Eaton full float hub/drum removal/wheel bearing setup info

[66Submarine]

I wrote up an article on removing the hubs from a full float Eaton HO-52/72 and stuck it up on my website, complete with pictures and GM torque/setup specs; I thought some here might find it useful, so here it is.

Eaton HO-52/72 hubs

[rickywideglide]

good info thanks

[jtrichard]

one thing you did not say to do is put some chassis/wheel bearing grease on the bearings , seal and spindle before you put the hub back on............ everything else is spot on

[66Submarine]

Thanks.

Yeah, I didn't mention the re-lube. I will say that I just like to lube the bearings with gear oil; there's some debate as to how good of an idea it is using grease. Oil should get to them pretty quick under normal conditions, anyway.

[66Submarine]

Added the oil info. (In my haste I kind of took all that as a given, always being one to think of stuff like that.)

[jtrichard]

one day on my way home i see this 2 ton truck that i have seen being restored about 10 miles away stopped along the road i stopped to see if he needed some help and boy did he he had done the rear brakes and put it all back together with NO lube he made it 10 miles "he thought it oiled from the differential" yes and no it takes quite some time for 90wt to make its way to the hubs on big rigs they have pipe plugs in the hubs that you pull and fill with 90wt anyway back to what happened .....the bearings seized i had to go home get a cutting torch and carefully cut what was left of the bearings off of the spindle he was lucky it happened where it did and that it did not wipe out the spindle.... as for using grease once the 90wt makes it to the hub it mixes with the grease and the next time you pull it you would never know it had any grease added

[Premium72]

Great write up!! Thanks for this.

[66Submarine]

Glad I could help.

JT; sounds like they really did a number on that one! Of course, considering that level of expertise, I also wouldn't be surprised if they torqued the bearings down and just left them tight, too.

When I said oil should get to the bearings pretty soon I really meant that I don't see/feel the need for something like grease. Some advise against it, and you are adding that sticky soap to help build up nasty crap in the axle tubes, etc. Probably doesn't matter much either way, but I like the tilt the axle + assembly with gear oil myself.

[1963c-10]

Nice write up.

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by 66Submarine

Glad I could help.

JT; sounds like they really did a number on that one! Of course, considering that level of expertise, I also wouldn't be surprised if they torqued the bearings down and just left them tight, too.

When I said oil should get to the bearings pretty soon I really meant that I don't see/feel the need for something like grease. Some advise against it, and you are adding that sticky soap to help build up nasty crap in the axle tubes, etc. Probably doesn't matter much either way, but I like the tilt the axle + assembly with gear oil myself.

the guy had it set up right just no lube..... when i use grease i dont go ape**** with it i just use a little and some times if i have the time i too do the tilt method park it on the side of a hill for awhile then turn it around

[cg285]

the only thing i see wrong is you forgot to post the picture of the jack stand supporting the truck.

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by cg285

the only thing i see wrong is you forgot to post the picture of the jack stand supporting the truck.

yeah he did it says CRAFTSMAN on the side of it LOL (a floor jack on DIRT what could possibly go wrong there?)

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

yeah he did it says CRAFTSMAN on the side of it LOL (a floor jack on DIRT what could possibly go wrong there?)

Sorry I don't have an airplane hangar to work in, buddy. I have no level concrete anywhere, and only enough sloped concrete to put most of a truck on--I work in the dirt or I don't work at all.

That is gravel packed into clay, and it's actually just fine for using that jack (which is also the only "real" jack I have). If I have to jack something up on soft ground I use a plate of steel or something to make sure it doesn't sink.

"Stock" jack stands are a pretty terrible idea on dirt IMO, and I generally don't use them; I use solid wood blocks cut from a decent diameter tree, which don't have nearly the potential to sink (because they are flat across the bottom instead of three stamped steel feet). Otherwise, I'd weld plates of steel to the bottom of the jack stands.

In those pictures, I just wanted to pull a hub to see if the brakes/drums were totally shot or not. I wasn't under the truck at any point, and all the other wheels were firmly on the ground. Not to say it's the smartest thing, but it was what I did.

But that's not the point of this. There is little info available about dealing with this stuff, and I thought it might be helpful to someone who needs to redo their brakes before they grind the rivets halfway through the drums like PO's did to mine. That's all this was/is, and the pictures are just to help illustrate.

[cg285]

jack stands on top of boards or wood blocks. i've witnessed the carnage

[1963c-10]

I carry a block of wood in both of my trucks in case I get a flat going down the road. Keeps the factory jack from sinking into the ground should I need to use it. Concrete and pavement are not always an option.

[jtrichard]

i to work a lot in the dirt or sand as it is here in the desert .....i have done worse as far as jacking and stands so i was not trying to judge ...more of a joke ..... i have used steel plates / plywood you name i have probably used it LOL

[66Submarine]

Ok, gotcha.