60-66 Stepside rear step bumper modification

[WhippinSaw]

Thanks for the carpenter square suggestion, I got a good look at it and noticed my fender with the spare tire cutout is narrower than the other. Never noticed that before, barely noticeable in the pic. That side will have a shorter bumper than the other. I have a metal super mart close by, looks like I need 2 pieces of 1/8" diamond plate steel 12" x 24" and 2 pieces of 1/4" X 4" flat stock steel 2 foot long before I start cutting. If you get a chance could you post a couple of rear close ups so I can better visualize that molded area like the pic below. Thanks murphy98

[3/4ton Randy]

This is a great thread guys! I will soon be starting on my own rear bumper on my longbed stepside. Your's turned out great.

[murphy98]

Originally Posted by 3/4ton Randy

This is a great thread guys! I will soon be starting on my own rear bumper on my longbed stepside. Your's turned out great.

Thanks 3/4ton Randy, good luck with your bumper, post some before and after pics when you are done.

[WhippinSaw]

Thanks murphy98, Yes that helps, still seems that I am to low, I cut off the diamond plate to 55 1/4 and am going to remount the bumper after I clean it up so I can lay some new diamond plate on the top of the bumper to see where it ends up on the fender. I want to cut it like yours under the diamond plate vertical riser like the picture below to rid a little more rust and smooth it out, I think thats on a straight line with the bed then too. I think its 3 inches, could you confirm when you get a chance.

[murphy98]

Checking my bumper measurement from the edge of the vertical diamond plate to the factory weld seam I get 2 3/4", the distance from the factory weld seam to the outer edge of the bumper is 12". The new diamond plate pieces I used to fill in the new section were exactly 12" x 24" which worked out perfectly for my bumper. Because your bumper was originally for a feetside, not sure if the factory weld seem would have been in the same location as the stepside version? Let me know if you need any more dimensions, your progress is coming along nicely!

[murphy98]

Oh, by the way WhippinSaw, I see in your second photo above that your bumper has an upper hitch ball plate. Mine had the same setup but I chose to cut out the upper plate in order to allow my rear license plate to be mounted there as I did not like the original mounting on top of the bumper left side as shown in the 2nd photo below. Not saying you should do the same but something to consider. I forgot to mention that modification in my original write up.

[WhippinSaw]

Thanks for posting the description of the bumper tips. Your picture from the bottom of the compound bend and your description made it all click. I made a tip out of 1/8" flat stock and thinking of welding 6 inches of that tip onto thicker flat stock or channel and hiding the seam under the diamond plate. The compound bend not only made the bottom curve In, but it also curved the whole edge. I put the flat stock in a vise and tightened it at one and pushed until 45 degrees in the picture , lowered it to two and pulled it 45 degrees, then lowered it to three pushed it as needed. I also think I got a good measurement. The bumper is flush with the bottom of the fender and everything looks good so far. I might need to cut more than 2 3/4 off the diamond plate to get rid of the distortion from the rust, but I don't think that should be a problem.
Thanks again murphy98

[murphy98]

Originally Posted by WhippinSaw

Thanks for the carpenter square suggestion, I got a good look at it and noticed my fender with the spare tire cutout is narrower than the other. Never noticed that before, barely noticeable in the pic. That side will have a shorter bumper than the other. I have a metal super mart close by, looks like I need 2 pieces of 1/8" diamond plate steel 12" x 24" and 2 pieces of 1/4" X 4" flat stock steel 2 foot long before I start cutting. If you get a chance could you post a couple of rear close ups so I can better visualize that molded area like the pic below. Thanks murphy98

Here are some pics of the contoured tip of the bumper side rails where it meets the fender, hope these help? It's only about the last 2-2 1/2" of the bottom portion of the tip that is bent (sort of a compound curve top to bottom of the edge & horizontally a couple of inches from the end) to match the contour of the fender. I took the last pic from underneath so you can see how it bends in to fit the shape of the fender. The top edge is straight all the way. Bottom edge of the bumper side rail should be flush with the bottom of the fender. In other words you should not be able to see the bottom of the fender dropping below the bottom of the bumper side extension. Obviously, I did not have to deal with making these contoured tips as I was able to reuse my original tips however it may be helpful to use a scrap piece of thinner metal or tin to make up a sample of the tip before trying to shape the thicker steel piece.