Can I replace rear shock studs (leaf rear)?

[brossow]

PROBLEM SOLVED! See follow-up post below for solution.

The threads are severely messed up (beyond repair) on one of the rear shock studs on my '72 SWB leaf spring truck (2WD). Are these replaceable? If so, where can I find the replacement studs? Looked at the various FLAPS online (NAPA, AutoZone, etc.) as well as the usual aftermarket sources (LMC, ECE, etc.) and can't find a listing. Found the front studs at ECE but that's it.

And if not, what are my options beyond finding a good donor? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Brent

[cdowns]

i've bought shock mounting studs from speedway motors in the past

[OhioDan]

I had one broken off. I ground down what was left, and then drilled the hole larger and used a shock mount for the front. Works great.

[Orange]

In a set of KYB's I bought they came with them.
I suppose they are a common part really. Just find one with the diameter x length you need. Nothing too specific about it.

I'll look and see if I still have those. If I do (and they are good for the rear) I'll send them up to you.

DLB

[brossow]

Solved my own problem with a trip to NAPA. Hanging with all their other "Help!"-type stuff was PN 650-1100 -- "Shock Absorber Bushing" -- that was identical to the original welded-in stud in dimensions and function. The shoulder fit exactly in the existing hole with absolutely no modification. Pics below show my solution. In a nutshell, I used a reciprocating saw to cut the old studs off flush, then used a grinder to smooth things out. No need to drill out the old stud since there's another hole available -- I'll just use the other hole and swap the brackets from one side to the other. Spent some time in the blasting cabinet followed by a coat of Rust Encapsulator. Will finish with a couple coats of Chassis Black tomorrow afternoon and bolt 'em up on Saturday.

Thanks for all the input! Lessons learned: (1) sometimes going to a brick-n-mortar store beats the heck out of shopping online and (2) not every problem has an application-specific solution.

[OhioDan]

I tried that. The bottom of the shock will hit the differential, due to the angle of shock, making it difficult to mount shocks. After a little use, the bottom of the shock nearest the differential will become caved in.(potential failure?)

[brossow]

Originally Posted by OhioDan

I tried that. The bottom of the shock will hit the differential, due to the angle of shock, making it difficult to mount shocks. After a little use, the bottom of the shock nearest the differential will become caved in.(potential failure?)

I'm not sure what you're talking about, I guess. The stud will be in the same position -- I'm just putting the bracket originally on the driver's side on the passenger side instead and vice versa. In effect I've just filled the unused hole.

[kwmech]

been there, just be sure that the shock stud you put in stays tight. What I did on my 1 ton after the shock stud came loose and oblonged the hole was, I drilled out the hole from 1/2'' to 9/16 and continued the hole into the frame rail. Then I bought a 6-1/2'' bolt and brought it from the outside of the frame rail, and then tack welded it into place. Then purchased new shocks that had the 9/16 bushing on the upper end. I have pics I can post if anybody is interested

[OhioDan]

Originally Posted by brossow

I'm not sure what you're talking about, I guess. The stud will be in the same position -- I'm just putting the bracket originally on the driver's side on the passenger side instead and vice versa. In effect I've just filled the unused hole.

I wasn't aware you already had them out of the truck. I thought you were going to use the rear hole. Sorry to mislead you, or tell you wrong. If you're swapping them side/side, then you should be good to go.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by OhioDan

I wasn't aware you already had them out of the truck. I thought you were going to use the rear hole. Sorry to mislead you, or tell you wrong. If you're swapping them side/side, then you should be good to go.

Ahh, I see. You musta skipped over the pics.

[badpeanut]

Originally Posted by kwmech

been there, just be sure that the shock stud you put in stays tight. What I did on my 1 ton after the shock stud came loose and oblonged the hole was, I drilled out the hole from 1/2'' to 9/16 and continued the hole into the frame rail. Then I bought a 6-1/2'' bolt and brought it from the outside of the frame rail, and then tack welded it into place. Then purchased new shocks that had the 9/16 bushing on the upper end. I have pics I can post if anybody is interested

Please do post pics!

[brossow]

Here are a couple pics of my brackets reinstalled.

[skchevota]

Originally Posted by OhioDan

I tried that. The bottom of the shock will hit the differential, due to the angle of shock, making it difficult to mount shocks. After a little use, the bottom of the shock nearest the differential will become caved in.(potential failure?)

In the solution post it was stated to swap the brackets from side to side so the new stud will be in the original position.

[silver7]

I know this thread is nearly 1 1/2 years old but I wanted to say thanks to you brossow for putting this thread together with a lot of informative pictures. I needed to help with my build so I searched and found this thread. These shock bolts/bushings you recommended worked like a charm.

Here is my thread if interested. Thanks again for the help.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by silver7

I know this thread is nearly 1 1/2 years old but I wanted to say thanks to you brossow for putting this thread together with a lot of informative pictures. I needed to help with my build so I searched and found this thread. These shock bolts/bushings you recommended worked like a charm.

Here is my thread if interested. Thanks again for the help.

Glad it helped! This is precisely why I posted the info -- wanted to give a little back to the board that's helped me so much with my own project.

Brent

[badpeanut]

Here are some observations I wish to contribute to this helpful thread:

• '69 GMC two-wheel drive (leaf spring) uses 7/16 fine thread on the upper shock bolts
• '72 Chevy four-wheel drive uses 1/2 coarse thread on the upper shock bolts
• Napa 650-1100 is listed as 1/2 fine thread

[badpeanut]

Originally Posted by badpeanut

Here are some observations I wish to contribute to this helpful thread:

• '69 GMC two-wheel drive (leaf spring) uses 7/16" fine thread on the upper shock bolts
• '72 Chevy four-wheel drive uses 1/2" coarse thread on the upper shock bolts
• Napa 650-1100 is listed as 1/2" fine thread

Update after buying and installing a Napa 650-1100 this afternoon: the shock mounting threads are 7/16" fine just like the two-wheel drive (leaf spring) truck original. (The 1/2" fine threads listed on the Napa website are on the end where it mounts to the frame bracket.)

[JointTech]

great post. thanks. sure wish my bed was off so I could replace the bracket. Im going to just cut the stud and drill a hole while upside down on my head under the truck !!!

[JointTech]

well it wasnt hard but it was kind of scary. The gas tank is a saddle tank on that side. And theres lots of sparks.
started here:


cut that sucker off with the cutoff tool:


Double security with goggles and face shield cause im a wuss.


Drilled it out with a step bit. I really should have ground that down but I was just waiting for the gas tank to explode and the shock fit without twisting...


keep away the rust


Done. Only took me 4 hours. Im really slow...

[brossow]

Good job! Fully functional and no one injured. :-)

[BlacklandCamper]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!

I just learned today that this is an issue I have to deal with, you just saved me a metric $h17 ton of strife and worry.