discouraged

[trac209]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hyde

thats what im thinking i will go for for an approach, today i did a little uphostry took a break from body work, i find if i stick to one thing too long it loses my attention i start making mistakes and i procrastinate. So i ran around took care of a few exhaust things and what not.

I still need a good base for what i am doing tho. so i really need to know..

has anyone had to shim their cab for height

has anyone had to shim the front rad support?

what is the measurement of the front rad support body bushing.

how have guys with ram horn manifold run their exhaust?

has anyone struggled getting their door gaps perfect?

if i want to do a preliminary engine start what do i need to do to start it and kill power to it?

Every truck after 40 plus years of abuse or lack of use is going to be different when it comes to shims here or there etc. trial and error are what's needed in that regard to see if your truck has some tweaks here and there. As for the initial engine start,ideally once you start the engine you want to break in the cam at 2400-2600 RPM for at least 20 minutes without shutting it off. And letting the engine rpm vary between those speeds. In case of a need to turn off engine due to leak over heating a kill switch at the coil will do. Use just water in rad to break in engine and use cam break in lube for best results. Change oil once cam is broken in. Also make sure your valves are adjusted correctly before attempting to start engine,too much cranking without start will have adverse effects to the camshaft.

[GuyO]

I am on my third project, first was the 70 SWB, then the 72 Blazer CST and now the Burb. What I have learned is I start at one end then move forward. This kept me from being in my own way which saved time. Also, I rolled my tools up to where I was working and had portable tables to put the parts on. I was "always moving forward" which made a difference for me and I could see progress which keeps me going!

Door (and hood) gap alignment was best done by expanding the bolt holes with a step drill. All it takes is an 1/8" some times to get it right.

Attached some pics of alternator bracket on the 327 and size of my work space. Good luck and, . . . I think we all get disappointed and discouraged but it does end, then you'll miss it! Guy

[oldschool18]

I had to shim the driver rear corner of my cab about a quarter inch, and I don't even want to start about body lines around the door. The door was hard to get straight but part of the reason was cab, where the cab was welded in the top at the back is wasn't really round it was kinda........I would say not right and I couldn't get the door right. But when its all said and done I'm just trying to get them close cause they weren't perfect when I got it.

[Mr.Hyde]

Ya my cab was miss cab corners pillars outer floor and rockers so it wasn't straight when I got it

[richards72chevy]

I have been told that most older trucks came from the factory with uneven door gaps.I used to get very discouraged but then I started to think hey the only way im going learn is by doing it.I have made many stupid mistakes along the way.Just the other day I spent two hours trying to install my cpp trans crossmember in my 66 after getting really frustrated I came in looked at this this website just to find out I had it in there wrong.

[Mr.Hyde]

So how many of you guys just leave the gaps? What are all the panels ideally supposed to be gapped to?

[Greenlee]

Originally Posted by GoaterAz

I can only tell you what works for me (mechanically a big dummy), I never focus on the big picture. I only focus on small tasks, goals are very important. I'm not talking about "I want my truck to be driving by the end of the year" it's more of "I want take off the water pump, alternator and front pullies tonight."

A mechanic could probably knock that out in 14 minutes, but I take my time, label every single bolt, take pictures and clean the parts after I remove them. Before you know it, 3 hours and a 8 beers later, I've got an organized set of clean parts and a nice buzz going, lol. But seriously, the smaller the goal, the more you will feel accomplished and the more you will enjoy working on the truck. At least for me, when it's done, it won't be nearly as fun as working on it now.

You sound like me. I pick some insignificant small project on the truck and try to finish it. Often with a couple of beers! Some weeks that might be all I got done, and other weeks I might finish a bunch of small projects. Over time it adds up and the truck starts to get finished. After about 4 years I'm about done and kind of wish I had something else to work on! However, I can always find something else to do on it. It seems like these projects are never really done.

[69chevytrucker]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hyde

So how many of you guys just leave the gaps? What are all the panels ideally supposed to be gapped to?

sometime it just wont fit perfect do the door first get it as close as you can then do the front fender it has more play in it and just make sure your door gaps are closest at the front of the window pillar that way no wind noise

[Mr.Hyde]

Ya, I'm actually workin in the garage as we speak, the paint stir stick method works really well. Any tight spots will get ground down and welded so the look proper atleast. At the very least I want to give the illusion of perfection haha. Really appreciate all the advice not I have to figure out my paint because all I have is a 21g compressor and my garage is only a 15a to run the entire thing. I'm thinking keep track of all my shimming and drill holes so I can reference the doors then just use the paint stick method again for fitting. That way I can fit one panel at a time as they get painted.

[Mr.Hyde]

What are the dimensions of the brackets from rad core to fenders? I have some metal I'm thinking I'll just make some with. I would need over all dimension and holes placement.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hyde

What are the dimensions of the brackets from rad core to fenders? I have some metal I'm thinking I'll just make some with. I would need over all dimension and holes placement.

To get the dimensions I would have to disassemble the front of my truck which I will not do BUT, as shown in the assembly drawing, it is a right triangular gusset with the base sides which mount to the core support and the fender 6 inches long with a 90 degree angle between them. They are made of 14 gauge steel. You can use the drill holes in the core support and fenders to make a cardboard drill template. If you have a rafter square drawing up a pattern should be a walk in the park. Bending that stuff won't be! You might be able to get these gussets from a board member here or the local pick a part if they have a 67-72 truck.

[Mr.Hyde]

I was just going to cut the pieces and tig weld the corner joints both sides. My main concern is the hole placement if it dictates any placement of panels.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hyde

I was just going to cut the pieces and tig weld the corner joints both sides. My main concern is the hole placement if it dictates any placement of panels.

Can't help with that but there is one of those brackets on e-bay for 22.00.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1967-68-...a65b2e&vxp=mtr

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by steelhorse

Just like a brick wall, just do 1 piece at a time and it will happen. If it was easy you wouldn't see so many old cars rotting away in peoples back yards. If you want some motivation just look at some of the super nice trucks on this site.

Actually for me what gets me discouraged IS seeing all super nice trucks on this site.. LOL!

[swamp rat]

I just hopped into the main discussion forum for the first time in a while, this thread was on page 2 and the first thread i opened, guess i can sure relate to your being discouraged, there are days and days i feel i'm just getting nowhere, hang in there and don't give up.

I'm not a body man but this is where I'm at on my truck, need to order some repair panels soon for the cab, as far as the bed go's i know the sides and header need to come off so i can treat the rust where there bolted together but i have no way to lift the sides off with the space i have to work with, i'd never get them back on without damaging them.. still not sure how to tackle that one.

[hugger6933]

Do it the same way you eat an elephant one bite and a time and just don't stop chewing. If you ever go over to the paint and body section you may have seen me there I don't intend to board hog but sometimes I'm asked for by name and other they just are asking for help and I have been there sometime over the last 25++ years of owning a body shop and rebuilding wrecks and restoring old muscle and trucks. I always offer up advice to anyone who needs it so if you need to drop me a pm or post you biggest concerns and we will address them and try to wade through and get you on track. Stripping the panels, I try to have people [and do this myself on my stuff in the shop] just strip one at a time. Then prime it with some epoxy primer. That way you don't have four or five panels part way close to being stripped then get taken away and not be able to complete that task. Now on the door gaps put the doors on with fresh hinges or else you'll chaser your tail forever and set the gaps on the parts that you can't move meaning the back and the top and bottom first. The height ought to be close on top and bottom if you get one the other should be very close. The hinges on the truck side move the door forward and backwards the hinges on the door side move the door in and out and that is where the twisting come in from. If needed you can place a shim under the door hinge in a place or two to give you a little additional gap ability. Now you also asked about shimming the cab and core support all of that is quite common given the past lives some of these truck have led. Make sure that the bushings are good before doing that though or it is more tail chasing. That is about all I have time for this morning hope this helps out and gives you something to work with. Holler if you need more help. Always glad to try to help out . Jim