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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman, ME
Posts: 2,404
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Re: LED Taillights, Diy
Quote:
I took a quick look through the LM2940 datasheet from your 2nd link and it appears as though it would be a good choice for your application. In fact, the description on the first page says it's designed for vehicular applications and has built-in protection against reverse polarity, transient voltage spikes, etc. so that's a plus. The low 0.5V dropout or "overhead" is also good for your application. That means the regulator only needs a 0.5V difference between the input & output to maintain regulation. In other words, you'll have the full 12V output you're expecting as long as the input stays above 12.5V ... that's much better than the NTE1970's 14.8V min requirement. As long as your truck's charging system is working properly, you shouldn't have to worry about input voltages lower than that. But as you can see from the "low voltage behavior" (figure 21 on the LM2940 datasheet), it's a fairly linear drop-off once the input goes below about 12V. So a low battery situation would allow the LEDs to dim, but the regulator isn't going to suddenly "switch off" under those conditions. Quote:
So basically, take that "typical application" circuit for the LM2940 and substitute it into your original diagram in place of the NTE1970 & the 2 capacitors and you should be all set. But if that doesn't make any sense, just let me know and I can draw up a diagram for you. Finally, your original circuit shows 56Ω resistors in series with each LED string. That's a good value to use for a 12V input, but like Dead Parrot pointed out earlier, don't forget about the voltage drop from the diodes being used to isolate the tail from the brake/turn circuits. With silicon diodes (0.7V drop) you'll only have 11.3V available to the LEDs. So you'll need smaller current limiting resistors in order to maintain the full rated 20mA through the LEDs. I'm calculating 15Ω resistors for five 2.2V, 20mA LEDs in series with an 11.3V supply. |
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