How to pull dents with no access from behind?

[72step]

I have 3 dents on my truck with no rear access for hammer and dolly work. One on the roof top, one on the rear of the cab behind the door as it wraps around and on the very front corner of the hood. I really wish I had one of those tack-gun dent pulling systems but I don't feel it's worth spending the money on one for these three dents. What other options do I have to pull these out?--I do have a mig welder. I was thinking of tacking a piece of metal I can grab on to and somehow making my own dent pulling rig. The dents are not major by any means. Any ideas?? Thanks...

[chevy_mike]

Stud gun is the best/easiest method but I have seen people take a washer and tack weld it (on end) and use a slide hammer with a hook end, that will fit in the hole of the washer.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

I have a couple of those as well. I was thinking of drilling through the back side and using a punch to pop as much of the dent out as I could and then plug welding the hole. On mine it would be a two person job because I'd need someone to hold the dolly.
If someone has other ideas, I'd also like to hear.

[luvbowties]

Drill 'anchor holes' into dent area and get lots done by screwing in metal screw and pulling with a claw hammer! Better is use a 1.5-inch by 1/4-inch by ~10-inch flat plate(or 5" or 14"--depending on length & flatness of panel the dent is in). Drill a hole thru f-plate, insert hole over screw head, and use claw hammer to pull against PLATE, working dent UP TO back of plate.

Used these 2 methods even after getting business big enough to justify store-bought tools!
Sam

[AcampoDave]

Harbor freight sells those stud guns. I've seen 'em there....and you know, they price their stuff pretty cheap.

[Lugnutz65]

Stud Gun! Works great!

[oem4me]

A stud gun works great for little stuff if you have one. If you don't, nothing at all wrong with tacking something (really anything) on there to tug on. I've welded some pretty sizable "tabs" onto heavily damaged panels in order to pull them back into shape while simultaneously working high spots with a hammer. Cut or nip close with a wheel, grind flush, and your done. No way will I ever drill another hole for a screw.
Another more specialized approach is using long specially bent rods to reach back into such areas from the nearest accessible place and carefully levering the dent outward. Check out PDR or paintless dent repair on You Tube. This takes quite a bit of finesse and patience, so it's not for everybody. Then again, bodywork in general isn't for everybody either, I guess.

[pdxhall]

I haven't tried one yet but Eastwood makes an attachment for a mig to weld on studs for dent pulling. It seems to be just something that holds the stud in place while you tack it.

[72step]

Can you weld on those standard copper studs with just the mig? If that's the case I can just buy the studs and hammer. Anyone ever try To tack the copper studs with just the mig while you hold them with your hand?

[McCoyAZ]

Paintless dent removal suction machine.

[Lowl!f3]

The Harbor stud gun is $99.00. And I think for those dents it would be worth it instead of drilling holes in the body.
You can probably try and tack some studs yourself. However the bond would be better using the gun.

[Cape Codder]

Those studs are made of steel they only look like copper. Remember when using any pulling system it is better to pull and tap around the dent to relieve the pressure than to bang away with the slide hammer. I have a small T handle that grips the studs and seldom ever use the slide hammer. Slide hammers stretch the metal. If you welded a bolt across a nail to make a handle then spot welded the nail with a mig you could do the same thing. If you need a stronger pull take a piece of steel with a hole big enough for a come along and tack to the dent and pull while tapping the high spots. Remember finesse not force when working sheet metal.


Bob

[72step]

I finally ordered a slide hammer and I'll try the washer trick. I'm not fond of spending money on a cheap stud gun kit that I'll never use again and will have zero resale value--=not to mention the mixed reviews with the cheap slide hammer not grabbing the stud and such.

[72step]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Those studs are made of steel they only look like copper. Remember when using any pulling system it is better to pull and tap around the dent to relieve the pressure than to bang away with the slide hammer. I have a small T handle that grips the studs and seldom ever use the slide hammer. Slide hammers stretch the metal. If you welded a bolt across a nail to make a handle then spot welded the nail with a mig you could do the same thing. If you need a stronger pull take a piece of steel with a hole big enough for a come along and tack to the dent and pull while tapping the high spots. Remember finesse not force when working sheet metal.


Bob

I hear you on the finesse versus brute force. I will be very easy on the slide hammer. They do make a puller that looks like pliers that I've seen a paint and body guy use that seemed to work great.

[Cape Codder]

Try just pulling on the slide hammer without using the slide part. Balance yourself well so if the puller slips off the stud you don't fall back into anything. Ask me why I warn you.

[Monte's62]

Lots of good ideas here guys, but what I would really like to see is a vid of cape codders slippage. Lol!!!! Thanks for the warning Cape.