01-07-2004, 11:34 PM | #1 |
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engine paint peeling
why is the paint on my engine peeling off?
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01-08-2004, 12:05 AM | #2 |
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well, the paint will peel over time especially if it is exposed to weather such as moisture and rain.... even high-temperature good-quality engine paint cannot withstand the wrath of mother nature!
i have louvers in my hood (from the previous owner)... and the rain washed away a new paint job on my engine in less than a year! i have learned my lesson, and i have sealed the louvers, and i am working to put on a new coat of paint.... does this answer your question? can you be more specific? is it peeling a certain way? or in a certain area? jewels.
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01-08-2004, 12:14 AM | #3 |
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Heat, gas, and earll are enemies of paint and guess what an engine is made of.
Good prep and good quality paint are the best insurance. A car wash spray off and rattle cans do not a good paint job make. You need a good degreasing, a liquid metal prep, and a high quality two part paint for it to last. Even still the paint will burn off the hotter areas.
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01-08-2004, 12:28 AM | #4 |
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the engine was painted when it was built about 5 months ago and before it was painted it was hot tanked and degreased. the paint is peeling of the front of the engine and so far there are 3 spots about 1 inch in diameter and in the freeze plugs
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2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins, 4 inch lift, 35" Toyo MT's on Ultra wheels, P-Pump Conversion, AFE intake, Fass, 5 inch exhaust, Pyro,Boost,and Fuel pressure guages, and a whole bunch of other stuff "The Money Pit" SOLD-71 Chevy C10 long bed- 2/4 drop-- 350,th400, Edelbrock performer RPM intake,Edelbrock 600 CFM carb,Crower 240 cam,port and polish,Dynomax headers,HEI ignition,dual 2.5 inch exhaust with Flowmaster 50 series mufflers |
01-08-2004, 01:05 AM | #5 |
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freeze out plugs are galvanized you need to prime them first you may have gotten some oil or grease where its pealing so far. time to gunk it and pull off the paint and try again
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01-08-2004, 01:33 AM | #6 |
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jusy because a block was hot tanked and degreased doesnt mean it's ready for primer , you did prime it right?? during the assembly prosess there's alot of lubricants involved!! the block should be degreased a couple of times b-4 painting also should be etched for proper adhesion i like using a good enamel paint and primer and baking the enamel with heat lamps to cure and when the engine is ready to run run it for a few short periods of time to further cure the enamel
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01-08-2004, 02:02 AM | #7 |
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i didn't build the engine or paint it. but now i am wishing i had. do i need to remove all the paint from the engine before i repaint? what should i do before i repaint to avoid this problem again? i am never again going to have a shop build an engine for me or at least not that shop!!
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2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins, 4 inch lift, 35" Toyo MT's on Ultra wheels, P-Pump Conversion, AFE intake, Fass, 5 inch exhaust, Pyro,Boost,and Fuel pressure guages, and a whole bunch of other stuff "The Money Pit" SOLD-71 Chevy C10 long bed- 2/4 drop-- 350,th400, Edelbrock performer RPM intake,Edelbrock 600 CFM carb,Crower 240 cam,port and polish,Dynomax headers,HEI ignition,dual 2.5 inch exhaust with Flowmaster 50 series mufflers |
01-08-2004, 10:18 AM | #8 |
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if i were you i'd wait till springtime and see how bad it's gotten then get in there with something like a 3"wire wheel and get the main areas of peeling and or flaking paint clean real good with degreaser use metal prep on the block and try touching up the area with spray engine enamel and primer.
the only other alterinitive is to yank the engine and get the whole thing down to bare metal and start from square one
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01-08-2004, 10:30 AM | #9 |
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man i cant believe you guys work that hard at painting an engine i have done several in our nascar modifieds and a few in regular vehicles and i always just wash it with palmolive water and spray some wal-mart engine paint and i have never had one peel
i guess im just lucky
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01-08-2004, 03:50 PM | #10 |
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I dont think they make a two part epoxy paint that is high temp. I have always just gotten all the oil off and shoot with high temp paint only, because I never seen high temp primer. I have done some with zinc-cromate primer and imron, but that just starts to burn off after a while. especially near the head/exhuast ports.
Im with meathead, just wash it off, let it dry for a couple of ours to make sure a the humidity is gone from the cast iron and spray bomb. You will know when you have all the oil off the engine it should start to surface rust within a few hours. Last edited by jamis; 01-08-2004 at 03:57 PM. |
01-08-2004, 06:03 PM | #11 |
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Try POR15 engine paint. I personally have not used it before but have seen trucks with it on, and it looks great. I don't know about the long term though.
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01-08-2004, 08:57 PM | #12 |
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I always go on a bare engine Since primer isnt really rated for high temp .. And before i paint it i wipe it down with lacquuer thinner or b-12 carb cleaner.
Then just paint it thin at first then gradually get thicker as it dries and gets sticky ive never had one peel I use Autozone brand Duplicolor Ive had past expierences with Plasti Kote That paint sucks It is bad about peeling Also the paint that wal mart sells is a dollar cheaper than autozone and same thing Duplicolor. |
01-08-2004, 09:05 PM | #13 |
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I don't use primer either. It gets brittle when heated. I prep my engines by hosing them down with a paint gun full of thinner adjusted for a solid stream, then shoot with regular automotive quality acrylic enamel. The paint seems to last forever. The problem with rattle can paint is that it's too thin, so when it gets heated up it flakes off. Acrylic enamel with a hardner is a little more flexible.
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01-08-2004, 10:05 PM | #14 |
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so it would be best to just wash all the paint off my engine with lacquer thinner and then repaint it?
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2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins, 4 inch lift, 35" Toyo MT's on Ultra wheels, P-Pump Conversion, AFE intake, Fass, 5 inch exhaust, Pyro,Boost,and Fuel pressure guages, and a whole bunch of other stuff "The Money Pit" SOLD-71 Chevy C10 long bed- 2/4 drop-- 350,th400, Edelbrock performer RPM intake,Edelbrock 600 CFM carb,Crower 240 cam,port and polish,Dynomax headers,HEI ignition,dual 2.5 inch exhaust with Flowmaster 50 series mufflers |
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