Dash lights not working

[jtrichard]

not same fuse http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=423593

[Bullett]

Yup. Checked the fuse labeled "panel" in the fuse box and it was popped. I will have to go to auto zone for new one since I don't have any old style fuses here.
Thanks for help.

[Bullett]

Sorry, that fuse was labeled "bulbs" not panel.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Bullett

Yup. Checked the fuse labeled "panel" in the fuse box and it was popped.

That'll do it! Good call jtrichard! I'd just like to add that it would be a good idea to make sure all of your connections to the gray wires are well insulated so they can't accidentally short to ground and pop the fuse again.

Originally Posted by jtrichard

......as for turn indicator i believe that OEM had one only for both sides

Originally Posted by jtrichard

this might help looks like they used 2 wires left and right to a single bulb for turn indicator http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=509522

Yes, there were some years (62 & 63 I think) that only used one turn signal indicator bulb. And yes, GM simply hooked both the light & dark blue turn indicator wires to a single bulb in an ungrounded socket. When signaling a turn, the inactive side provided the ground.

It's easy to hook them up in a more conventional left & right indicator configuration though. Just run each wire (light & dark blue) to it's own separate bulb in a grounded socket.

[Bullett]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

That'll do it! Good call jtrichard! I'd just like to add that it would be a good idea to make sure all of your connections to the gray wires are well insulated so they can't accidentally short to ground and pop the fuse again.




Yes, there were some years (62 & 63 I think) that only used one turn signal indicator bulb. And yes, GM simply hooked both the light & dark blue turn indicator wires to a single bulb in an ungrounded socket. When signaling a turn, the inactive side provided the ground.

It's easy to hook them up in a more conventional left & right indicator configuration though. Just run each wire (light & dark blue) to it's own separate bulb in a grounded socket.

Oh, o.k., So I need to tape the connectors that connect each gauge light to the gray wires . Didn't think of that. Learning experience for me wi

[jtrichard]

YES tape those connectors it dont take much to pop that small fuse ... now to confuse you even more lol ... if you have no dash lights it can be that small fuse (panel) OR it can be the tail/brake/dome fuse.... the power goes from the fuse block (tail/brake/dome) to the light switch then the dash/panel lights go back to the block through the small fuse then to the dash ...they did it that way so if you have no tail lights because of a short/bad fuse you wont have dash lights either

[Bullett]

Holy crap, this is confusing. The slot in the fuse box labeled for "bulbs", which has a 20a fuse, keeps popping as soon as I put a new fuse in and turn on the dash lights. I noticed the tail/dome light fuse in the fuse box was also popped. This only had a 5a fuse, which I put in a new 5a fuse in and tried the dash lights. the lights on my 4 small gauges now work?..this is with no fuse at all in the "bulbs" slot of fuse block. Damn good thing I don't make a living running wires.

[Bullett]

I'm kinda surprised a 5 amp fuse is enough to support the tail lights and the gauge lights. Enough for tonight, starting to get frustrated. Thanks for all the help so far, much appreciated.

[Bullett]

Oh, the only other thing I have done is unplugged the heater element and also the blower motor. They both would never shut off completely and would slow draw the battery down. I noticed that the same fuse slot for the dash bulbs also is labeled "heater". This wouldn't have anything to do with blowing the 20 amp fuses as soon as I install them?

[jtrichard]

the tail/brake is 15 amp then only the dash lights go through the "panel" fuse 3 amp heater is below the panel fuse at 10 amp

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Bullett

Holy crap, this is confusing. The slot in the fuse box labeled for "bulbs", which has a 20a fuse, keeps popping as soon as I put a new fuse in and turn on the dash lights.
...
the lights on my 4 small gauges now work?..this is with no fuse at all in the "bulbs" slot of fuse block.

Now that is strange! Not only the fact that the fuse keeps popping, but the fact that the lights work without the fuse!

And as far as the speedometer light not working, is that hooked into the same gray wire(s) as the other gauge lights?

Originally Posted by Bullett

I'm kinda surprised a 5 amp fuse is enough to support the tail lights and the gauge lights.

I think you're onto something there ... it sounds as though a previous owner may have mixed up the fuses in your fusebox.

I don't have a '62 manual that lists the fuse sizes, but the '63 manual lists a 15 amp fuse for the tail/brake/dome location. And 3 amp for the instrument lamps fuse.

Like jtrichard explained earlier, power from the tail/brake/dome fuse goes to the headlight switch, through the rheostat, back to the fuse panel, through the "panel lamps" or "bulbs" fuse, and then out to the gray wire(s) to the lights.

Since the "panel / bulbs" fuse keeps popping and your dash lights work without it, here's my best guess as to what is happening:

Sometime (years ago) your truck developed a short circuit in the instrument panel lights. Someone "fixed it" by running a new wire bypassing the short circuited section. But they also bypassed the "panel / bulbs" fuse in the process. The fuse pops because the short circuit is still there. But since the bypass wire allowed the dash lights to work without the fuse, it was probably blown all along and you just discovered it now that you're checking into things.

Again, that's just my best guess as to what's happening.

As far as the heater goes, I think that is the next fuse down ... the one below the instrument panel lights fuse, and shouldn't have anything to do with the problem.

[Bullett]

O.k., I think the speedo light not working is my fault, I think I wired that light into the ignition terminal for some reason. I will re route that to a gray wire tomorrow after work. I guess This should put me where I need to be, that should make all my dash lights work. So the tail lights and the dash lights are all running through that 5 amp fuse? Is this o.k.? I haven't checked to see if brake lights work, I will check that tomorrow also.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Bullett

So the tail lights and the dash lights are all running through that 5 amp fuse? Is this o.k.?

From your description, it sounds like they are now. However, as mentioned earlier, I think a previous owner mixed up some of the fuses in your fusebox ... the "tail/brake/dome" location should have a 15 amp fuse.

[Bullett]

The 4smaller gauges have one terminal, that I have been hooking to the gray instrument panel lighting wires. The speedo has 2 terminals, I am assuming 1 goes to a gray wire and the other terminal goes to the ground? If so, does it matter which terminal goes to the power and which terminal goes to the ground? Neither terminal is labeled. Also, I don't have any more available gray wires so is it o.k. To feed the speedo and one of the smaller gauges from the same gray wire? Thanks...Bullett

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Bullett

The 4smaller gauges have one terminal, that I have been hooking to the gray instrument panel lighting wires. The speedo has 2 terminals, I am assuming 1 goes to a gray wire and the other terminal goes to the ground?

Yes, from what I can see in your earlier photos showing the back of the speedometer, I think you're safe with that assumption.

Originally Posted by Bullett

If so, does it matter which terminal goes to the power and which terminal goes to the ground? Neither terminal is labeled.

It would only matter if it has an LED light ... in which case the terminals would likely be marked. If it's a regular incandescent bulb it doesn't matter which one is power and which one is ground.

Originally Posted by Bullett

Also, I don't have any more available gray wires so is it o.k. To feed the speedo and one of the smaller gauges from the same gray wire?

Yes, it's okay to connect it to one of the gray wires going to one of the other gauges. If you were to untape the harness and follow those 4 gray wires back, you'd find that the factory spliced them all together so they're all fed off a single gray wire anyway. Adding one more bulb to the circuit won't hurt a thing.

[Bullett]

Alright, thanks Ray. I think I have reached the end of my wiring ability, I think I need to hire someone that has a better idea than I do. I would also like to have the wiring under the dash cleaned up. Somehow, I have lost power to my stereo and also, everything seems to work until I turn the key ahead and step on the brake, it pops a fuse. I just don't understand it enough. Thanks for all the help everyone, I will post when I find out what is going on. Ray, I wish you lived closer, I would be more than happy to hire you to take a look. I am also considering a complete new fuse box and wiring harness. The truck is very clean and exc. shape so I don't have any problem with the though of all new wiring.

[ray_mcavoy]

You're welcome! Yeah, too bad we weren't a little closer ... I'd gladly take a look at it for you.

In any case, I think you're on the right track with considering new wiring harnesses. That will give you a new fuse box, clean things up under the dash, and hopefully eliminate the short circuits, old repairs, etc. that are causing problems. I'd recommend either American Autowire (www.americanautowire.com/) or M&H Electric Fabricators (www.wiringharness.com/). They both offer a number of choices depending on how many modifications / updates you've added (or plan on adding).