Preferred wiring harness

[harley rider]

Originally Posted by BB72CHEVKT

I am usally a believer in you get what you pay for but I am leaning towards the E-Z harness due to price.

dont worry about the low cost .I work in a hot rod shop and have seen several wire kits.if you lay most of them next to each other you cant tell the difference. we used to use american wire, but now we use E-Z with no problems.

[Classic Heartbeat]

Well like some have said in the thread. It depends on your skills and if you want to cut your firewall so the harness fits. We sell exclusively M&H and American Autowire because they are the best on the market! Hands Down! They fit perfectly, have exact looms and plugs and use the same color coding that GM did. Their classic update kits for the guys with electric everything love them also, because you don't need in-line fuses to protect your parts. The kits have the fuses built into the fuse panels. I have rewired several trucks from 1955 to 1972 and I do not have a complaint one about them. Well mayby I complain about laying on my back to wire under the dash..lol oh and I didn't understand one of the schematics of the classic autowire updated wireing kits. (however M&H was very patient with me while they explained to me what I wasn't seeing in the schematic.) So I would buy what you want to buy, but beware that some of the kits being pushed in this thread require you altering your truck to make it fit and require you using some of your old parts. M&H nor American auto wire will require that. WES

[vectorit]

I'm only going by your avatar for what kind of harness you are shopping for, so I just wanted to remind you and let you know that the Suburban dash harness is different than the pick ups (and more expensive).
There is a large harness that comes off the fuse block to feed the rear half of the Suburban. At the time of my purchase (few years back) M&H was the only company making a Suburban dash harness, and rear harness that runs the length of the Suburban up the A pillar and along the roof.

[harley rider]

Originally Posted by Classic Heartbeat

Well like some have said in the thread. It depends on your skills and if you want to cut your firewall so the harness fits. We sell exclusively M&H and American Autowire because they are the best on the market! Hands Down! They fit perfectly, have exact looms and plugs and use the same color coding that GM did. Their classic update kits for the guys with electric everything love them also, because you don't need in-line fuses to protect your parts. The kits have the fuses built into the fuse panels. I have rewired several trucks from 1955 to 1972 and I do not have a complaint one about them. Well mayby I complain about laying on my back to wire under the dash..lol oh and I didn't understand one of the schematics of the classic autowire updated wireing kits. (however M&H was very patient with me while they explained to me what I wasn't seeing in the schematic.) So I would buy what you want to buy, but beware that some of the kits being pushed in this thread require you altering your truck to make it fit and require you using some of your old parts. M&H nor American auto wire will require that. WES

why would you have to cut the fire wall?

[BB72CHEVKT]

Originally Posted by vectorit

I'm only going by your avatar for what kind of harness you are shopping for, so I just wanted to remind you and let you know that the Suburban dash harness is different than the pick ups (and more expensive).
There is a large harness that comes off the fuse block to feed the rear half of the Suburban. At the time of my purchase (few years back) M&H was the only company making a Suburban dash harness, and rear harness that runs the length of the Suburban up the A pillar and along the roof.

I ended up buy a painless for $397 by having Summit price match and the shop was happy with the choice. Vectorit,I will let them know this info in the morning and see if we need to change things up. Since I am having a shop do all this work I am running out of cashola and didn't think I could handle more than $400 and the $1000 plus for the labor. I appreciate everyone's input. i may not be done yet. Wes I am PM'ing you for a price.

[Classic Heartbeat]

why would you have to cut the fire wall?

Because where the fuse panel passes through the firewall it is larger than the stock hole. BB72CHEVKT, I am working on a quote for you. WES

[boynton]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

I have the American Autowire Classic Update kit. Check all the websites for the above kits and this one, then do the reviews.

I just installed this in my '70 it was not too difficult and I don't know what I am doing...I can follow instructions though...so that helped. I passed inspection and everything

[harley rider]

Originally Posted by Classic Heartbeat

Because where the fuse panel passes through the firewall it is larger than the stock hole. BB72CHEVKT, I am working on a quote for you. WES

all of the wire that needs to pass thru the fire wall will easily pass thru the stock hole. still cant see cuting the fire wall. even better would be to weld that hole shut and pass thru some where more out of sight.

[cobra_4]

Didn't see it mentioned above but I really like the Ron Francis harnesses.

[Classic Heartbeat]

Where the fuse panel passes through the firewall the fuse panel is too large. You have to enlarge that hole for the painless harness. I don't have any personal experience with Ron Francis wiring, but I have a customer with a 74 that paid a shop 1500.00 to install one. I told him he could have installed M&H he could have done himself. WES

[vidman]

I just got my M+H from Wess last week and it was a perfect match and fit.

[truckdude239]

I used American auto wire classic update perfect fit

[TacBlade]

When you intall these kits, do you begin by pulling all the old wiring out completely or do you run one of the new wires and then pull out the old wire one at a time?

[truckdude239]

Pull all old stuff out

[nlped]

I'm using a painless harness on both of mine. I've used the P/W on 2 other previous projects and other than a few plugs I had to overcome & fabricate...they went very smoothly and I had plenty of extra switched & unswitched circuits. 1 has been going strong for 15+ yrs.