has to do with how much room is left! I have studied this subject now for a few years leaving me fascinated with how people drive to the absolute maximum their brakes can still limit a collision! I have studied many parts of traffic in that you can't go faster than traffic, you are a part of a mass. Yet people drive one car length away from the car in front of them like this is going to get them there faster!

Sooooooo, my point of this rant is that todays traffic is not one bit different than it was 50 years ago! The DIFFERENCE is how people see it.

Ok, that and the other issue with modifying cars and trucks is what are the owners expectations and does he even know what his expectations are? Has he even driven the car when it was stock and in good condition? How does he KNOW he has to have disc brakes? How does he KNOW he has to have an independent suspension? Most builders don't, they THINK they need to make all these up grades like the darn car is going to fall apart if they hit these "modern" streets with their 1950 car or truck, like the thing can't handle it or something. Then with the whole "what if my truck breaks down on the road, where will I get parts?" Like they are going to rebuild the engine on the side of the interstate or something! Maintain your truck and it's not a problem.

That all being said, these trucks are pretty simply and the geometry is easy to understand and CAN be modified properly. One sure as heck doesn't need to replace the frame because they need to have disc brakes.

Brian

[gale]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

And to clarify the whole drag link thing, here you go. Some how bending it to be parallal is not going to do it. On the one on the top of my drawing (sorry about pathetic art work) labeled "Stock", if you were to make that drag link shaped like a letter Z it would still work, because the pivot points are level. The pivot point is all that matters. If they aren't level they are going to follow a different arc as the last drawing shows.

Brian

The cab is off my '54 and I just went out to look at the clearance where the steering arm passes over the axle and there is only about 1/2" so that point can't be lowered. Since the drag link needs to remain as level as possible it follows that the steering box needs to be raised as much as the axle is dropped.

[dubie]

after dropping mine by 6" I heated my steering arm and bent it to make the drag link parallel. As long as you don't rush the process and heat the spot cherry red and make your bend, it all works out nicely. I haven't had a single instance of bump steer since I started driving it.

I have see guys build a modified drag ling so they were able to rotate the end to fit from the under side of the steering arm to prevent having to make any mods to the arm. Like the one pictured here. THIS is a great idea, I wish I would have seen it before I did mine

[gale]

Can you post a side view?

[dubie]

I have a couple other shots of it, but you may want to check the link I put up for Devlin to look at and click on page 5. You still need to heat the hole in the steering arm and reverse the taper to make it work right

[MARTINSR]

There are issues with heating that though! Heat it slowly, heat a large area and let it cool naturally. I am no metallurgist but I believe that would be the best way to affect that metal the least amount. But a little study is HIGHLY recommended.

My brother had a 39 Ford coupe that had that mod done before he got it. He had raced it at drags running 13's at 100 mph and had driven it all over when one day he was pulling into the driveway after a high speed run 20 miles or so up the freeway to get a part. As he pulled into the driveway he put it in reverse after he decided to go around the front of the shop instead, the steering wheel spun in his hands! That steering arm had broken clean off!
double


Brian

[dubie]

Yup, I've heard of that happening. I have a spare steering arm and will be looking to fabricate a set up such as this adjustable drag link, just in case these one does break

[LordDevlin]

Thanks guys for all the help and insight. Looks like Im going to progress slowly and in steps, as I too am used to driving old original trucks, so I dont want to affect the driveability too much as well as functionality. That being said, I am going to start wtih some lowering springs and any other little mods that need to be done to make it still handle as well as it can. Other than the shims that Dubie mentioned that I had read about before when looking to drop the axle, are there other things I should take into account? This drag link mod, is it going to be an issue with just doing lowered springs or is it a dropped axle concern?

Of course I will be getting some shorter shocks.

Thanks for your time.