1987 GMC V1500 LS Swap help

[Mr. 250r]

My suburban had all metal lines with a stainless flex near the motor and tank

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Mr. 250r

My suburban had all metal lines with a stainless flex near the motor and tank

Yessir! You are blessed with the rear mount tank. Us saddle bag truck guys got screwed.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

My issue was that I wanted to run all the stuff from the 01 donor, wiring and fuel wise. I ran into the issue of tank just being too damn deep so now I have to find away to make my sender output match what the 01 sender would output as well as figure out how to do the evap stuff and pressure switch.

I think you're gonna hear the same thing from me a few times lol. You may spend more time (and in some cases money), by trying to reuse too much. Its not like the frame bends are going to match any of your 01 stuff, so you'll have to mix n match the old stuff, with the new stuff, and probably a few aftermarket parts anyway.

Since your donor is return style, I'll assume that the plan is to keep it that way, which is fine. I guess I should mention that if you did decide to have a fuel cell made (or bought one sized), you may be able to drop your sending unit/fuel pump assembly into the fuel cell, using the lock ring like stock. PLUS, if you use a fuel cell of similar depth or dimension, then you don't need to worry about "scaling" its readings.

If you keep that sending unit, then the rearmost section of your fuel lines can be reused (use the Evap as a vent). Splice the hardline to some new parts-store hardline, or into your old hardline if its 3/8 and in good shape (and NOT aluminum!).

Run that to the front (pretty much a straight shot along the frame rail), and up the firewall. Once you've got that in place, you can use the donor Nylon lines and PTC, or one of those parts-store Nylon line repair kits. Depending on if the donor's bends fit/line up, you may end up needing to use some parts from the repair kit....in which case just using the repair kits itself to make a new line might be easier. That was a little wordy, but you get the idea.

[NastyBuzzard]

Sounds like a good plan BR3W!!

[NastyBuzzard]

I looked some more at the D.S. frame rail for running fuel line... It is basically bare and empty.. It is real tempting. However, I would like the fuel to be on the p.s. that way it can level out my 190 lb ass in the drivers seat lol. I don't want it to lean

I did some cleaning today though.





Doesn't look too terrible... I mean it did have close to 150k on it. Run her till she goes then swapping in something bigger





I did find this tho... Apparrently it was already sheared and just hangin in there... The rear ones seem to have already been broken too? How the hell to get out. Aluminum scares me.





oh well...



Whats this for?



Also it isn't perfectly clean.. What do yall use for paint? I mostly use duplicoler or rustoleum brands.

Also opinion on painting trans?

My plan is just to pretty much paint the block black.. Cant decide what I want to do about timing cover, oil pan, valve covers, and accessory brackets.. Do yall paint them, they dont seem to clean up easy and just oxidize like a few months down the road.

[BR3W CITY]

I painted my whole trans (as always, check my build!), and the block. No problems as long as you don't paint INTO the diptstick hole or over the electronics.

For the inside of the engine, you can try to steam clean it....or just run it and put a few cans of seafoam through it....like...a BUNCH of cans for that much crap.

The black "paddle" bracket thingy is to protect the fuel rail from getting smacked against stuff....I left it one

I have a DIY media blaster locally, so I can just blast it a few days before paint, without too much delay. I've made it one process; media blast, take home, wipe with solvent, dry, paint with primer. After that I can give it however long before color.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I painted my whole trans (as always, check my build!), and the block. No problems as long as you don't paint INTO the diptstick hole or over the electronics.

For the inside of the engine, you can try to steam clean it....or just run it and put a few cans of seafoam through it....like...a BUNCH of cans for that much crap.

The black "paddle" bracket thingy is to protect the fuel rail from getting smacked against stuff....I left it one

I have a DIY media blaster locally, so I can just blast it a few days before paint, without too much delay. I've made it one process; media blast, take home, wipe with solvent, dry, paint with primer. After that I can give it however long before color.

I'll check your build again. Must be nice to have all that handy! Your process sounds perfect.

I'm not too hell bent on this being super nice... This is my purpose built truck... When I get my CCSB square body now that one will be made to be pretty!