1966 Chevy C-10 New project-need help

[Brocko]

Captainfab,

thanks for the info! but yup local store around me cost around $45 for those parts! I think a carb rebuild kit is a good idea. As well as inline filter. I didn't even think about a transmission filter but I'm glad you mentioned it! That along with fluid should get me running well! So as far as smooth cruising, here what I have in my knowledge. As far as same driving. These are the things I have in mind that I need to complete. If I miss anything please let me know!

In order of how I plan to do them-

1)I have to complete my drum brake installation all the way around.
2)Replace ignition points,condenser,cap, and rotor.
3)Follow through with carb rebuild kit.
4)New fuel filter.
5)Changing transmission filter. As well as adding new transmission fluid.
6)Empty the gas tank (even though the gas is new) because I need to get the rust out/sludge.
7)Possibly new sender unit installation.
8) I'm kind of out of ideas! I'm thinking I might need new suspension? not sure. And I'll probably need to rewire headlights/tailights etc.

Is there any big surprises I may come along? As far as a healthy engine and quality drive. I don't know everything beforehand I'm kind learning new things I have to fix everyday!


66 Submarine-
Thanks for the site info! I was looking at Rockauto.com and noticed the bare replacement pieces mentioned before (condenser,points,cap,rotor) would only cost me 9.61 before shipping. Seems unbelievable to me!

Quick Question. Can you explain this further I'm having trouble understanding.

"Best thing is a replacement, but I cleaned mine with a chain and still haven't plugged a fuel filter in several thousand miles (I always like to add a metal in-line filter with paper element before carb); didn't do that to another and it plugged filters every 100 miles or so IIRC, and did that for a few thousand miles until it kind of stopped."by 66Submarine.

Thanks guys! Brock

[Brocko]

By the way heres some progress pics before after! About an hour or two of Simple Green applied to engine area. It's a start.

I will be adding a new filter soon so please don't mind that missing component!

[Brocko]

Something I learned the hard way. I put the Simple Green concentrate on the engine while it was kinda dry. That along with a wire brush that has pretty hard, I took off some of the original gray paint on engine. I'll probably repaint this later on but anyway I learned the hard way.

[Brocko]

So today I finished my rear drum brake installation. I also removed my carb and and going to rebuild it soon.

What do I need to rebuild my carb?

Thanks, Brock.

[Brocko]

Just bought a fuel filter! I have no idea where it goes.???

[Captainfab]

You're going to need a rebuild kit for the model of carb you have. The numbers on that little metal tag will have the numbers the parts guy needs to get you the correct kit. You will also need a way to clean the carb. The best way is to get a gallon can of carb dip. If that is not possible, then the aerosol cans will work. It is also helpful to have compressed air to blow out the passages. The fuel filter goes on the inside of the fuel inlet fitting.

[jtrichard]

you should also put an inline filter just before the fuel pump keeps all the crap out of the pump and will keep your carb filter cleaner longer

[Brocko]

Helllllllll yeahhhhh guyssssss I'm on cloud nine. I thought my truck ran well before. I rebuilt the whole carb myself honestly wasn't too hard for a first timer. I used some youtube guide, wd-40, carb cleaner, pressure cleaner, wires to clean holes, new rebuild kit, and bam my truck sounds so much better now. The carb rebuild helped all the engine shake that I thought was natural for that truck. It also sounds great now. Smooth. It idle's pretty well now. Some questions I have.

1) When setting the gas/accelerating rods back onto the carb- I feel like my truck may be idling a little high. but it sounds great. probably just too high rpm's. Which rod should i fix. I consider them as three. One on the bottom, which is connected to the rod above, as well as a third on top.I also don't know what the top cable does. It's a drivers side black wire that screws into the little golden box. Its the one with a spring on top that is bolted into the corner of the carb. So just trying to figure out what that does so I can properly fix my idle.

2) I also noticed the two little screws in the front ( the only two screws with springs and pointed tips) of my carb to change the sound of the engine a little bit. I guess they determine how much fuel is going into the carb? How tight should they be? they are about halfway from fully tight and halfway from fully loose right now..

3) As for the fuel filter I'll post a picture of what it looks like. Thanks for the replies but I'm still clueless as to where it is installed.

Thanks so much guys! I'm having a blast fixing up the Ole Chevy C-10!

-Brock

First pic is the rebuild!
Second Pic is the mystery Fuel Filter (that I don't know where to install).

[Captainfab]

THat fuel filter is for a inline canister, which your truck does not have. I'll see if I can find a part number or pic of the one you need.

On the idle mixtuire screws, you want to adjust those for the highest vacuum reading. if you don't have a vacuum gauge, adjust for the highest idle speed.

I don't know enough about those 2bbl carbs to advise on the rods you are asking about.

[Captainfab]

Here are some part numbers for the correct fuel filter for your carb. O'Reilly's brand #PCG3388, AC #GF470, Hastings #GF-86, Purolator #E10157, Wix # 33051. If you want to add an inline filter as also suggested, that would be a Wix #33032, which is for a 5/16" fuel hose.

[Brocko]

Thanks Captain that helped a bunch!

New issue!

Since I rebuilt my carb, I had to reattach it to the manifold. I was able to get three of the four nuts on properly but one was giving me a hassle. So after tightening it too much and trying hard to get the but on the old bolt, I made the problem worse. The original problem was that there was a slight hissing or possible air leak. When is was only mild I was running the truck with only three bolts in. So after tightening the fourth bolt and messing around with it too much I ended up with a even louder hissing or air leak. It's strange to me because I was able to get the fourth bolt in tight but now the leak sounds much louder. How could it be that there is a louder/more powerful leak now that all four bolt are in tightly. I assume the fourth (hassle bolt), isn't in properly but how could this lead to a even stronger leak? It doesn't make sense to me. Running the truck with only 3 bolts connecting the carb had a mild hissing sound. But when jamming the fourth bolt in I end up with a much louder hissing/air leak?


Help me please and thanks!!!

Any reply helps at this point!

[Captainfab]

Is the hissing a vacuum leak or just the sound of the air entering the carb? Spray some carb cleaner around the base of the carb and see if the idle speeds up. Is that 4th bolt crossthreaded into the manifold? Usually there are studs and nuts for the carb to manifold attachment.

[Brocko]

Its likely vacuum leak from what i've learned. The bolts go directly into the manifold. they also hold the carb in place. one bolt on each corner of carb