Restoring Hardware ?

[joey8383]

I have a whole new level of appreciation when I read through build threads now. I am NOT making the progress I was hoping for. It's been a slow, tedious task after I finished painting my frame and started going back together with suspension. The small things are killing me. Especially the hardware!!
I have been using the wire wheel on the grinder mostly to clean up bolts, nuts washers etc and then spraying them with a decent aerosol paint that matches my semi gloss frame paint pretty close. After letting them cure I try to install them and the tools are destroying my hardware's finish. Advice??!
Thanks

[69chevytrucker]

little paint brush after your done or tape on your tools

[Grumpy old man]

AU-VE-CO products since 1916 - Carries Just about any type hardware for any automotive application , Buy new their prices are great ! download a free catalog they carry 18,000 items

[Mr.Hyde]

Stainless hardware? Looks amazing against black

[joey8383]

I've considered new hardware but working with a tight budget. I guess I will tape my tools up and get a little brush to fix them. Are you guys blasting your bolt heads or wire wheel or what? It's a slooooooow process.

[Grumpy old man]

You have to consider your time and materials when cleaning old hardware ,Au-ve-co's prices are cheap compared to untold hours of labor ?

[joey8383]

You're right grumpy. I will check out the website when I get to a computer. Thanks again everybody for input.

[Mr.Hyde]

Grumpy has it covered you have to pay yourself once in awhile, I pay myself in stainless bolts. Plus chasing threads and running around with a touch up brush is a pita and more time consuming the spending 40$ and running to the local bolt supply. Only thing not stainless on mine is the stock screws that no one will see. Only thing is remember to use anti seize.

[BigMike]

That's what I did too, stainless ROCKS! I found it fairly expensive (for my budget) online. I found a guy @ the Pomona Swap Meet here in SoCal that sells it by the pound, WAY cheaper that way. I have gone back several times and bought a lot more as extras for my truck & my sons 72 Nova. I bought the button head SS bolts because I liked how clean they look but he has hex as well. I've got about 15 pounds in a bucket

[burb71]

I feel your pain brother, Im trying to do as close to a factory restoration as I can so ( NO STAINLESS for me ) I bead blast small parts and wire wheel all nuts & bolts.
I saw there is a place that you can send all your nut n bolts that refinish them in original Gray or Black phosphate

[briank]

Caswell sells kits to phosphate them yourelves at home, seems pretty easy and isnt very expensive. Im gonna order the kit when I start my restoation.

[hugger6933]

I bought a 18puond tumbler to put a lot of small stuff in, it will fit things as large as the gravel flaps that go under the bed the hood latch bracket and small items like the corner triangle braces. Door hinges will do good in there as well I hope, I have yet to unbox the thing it was just one of those thing I was at the store and it was on sale so I told my self, Self why not. And I look at the box and the buckets of hardware sitting next to it and think of something else to do, but some day soon and when I do I will let y'all know. Jim

[530FF]

I use a large coffe can with a lot of holes in the bottom put hardware inside and use In a glass bead blast cabinet Painless

[FirstOwner69]

Having restored my 58 Corvette to NCRS standards 25 years ago, I wanted the fasteners to be original as much as possible.

This is what I did:
1) Thoroughly wire brushed and cleaned the threads with a die. To clean the heads of the bolts, I clamped a stiff wire brush in a vice, placed the bolts in the chuck of my drill and spun them against the brush at various angles.
2) Degreased.
3) Soaked in hot phosphoric acid (couple hours or as needed...some overnight) to remove the remaining rust. This also turned them black/black phosphated them.
4) Rinsed with water, wiped dry and let completely air dry.
5) Brushed lightly, then soaked in 70% rubbing alcohol, wiped and let completely air dry.
6) Applied liquid gun blue and let soak for 5-10 minutes while keeping them wet with gun blue.
7) Rinsed and dried.
8) Tossed in heated trans fluid for a few minutes then wiped off excess.

The phosphoric acid I used was Klean Strip Prep and Etch from Home Depot. About $16/gallon.

The heated phosphoric acid definitely started the removal/phosphating process faster than cold. Heating the trans fluid probably didn't matter.

I can't say how it will hold up for the long term, but they've held up well since last summer through a very cold winter, lots of humidity and multiple condensation cycles.

This is a lot of work, but it is actually quite satisfying.

[Mr Chevorlet]

get this stuff its called evaporust, you should be able to get it at the auto parts store, it works wonders on nuts and bolts, they look almost like new after 24 hours, just pull them out and wash off . Here is the link to show what it is

http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Ru...FTJp7AodgRcAyQ