Drum Brake Question

[Premium72]

So, i went through and put all new lines through out the c30 today, along with a new Dual Master Cylinder. Im getting pressure through the lines and the peddle stiffens up, but when i open the bleeder, NADA.

I opened up the lines just to check i was getting pressure and fluid, had the wife press on the peddle and press all of the air out. But i get nothing out of the bleeder.

Im not real familiar with these BIG OL drums. Im going to pull the drums tomorrow, i imagine theres some hardware that needs to be replaced in the hubs, something seems to be seized up some where.


Any input or tips?

Im one more step closer to being street worthy.....I HOPE.

thanks ya'll.

[Premium72]

Looks like ill need to replace all the wheel cylinders next. Any recommendations??

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by Premium72

Looks like ill need to replace all the wheel cylinders next. Any recommendations??

Before I'd replace them I'd check to see if your local auto parts place has re-build kits. Not a difficult job to do. You'll need a small cylinder hone for your drill. I've rebuilt them right on the truck with no troubles.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

I found a video on how to rebuild a wheel cylinder. I watched it all the way through just to make sure it was right. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fisalTYqdjI#t=652
This kit is for a Ford, but it's almost identical to the Chevy kits.

[Captainfab]

Remove the bleeders and make sure they aren't plugged up. Can you hear the shoes moving when the pedal is pressed? Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the drums anyway and have a look.

[Premium72]

I can hear the fluid in the lines, but im not hearing the shoes grab. I pulled the bleeders all the way out, no fluid.


One think i know ill need a few tips on are pulling the front drums. 8 lug, looks like theres a hub to deal with on the fronts???. Again my last truck had disks up front, and i never had to do much with the drums on the rear. Thanks again for the help.

[BigSix]

You're 100% sure you're getting pressure up the line? When you bled the master cylinder you got all the bubbles out and bled it level?

[earl84]

There are lots of threads on here about guys not having luck bleeding their brake system, with tons of advice. I struggled and struggled with this a while back and used all the recommendations to no avail. What I ended up doing was making a pressure bleeder from some online plans I found, and it is such a no brainer to get the system bled and the brakes working properly, I no longer bother with any other method. Just bench bleed a new master, fill it up and gravity bleed overnight, then put that pressure bleeder on, done. Easy, easy, easy.
BTW, rebuilding the wheel cylinders is good advice, but I recommend you check prices of new ones from Rock Auto? They are usually ridiculously inexpensive, and simple to change.

[Premium72]

Originally Posted by BigSix

You're 100% sure you're getting pressure up the line? When you bled the master cylinder you got all the bubbles out and bled it level?

when i wasnt getting anything from the bleeders, i opened the line at the hoes and the hard line to check there was fluid there. Sort of "temporarily" bleed the system that way to make sure fluid was getting thru the lines. levels are... level at the MC.

[Premium72]

Originally Posted by earl84

There are lots of threads on here about guys not having luck bleeding their brake system, with tons of advice. I struggled and struggled with this a while back and used all the recommendations to no avail. What I ended up doing was making a pressure bleeder from some online plans I found, and it is such a no brainer to get the system bled and the brakes working properly, I no longer bother with any other method. Just bench bleed a new master, fill it up and gravity bleed overnight, then put that pressure bleeder on, done. Easy, easy, easy.
BTW, rebuilding the wheel cylinders is good advice, but I recommend you check prices of new ones from Rock Auto? They are usually ridiculously inexpensive, and simple to change.

Ive been searching around, i think im going to rebuild or buy some new wheel cylinders for sure, that will basically round out the brake system and be all fresh parts.

If you have the planes to the pressure bleeder, do share. Was looking at getting one as well.

[66Submarine]

I'd definitely rebuild or replace the wheel cylinders. Disk brake stuff seems to be pretty good about it, but old drum brake wheel cylinders can pretty much be counted on to leak. I'd never start driving a truck that's been sitting without going through the brakes first.

As stated, Rockauto.com is a great place to buy stuff (IMO, anyway)--I buy all my stuff I can from them (for the most part). Besides being cheaper, they also actually have the stuff!

The front brake drums will have to come off with the hub on a dually. You unscrew the bearing cap/cover instead of it being a press fit, but otherwise the wheel bearings are the same as anything else. It's a good idea to repack the bearings and put a new seal in there, anyway.

The rear brakes are a little bit more of a pain; you also have to take them off with the hubs. You have to take the axles out (8 bolts on the ends and they'll slide right out-have a catch pan for the gear oil), then you have to deal with the bearings. Unlike the front bearings, you'll need a special socket, or you'll have to crudely set them with a screwdriver/punch. Since it's kind of a pain to do this, I recommend replacing everything when you do; wheel seal, shoes, wheel cylinders, clean & relube or replace self-adjuster stuff, etc. The rear shoes are the most expensive thing--$60 for the set at Rockauto. I suspect a later shoe will interchange, but I haven't tried it.

It really sounds like a bigger deal than it is. I've been meaning to do a short write up on it anyway; I'll do it and send you a link.

[Premium72]

Thanks for the in depth feedback submarine. I'd love to read over your write up. Please do send a link when you get it up. I'll be waiting to dive back in sometime next week. Especially after reading your write up and seeing what all I'll need to refresh.

[64shortbox]

I also had trouble trying to get my brakes to bleed. I replaced the master, all brake lines and hoses etc., etc. Had my wife pumping the pedal while I tried to bleed, cracked the bleeders and left them open for several days and nothing worked, yes I did bench bleed the master before installing it on my truck. I ended up making a Hillbilly pressure bleeder and set it @ 25 PSI I was finally able to pressure bleed my brakes. Here's the link showing my Hillbilly pressure bleed set up. Mine is for a dual master but making one for a single master would be even easier.
Here's the link: Post # 7603 hope this helps.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...58#post6054458

[66Submarine]

Glad I could help; I'll try to get that article written down and posted soon.

[earl84]

Here's the link to the DIY brake bleeder I made. http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm I copied this almost exactly except the part that hooks on to the master cylinder. For that I used some scrap 1/4 plate steel fitted with a barbed fitting from Lowe's (you gotta go there for the other stuff). I had an old master cylinder gasket that I cut out the middle part and use C-clamps to tighten it down. It works extremely well. A little bit of a pain if you are in a hurry, but I have used it three times now with great success and no headaches, and no helper.