What gear ratio should i go with?

[sir_talk_alot]

Well heres the deal, for now the 350 in the truck runs pretty good. I may buy a new motor for it this fall or winter or have one built. Something with some decent torque. Im not mud boggin all the time. but i do like to use the truck to play and pull stuff. Mainly i just dont want a dog of a truck off the line. Id like to get on it am it move, hop on the interstate and go to another town, just a good hard working truck. Id like to mainly take strain off my trans and engine to allow them to not work as hard. With the 35s and 373s now if you get on it, its not exactly the fastest. Takes a bit to spool up. Im just wondering if i should go ahead and do 456s to give it some good down low grunt. Whats the best budget locker that i can upgrade my rearend with? And then i guess buy gears? All this gov bomb talk has me concerned the first time i take my rig out its gonna exploded. Maybe between this year and next i can hunt for craigslist deals to do a 14sf swap and looking into a sas. I looked in my glove box and couldnt find any g80 code listed anywhere.

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

Well heres the deal, for now the 350 in the truck runs pretty good. I may buy a new motor for it this fall or winter or have one built. Something with some decent torque. Im not mud boggin all the time. but i do like to use the truck to play and pull stuff. Mainly i just dont want a dog of a truck off the line. Id like to get on it am it move, hop on the interstate and go to another town, just a good hard working truck. Id like to mainly take strain off my trans and engine to allow them to not work as hard. With the 35s and 373s now if you get on it, its not exactly the fastest. Takes a bit to spool up. Im just wondering if i should go ahead and do 456s to give it some good down low grunt. Whats the best budget locker that i can upgrade my rearend with? And then i guess buy gears? All this gov bomb talk has me concerned the first time i take my rig out its gonna exploded. Maybe between this year and next i can hunt for craigslist deals to do a 14sf swap and looking into a sas. I looked in my glove box and couldnt find any g80 code listed anywhere.

Looks like you have an open diff. The G80 would be right next to the GT4 code. I was pretty happy with the Detroit Trutrac I had, but if I had to do it over again, I'd go with the Full Detroit locker.

I would recommend holding off on the locker until you can do gears at the same time. (avoid paying for labor twice).

attached is a pic of my old truck.

[sir_talk_alot]

Originally Posted by beckmand78

Looks like you have an open diff. The G80 would be right next to the GT4 code. I was pretty happy with the Detroit Trutrac I had, but if I had to do it over again, I'd go with the Full Detroit locker.

I would recommend holding off on the locker until you can do gears at the same time. (avoid paying for labor twice).

attached is a pic of my old truck.

Thats a sweet truck i love the bumper. Wish i could get something like that for my rig. Well i plan on buying a locker and gears at the same time. So im looking to see whats the best deals and figured out what to get in order to have someone do it. So with having an open diff, that basically means i dont have to worry about exploding gov bomb, and its a one tire fire. So which locker should i go with? And looking for just a basic ring and pinion kit?

[beckmand78]

Thanks man, I kinda miss it. I think I paid like 700 for that bumper and 4 KC lights.

I ordered my gears and rebuild kit from summit. i wanted to have everything like new so I never had to worry. If you shop around on prices you can find great deals on great parts.

The Detroit trutrac doesnt actually "locK" the wheels together. its a bias traction device. Thats the only reason Id get a full Detroit locker next time.

Detroit trutrac- cheaper, totally quiet, bias traction
Detroit locker- expensive, somewhat noisy, max traction

Of course, there's other reputable brands like Yukon and Auburn.
But id stay away from "lunchbox" lockers, theyre weak.

[sir_talk_alot]

What size front and rear does this truck come with? Seems theres several different options for size and spline count for my truck. How are the lockrights? Are they like the detroit true tracks or is that a lunchbox?

[sir_talk_alot]

Anyone used this? Is it something to use or just a gimic. This truck has become so much more of a hassle than my old 70 c10. I need to stick with 2wds.

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

What size front and rear does this truck come with? Seems theres several different options for size and spline count for my truck. How are the lockrights? Are they like the detroit true tracks or is that a lunchbox?

That style would be a lunchbox locker. They function similar to a Detroit but are more noisy and weak.

Your truck should be 8.6 IFS in the front and 8.5 in the rear. (i think) If you call summit when you're ready they will help out a lot. I just looked up my receipt and i paid $933 for everything except the axle bearings for the rear. those were another $50.

randy's ring and pinion is a good place too

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

Anyone used this? Is it something to use or just a gimic. This truck has become so much more of a hassle than my old 70 c10. I need to stick with 2wds.

These do work, but it keeps the driver's axle engaged all the time. I would leave the front as a open differential and just regear.

[sir_talk_alot]

Yea i figured i was going to be running in the neighborhood of a grand. Then i guess ill take it to a shop to be installed. How hard is it to replace the front ring and pinion? Can i do that myself. I am mechanically inclined. The rear ill take to someone but if replacing ring an pinion for the front isnt hard i may try it. What kind of a mess am i up against?

[beckmand78]

I would definitely have it done if you haven't rebuild one before. you need a press, dial indicator, feeler gauges, etc. to do it correctly. I think I could have done it, but i didn't feel like a 1000 dollar gamble. Front and rear are pretty much the same difficulty.

Setting them up wrong can range from premature wear to the differential exploding on the highway.

Like i said above, See if the shop will give a discount for you bringing them just the differentials.

Just an example, a big driveline shop here in town wanted 800 labor alone to do my diffs. I walked out.

[sir_talk_alot]

Ok, well i think ill just save myself the headache. So my best bet would be the detroit truetrac and new front and rear ring and pinion. Anything else i need to buy? Is there an install kit or bearing kit i need?

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

Ok, well i think ill just save myself the headache. So my best bet would be the detroit truetrac and new front and rear ring and pinion. Anything else i need to buy? Is there an install kit or bearing kit i need?

I would get all the bearings and seals while youre at it. Then never worry again.

The truetrac is great but just make sure its the one you want.

[hotstuff]

With a 35 tall tire 3.73=2328 rpm / 4.11 = 2565 rpm / 4.56 = 2845

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by hotstuff

With a 35 tall tire 3.73=2328 rpm / 4.11 = 2565 rpm / 4.56 = 2845

With what transmission? At what speed? 85mph?

[hotstuff]

its off a old chart i had laying around , final drive in trans was 1 to 1 . speed = tire o.d. [inches ] X engine RPM X .002975 divided by final drive ratio

[hotstuff]

beckmand78 did you do the math ? you end up at 64.9 MPH , What I was showing was the different RPMs you would run by just changing gears and keeping everything else the same

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by hotstuff

its off a old chart i had laying around , final drive in trans was 1 to 1 . speed = tire o.d. [inches ] X engine RPM X .002975 divided by final drive ratio

his overdrive gear is 0.7. so that means 35inch tires with 4.56 gears at 70mph are 2100 rpm? according to formula

sounds a little low, but close. Like i said, I think mine was right about 2300rpm at 70.

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by hotstuff

beckmand78 did you do the math ? you end up at 64.9 MPH , What I was showing was the different RPMs you would run by just changing gears and keeping everything else the same

ill have to do the math the hard way haha. i think that constant of .0022... is off a bit. Ill check it when I get home. Ive got a notebook from when I was figuring all this out with my truck.

[hotstuff]

My old notes are old like me , from when i used to drag race , so please update me.

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by hotstuff

My old notes are old like me , from when i used to drag race , so please update me.

Hey, thats how it used to be! Sorry if i sounded like a d*ck. My notes say 2146 rpm with a TRUE 35" tire and 4.56 gears.

That was using 0.7 overdrive, 4.56 gears, 35 inch tire, at 70mph.

[sir_talk_alot]

So then 456s is what i want it sounds like, because thats a prett decent cruise rpm for the interstate. Unless yall think i should go 488?

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

So then 456s is what i want it sounds like, because thats a prett decent cruise rpm for the interstate. Unless yall think i should go 488?

i debated 4.88's too. For around town itd be awesome but I drove mostly highway so i chose 4.56's

[sir_talk_alot]

Originally Posted by beckmand78

i debated 4.88's too. For around town itd be awesome but I drove mostly highway so i chose 4.56's

How is take off with the 456s? And playing around? Can you get tires squalin easy?

[beckmand78]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

How is take off with the 456s? And playing around? Can you get tires squalin easy?

Acceleration has a little better than stock but if youre looking to be burning the tires off you may want to build another truck. Lifted trucks arent suppose to be fast.

[sir_talk_alot]

Id just like to get on it and move so i should be ok with the 456s. I definitly appreciate everyones help. I think im gonna stash for the next month or two and try to get all the parts i need at one time.