Back to the Basics: Re-Sealing a leaky power steering box

[Tx Firefighter]

Sure,

Just slip the coupler back down onto the input shaft (to act as a knob) and spin the box lock to lock. Then turn back to the center from there.

[chevy72blu]

I really wish this board still had a reputation system. Tx Firefighter you make some of the best posts on this site. Thank you for your hard work!

I've been debating whether to rebuild to replace my box... leaks a bit but the bigger concern is there is quite a bit of play in it.

[STPrider]

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

I really wish this board still had a reputation system. Tx Firefighter you make some of the best posts on this site. Thank you for your hard work!

I've been debating whether to rebuild to replace my box... leaks a bit but the bigger concern is there is quite a bit of play in it.

I have the same problem with the play in my steering box! Not sure if I should bite the bullet and replace it...

[darkhorse970]

Very informative, Kevin do you have any ideas if we don't know what year /application our steering box is from? Know of any resources for shaft dimensions or any other identifiers?

[bollybib]

Kevin,

I just read thru this thread. Great job ! I love reading about basic stuff like this and you have tons of pics, too. My truck's gear box isn't leaking but I'm planning on rebuilding the manual gearbox on my Vette soon and I came across your thread while searching for rebuild info.

Take care,

Jim

[jkeating1]

TXfirefighter: do you have a thread on re-sealing the pump? I've searched but nothing came up. Your steering gear thread is excellent.

I was preparing to remove the box and tear into it, but after a trip to the car wash to clean the whole system I could see it was coming from above instead. I would suggest that first step to all, BTW.

I would also note that, if at some time in your truck's life, on the return line, someone has either (A) used too large of a worm drive hose clamp, or (B) re-used the full-circumference factory clamps beyond their service life; either one might seem tight at the screw, but loose around the hose.

Back to the job at hand (fixing the leaking pump)--it seems intuitive. I just don't want to overlook anything. Mine has the remote reservoir, so that reduces the places to leak.

[v30crewcab]

I usually get the bigger complete kit, and change the upper and lower bearing as well. I've had a few lowers real loose. tightens them up nice.
heres a link to a total box rebuild. also tells you how to properly adjust them too. they're not rocket science inside!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...build-how.html

[Love 70 Chevys]

Awesome write-up! Got my truck running for the first time in 15 years this weekend and the non-pitman bearing spewed out all the fresh new fluid in about five minutes. Your write-up is really going to make this a fun little project. I like the way you explain things. (Twice even!)

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

I really wish this board still had a reputation system. Tx Firefighter you make some of the best posts on this site. Thank you for your hard work!

...

I concur!!!

[portrodder]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Sure,

Just slip the coupler back down onto the input shaft (to act as a knob) and spin the box lock to lock. Then turn back to the center from there.

Thanks Tx Firefighter will give it a try this weekend.