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#1 |
Member #1049
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Troy Montana
Posts: 3,940
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Re: Converting a k-5 4x4 to a 2wd
Converting one does involve a good amount of work, I have done 26 conversions in the last 30 years, I have done it in every conceivable configuration, from using OEM donor parts, to aftermarket crossmembers to 4 link rear suspension, The easiest and least costly way is to use a 71/72 donor truck.
I usually charge $2500 (including donor parts) to do the basic conversion. |
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#2 | |
resident oilfield trash
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lubbock TX
Posts: 1,465
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Re: Converting a k-5 4x4 to a 2wd
Quote:
__________________
1967 SWB C10 396/400 factory air factory tach (sadly had to send to a new home) 1986 Honda 70 Fourtrax 1991 Chevrolet K5 blazer 2wd 1982 Mastercraft Pro Star 190 Stars and Stripes 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe 2011 Nissan Armada ![]() |
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#3 | |
resident oilfield trash
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lubbock TX
Posts: 1,465
|
Re: Converting a k-5 4x4 to a 2wd
Quote:
__________________
1967 SWB C10 396/400 factory air factory tach (sadly had to send to a new home) 1986 Honda 70 Fourtrax 1991 Chevrolet K5 blazer 2wd 1982 Mastercraft Pro Star 190 Stars and Stripes 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe 2011 Nissan Armada ![]() |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Seaside,CA
Posts: 143
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Re: Converting a k-5 4x4 to a 2wd
I used a 1980 front crossmember, ECE springs, factory trailing arms(welded), no limit rear shock kit(did not fit per instructions but I made it work), and everything else cpp(A arms, trans crossmember, trailing arm crossmember, panhard bar, for the rear coil mounts I used the crossmember from the forward rear leaf springs mounts and built off of that to center the rear coils just outside of the frame rail. I still need a notch in the rear(only about an inch of travel). It all took me about a month and a buttload of money. I followed gringoloco's instructions on the rear setup and it aligned dead on and rear wheels are centered nice in openings. Go for it, you will not regret it. I would do it again. It is stressful measuring and drilling holes but if you do the research here you will find the answers. Worst part for me was drilling holes in top of frame rail in the rear with the body on. Had to use shortest drill bits I could find and a right angle drill. The front is easy, the rear sucked. I would remove the body next time if possible. Have Fun!
Pictures are a little cattywampus there, oh well. |
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