05-22-2014, 12:20 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Las Vegas nevada
Posts: 32
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carb
I just purchased a new Rochester 1 barrel carb since my old one was leaking everywhere. I bolt it all up and drive the truck about 50 miles, I smell a burning and pop the hood to find out it's leaking through the float bowl gasket, tightened the bolts on it, fixed the problem. another 5 miles later, it's running just fine, doing 50 down the road and all of a sudden it starts sputtering like there is no gas getting to it, tank is full, fuel pump is doing it job, gas line is pressurized from the pump like it should be. so why is it doing this? do I have an air leak? I know I have a vacuum leak but I repaired that and it didn't fix the problem. can someone shed light on this?
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05-22-2014, 01:00 PM | #2 |
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Re: carb
Not being a smart ass but its a very old Rochester, either a b or a monojet. Even rebuilt by the best its 40+ years old and has attendant wear and molestation by prolly more than one owner and rebuilder.
To be honest, if its a parts store rebuild its a toss up with most of em landing poorly in your lap. There are some high end suppliers of good ones out there but its pretty salty unless yer seeking points for originality. Honestly, if its not a concours truck but rather a driver, I'd look around for a newer carb or new in box carb and make up the linkage/be prepared to jet/tune. In the long run, I think you'll be happier. I can recommend the weber progressive 2 bbl for the I6 engines..it comes with good advice an support if you order it from Mr. Langdon at Stovebolt Engine Company. Others have made use of much newer (potentially less worn out) parts store monojets, small 4 bbls, etc. |
05-22-2014, 02:11 PM | #3 |
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Re: carb
Sounds like float is stuck up. Gonna have to tear down to check that.
New Holley carbs sure are nice...! Love my 2bbl... |
05-22-2014, 02:37 PM | #4 |
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Location: Bangor, Michigan
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Re: carb
Check your stone filter at the fuel inlet line for clogging. You may have sediment in your tank. Also check the main fuel filter too. Invest in a plastic see - through filter for easy diagnosis. I have this problem a lot and that's the reason why like the problem you explained.
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05-22-2014, 02:44 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Las Vegas nevada
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Re: carb
has new in line fuel filter as of a day or two ago. checked the float, works great, cleaned it all with carb cleaner. it's jetted and the air/mix is properly set. guess I'll tear it down just to double check
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05-22-2014, 03:44 PM | #6 |
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Location: branchburg, new jersey
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Re: carb
i got a rebuilt rochester 1 bbl carb from rock auto for my 292, they were the cheapest price around, i sent them back some old 2 bbl carb just as a core, when i got it ,i bolted it on and it ran great , just had to fine tune the adjustments. a couple of weeks later i started to see stuff oozing from around the middle part of the carb body , i just had to re tighten the body screws and i was good to go , it has not done it since. if you got to start tearing into a carb you just bought , i would call them up and ask for another one, just my 2-cents.
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05-22-2014, 04:25 PM | #7 |
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Re: carb
Weed sprayer aimed at open manifold is more reliable than a Rochester.
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05-22-2014, 04:45 PM | #8 |
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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Re: carb
Hello. Running the same carb. I have learned that the top/bottom castings get warped. One method is to clamp them to something flat and heat them in an oven and let cool That was too advanced for me, so I took a fine file and slightly relieved the corners (area around each bolt hole). This helped a lot (but, yes, it still leaks a little - but liveable). Excellent site to check out is "Mikes Carburetor" goto http://www.carburetor-parts.com/
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05-22-2014, 06:35 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Las Vegas nevada
Posts: 32
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Re: carb
hey guys. like the other guy said, I got it through rock auto. sent in my old one. a 2 barrel and manifold/adaptor wasn't in the budget or I would have.
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