oil pump drive

[Steeveedee]

OK, a first for me. It's been awhile (13+ years) since I had an SBC apart. I had to put a crankshaft in a 305 (in my Buick Skylark, shoot me now, ha ha!). I waited to prime the oil pump because I have to have the oil filter removed to install the headers. Long story short, when I primed the oil pump and removed the tool, the drive shaft between the pump and the distributor came out with the tool. So, question- how do I reinsert the driveshaft into the pump without taking the pan off, which means removing the engine? I haven't shined a light down the hole yet to see if the nylon barrel is still on the pump. Damn, I'm lazy, first for not looking and then asking instead of figuring it out for myself. Anyway, any far more experienced Chevy guys have an easy answer, beyond "You should have primed it on the engine stand, when you had a chance!"?

Otherwise, there goes my next day off to R&R the thing.

[myyamr7]

Not sure how you will get that in there, maybe try dropping it down the hole with one of those magnet sticks? Should be able to relase the magnet by twisting and pulling at the same time. Honestly, I'd pull the pan off and install the drive rod with a steel collar.
Priming it on the engine stand is better than nothing, but the oil will still drain back into the pan. For a prime to be effective, as soon as you're hooked up and ready to start, pull the distributor, prime it, drop it back in and start it

[cool68]

have the hood off?

[cool68]

have the hood off to work on it?

[Steeveedee]

That's what I did. But the tool appears to be brand new and it bound on the drive shaft and pulled it out, in spite of the nylon collar's snap-in feature. I've built engines for years and have never had this happen. Admittedly, it's been awhile, since I now work as a mechanical engineer.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by cool68

have the hood off to work on it?

I can get the hood off again, but I think I can see into the block, if that's what you mean. I didn't need the hood off to run the priming tool. I ain't running it again; it doesn't need it. It probably didn't need it the first time, since I poured oil into the sump screen and hand-turned the pump before I installed it.

This is a case where being really anal about the oiling system is going to cost me.

[brad_man_72]

I know you can't install the drive shaft with the metal collar from the top. I learned that one after I had the engine bolted in my boat. I got to stand on my head for a couple of days to let that lesson sink in.

[Daman]

As others have said, never use the nylon.

Never would've slipped the metal collar.

Pull the pan!

For future reference I always prime on the engine stand. Then you can stab it and start it

[jjzepplin]

I once had an issue where the engine builder forgot to put the oil drive in. I just pulled the nylon off and slipped it in from the top and never had an issue with it as the nylon just keeps it from coming out when you pull the dizzy. Block and dizzy keeps it aligned.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

I once had an issue where the engine builder forgot to put the oil drive in. I just pulled the nylon off and slipped it in from the top and never had an issue with it as the nylon just keeps it from coming out when you pull the dizzy. Block and dizzy keeps it aligned.

This is what I'm thinking, based on the wears marks on the driveshaft. I'm going to tackle this Friday, if I get that day off (9/80 work schedule) or Saturday morning. I have nothing to lose.

I've been up since 2 AM, and it's after 6 PM, and I have a cold. So, I'm not anxious to try this while I'm on drugs (Benadryl- it only takes one 25 mg pill to make me instant stupid). So, Friday, maybe.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Daman

As others have said, never use the nylon.

Never would've slipped the metal collar.

Pull the pan!

For future reference I always prime on the engine stand. Then you can stab it and start it

I also asked a fellow mechanical engineer at work this question, and he said that he just cranks it up, without doing the priming. But he's a MOPAR guy, so, whatever.

Part of me says, "Do it right!", and the other part of me says, "Eff it!". Kind of like in the cartoons with a devil on one shoulder and an angel on the other. The real reason I put the crankshaft in was so I could sell the whole magilla with a clear conscience, as I'm taking it out from fan to tail shaft to put my Skylark back to Buick originality. If I hadn't changed the crank, I could have possibly gotten less money for the combination. After spending two days and buying parts, I should have just told the prospective buyer that the engine needs rebuilding, and taken the cost hit. I'd actually be money ahead, since I could have been earning money instead of replacing the crank. Just shows how trying to be a nice guy can turn out. It has an Edelbrock Cam, Carb and intake, plus a rebuilt 350 trans with maybe 5000 miles on it. Again, I can drive it as-is, but I want to restore the thing to original engine power. I bought another car (4-door rust-bucket) that's going to donate everything from the A/C condenser to the differential (and the frame, though I have to shorten it for a 2-door).

[Bigdav160]

Doyou think the OEM's prime the millions of engines installed every year?

[Steeveedee]

In the sense that they all have lubrication on the wearing parts, yes. And they fire every one, too, or at least they used to, before the engine was shipped to the assembly plant.