I still have fuel line questions! And did anyone use braided steel hose?

[In The Ten Ring]

Well I took out the rest of my fuel lines today....the ones that attach to the frame. Wow, what a job! It's pretty annoying moving it first one way then the next but I managed to remove both fuel and canister (vent) lines on my own today.

Now for replacements.....does anyone have pics of their using braided stainless steel hose? That's GOT to be easier to do than fighting all those bends in the tight space!

*I have also thought about making the fuel line itself 2 pieces like the canister line is.....I'll bet that would make it easier to put back in.

Would an extra bend to make clearance for a coupling hose be a problem for the fuel line?

[Lees68GMC]

In my experiences, I'd avoid using any of the Russell or Aeroquip standard braided stainless steel flex lines Except, TFE Teflon lined is the only way to go safely in my opinion. Those standard lines were originally designed for pure unadulterated, leaded Racing Gasoline. The Ethanol, Ethers, MTBE and various other nasty additives in today's "Pump Gas" actually eats the standard lining (manufacturers issued quiet tech bulletins) and eventually you'll smell fuel vapors & seepage but won't "See" leaks initially. Still dangerous in my opinion. I've always used 3/8" steel fuel line and at "flex points" I used braided stainless steel TFE lined flex lines at the Motor and back at the fuel tank itself. These lines are high pressure TFE (could with stand power steering pressures). we found a place in Phoenix that makes these to order and sends them to us at about the same cost as sticking little stainless steel splinters in your fingers costs.

My two cents

[oldschool18]

3/8 aluminum line.....its soft and bends really easy.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Well I took out the rest of my fuel lines today....the ones that attach to the frame. Wow, what a job! It's pretty annoying moving it first one way then the next but I managed to remove both fuel and canister (vent) lines on my own today.

Now for replacements.....does anyone have pics of their using braided stainless steel hose? That's GOT to be easier to do than fighting all those bends in the tight space!

*I have also thought about making the fuel line itself 2 pieces like the canister line is.....I'll bet that would make it easier to put back in.

Would an extra bend to make clearance for a coupling hose be a problem for the fuel line?

I use Russell Braided stainless PTFE lined hose. Avoid the rubber stock. Alcohol additives in most states eat the rubber.

[In The Ten Ring]

Fitz,

Tell me all you can about the braided steel lines. I know very little but I am interested.

Can you PM me your phone number and a good time to call?

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Fitz,

Tell me all you can about the braided steel lines. I know very little but I am interested.

Can you PM me your phone number and a good time to call?

I suggest you go here: www.godmanhiperformance.com and download an electronic copy of their catalog.

These guys are racers, their business is built on the needs of racers and their catalog not only contains parts but they include a narrative which explains how the hoses and fittings are used. In the back there's a tutorial on how to assemble AN style fittings and hose. Just a hint here: when you cut that hose wrap it with 1.5 inch paper masking tape centered on the cut and use a 3 in cutoff wheel on a grinder to cut the hose. It keeps the stainless overbraid from fraying. A saw will just shred the jacket making it impossible to get the fittings over the hose ends. You are going to choke when you find out how much the fittings for that hose cost. Also NHRA, AHRA and IHRA require hard lines going forward of the bell housing just in case your clutch or flexplate come apart and no part of the fuel system can be firewall mounted.

When I did the high pressure lines for my power steering and AC one fitting was $55.00 so if you just want to look cool, this is probably not the best way to go. Godman will also ship 10 foot sections of aluminum or stainless steel fuel and brake tubing. They put it into a piece of PVC pipe so it won't get bent or dinged by the apes at UPS or FedEx.

The type of hose you want to use for fuel is Aeroquip FBA (you can use FBC but it's more expensive) and Aeroquip FBC for power steering, brakes or AC. Pressure ratings for FBA is 750 psi and 2500 psi for FBC. Both use synthetic liners that work with gasoline, straight alcohol or alcohol/nitromethane mix.

[502ms]

Just remember that braided lines are still rubber lines, and over time (maybe 7 years) they will need to be replaced. Best to use as much aluminized hard line as possible. I used braided lines from rail to FPR and from tank to pump/filter.
Take a look at mine:
http://dirtydianah.com or http://youtube.com/502ms

[davepl]

I'd use soft steel hard lines. Stainless is pretty but hard to bend (ask me how I know, I did the whole truck in stainless). Soft regular steel is easy. Lots of guys above recommend aluminum; no idea if it matters for fuel, but that'd likely be the easiest to bend.

You'll be in it a few dollars for tube nuts and a flaring tool if you don't have them, but still probably cheaper than the stainless wrap line and fittings.

Remember that braided stainless isn't steel hose. It's rubber hose with a stainless wrap that's there for abrasion protection.

PTFE lines would be much better than rubber, but the OEMs have discovered that the fuel flowing through PTFE strips electrons (ie: builds up a big static charge). So they've started using special lines that conduct electricity, I believe.

Long and short of it is if you can bend a pipe and flare an end, that's the way to go. The only flex hose should be between the frame and the engine. There's a reason the NHRA doesn't allow more than 6 inches of regular rubber hose (or I think it's 6, not entirely sure).

That said, my Camaro is built using -12 and -10 lines, but I wouldn't do it that way again.

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks guys.....it looks like my original plan has been confirmed.

I also spoke with a NAPA clerk today (who made his own hardline for his Desoto) and he said the Poly Armor tubing works fine with the new ethanol-blended gasoline and the rubber connection hose NAPA sells is resistant to the evils of modern gasoline.

I do have a flaring tool, a Craftsman actually.

Now I plan to make two changes.

1). Install a fuel cut off valve just out from the tank (I still have the in-cab firebomb) for added anti theft.

2). Make my fuel line (on frame) a 2-piece affair like the canister line so that I can get it in there easier. Getting that OEM fuel line out was a pain!

I assume we are to pre-bend and flair our new hardlines before we put them on the frame, correct? (The NAPA guy bent his as he put it on and then flared the ends but my flaring kit uses a bench vise).