Relocating gas tank using one from an '87? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*botboy* · 01-13-2004, 01:50 AM

Wondering if anybody has done this sort of swap. I have an '87 I'm parting out (Check this thread if you want some parts: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=85178). Anyways, I was thinking about how much I dislike having the tank in the cab with me in my '72 C10, and how much I'd rather fill the drafty fuel line holes and put a pair of nice speakers behind the seats.

So, I have a pair of free tanks from a '87 2WD.
I'm sure some people on this board have moved the tank outside of the cab.
Where did you put the tanks on the frame? How did you hold them there? What kind of tanks did you use? Pictures please?

I haven't pulled the tanks yet from the donor truck, would that year have fuel pumps inside the tank or between the tanks and switch/engine? I know that the '87 doesn't have a fuel pump thats actually on the engine.

Would it be wise to install a fuel pressure regulator (I'm still running a carb) and use the pump that is inside the tank (assuming that it is inside the tank not on the frame?) Or to route around the fuel pump and use the pump that is already on the engine in my '72?

thanks for the help.

Rooster's 67 · 01-13-2004, 02:13 AM

is that a leaf or coil truck?

you can probably regulate those TBI pumps down for a carburator.
As far as wiring if you use the right kinda switch and the factory pumps and sending units, when you switch from tank to tank it is just an electrical switch over. nothing mechanical.

But those year tanks have a hump on them and their length may pose a problem also if it is a coil truck, if you look at the back half of the cab on the 73-87 c/k series the floor is raised for tank clearence. either going to have to hump the flor or cut down the tank. they go inside the frame also. and I think the 67-72 frame is narrower at that portion of the frame.

but it would be cool to have saddle duals availible for the coil guys huh?

Rooster's 67 · 01-13-2004, 02:14 AM

probably easier to do a sub/blazer tank conversion. jsut have to cary the spare rather than hang the spare.

*botboy* · 01-13-2004, 02:30 AM

Was thinking about having the spare inside the bed under a tonneu anyways, and only 1 tank in far back (help for traction in these godawful MN winters right?) between the frame rails if that is possible. My truck has coils and while originally equipped with overload coils they broke so I removed them.

How would you regulate those TBI pumps down (aside from resistors and heatsinks, which would be inefficient and sloppy)?

Also, Rooster's 67 how hard is it to get an ASE certification? How much $? I've been working on cars, trucks and tractors since I was 3, I'm now 18 and would much rather work in a shop or garage than where I'm working right now, figure that getting certified would put me ahead of every other arrogant 18 year old who thinks he's good with cars...

*botboy* · 01-13-2004, 02:31 AM

Also would rather have the tank inlet be under the licence plate like it was in my '70 Chevelle...

*botboy* · 01-13-2004, 02:32 AM

oh and are the tank sending units going to output the same voltages? Like I won't have to modify the sending unit or gauge so that when it says "empty" its actually empty...?

*1972C10* · 01-13-2004, 06:00 AM

The gauge would work but it wont fit under the truck i tryed that several years ago them 73 up have the high hump where the seat mounts that clears the tank i ended up putting the tank in the bed back then i was just goin for a saddle tank the gauge worked fine i just hooked it up to a switch . to switch them the gauge part that is.

Rooster's 67 · 01-13-2004, 11:55 AM

botboy,

Youwont fit those tanks at the back of the bed, use a sub/blazer tank and convert it. and you wont be able to have the filler behind the liscense plate(too low) but there are easy ways to rig up a filler.

the fuel pumps pressure you would drop using and external regulator at the motor. holley, barrygrant, and a few others make regulators that would work. If you lower the pumps voltage you will burn the pumps up faster. they are not designed to run a a lower voltage.

As far as ASE you can go to this link to check out more info and cost National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence
first test are more expensive than recertification. but it[ase] at least lets me know that I KNOW what I am talking about(most of the time)

01-13-2004, 01:50 AM	#1
botboy Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Delano, MN Posts: 630	Relocating gas tank using one from an '87? Wondering if anybody has done this sort of swap. I have an '87 I'm parting out (Check this thread if you want some parts: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=85178). Anyways, I was thinking about how much I dislike having the tank in the cab with me in my '72 C10, and how much I'd rather fill the drafty fuel line holes and put a pair of nice speakers behind the seats. So, I have a pair of free tanks from a '87 2WD. I'm sure some people on this board have moved the tank outside of the cab. Where did you put the tanks on the frame? How did you hold them there? What kind of tanks did you use? Pictures please? I haven't pulled the tanks yet from the donor truck, would that year have fuel pumps inside the tank or between the tanks and switch/engine? I know that the '87 doesn't have a fuel pump thats actually on the engine. Would it be wise to install a fuel pressure regulator (I'm still running a carb) and use the pump that is inside the tank (assuming that it is inside the tank not on the frame?) Or to route around the fuel pump and use the pump that is already on the engine in my '72? thanks for the help.

01-13-2004, 02:13 AM	#2
Rooster's 67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: DFW Posts: 765	is that a leaf or coil truck? you can probably regulate those TBI pumps down for a carburator. As far as wiring if you use the right kinda switch and the factory pumps and sending units, when you switch from tank to tank it is just an electrical switch over. nothing mechanical. But those year tanks have a hump on them and their length may pose a problem also if it is a coil truck, if you look at the back half of the cab on the 73-87 c/k series the floor is raised for tank clearence. either going to have to hump the flor or cut down the tank. they go inside the frame also. and I think the 67-72 frame is narrower at that portion of the frame. but it would be cool to have saddle duals availible for the coil guys huh? __________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

01-13-2004, 02:14 AM	#3
Rooster's 67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: DFW Posts: 765	probably easier to do a sub/blazer tank conversion. jsut have to cary the spare rather than hang the spare. __________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

01-13-2004, 11:55 AM	#8
Rooster's 67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: DFW Posts: 765	botboy, Youwont fit those tanks at the back of the bed, use a sub/blazer tank and convert it. and you wont be able to have the filler behind the liscense plate(too low) but there are easy ways to rig up a filler. the fuel pumps pressure you would drop using and external regulator at the motor. holley, barrygrant, and a few others make regulators that would work. If you lower the pumps voltage you will burn the pumps up faster. they are not designed to run a a lower voltage. As far as ASE you can go to this link to check out more info and cost National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence first test are more expensive than recertification. but it[ase] at least lets me know that I KNOW what I am talking about(most of the time) __________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

01-13-2004, 02:30 AM	#4
botboy Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Delano, MN Posts: 630	Was thinking about having the spare inside the bed under a tonneu anyways, and only 1 tank in far back (help for traction in these godawful MN winters right?) between the frame rails if that is possible. My truck has coils and while originally equipped with overload coils they broke so I removed them. How would you regulate those TBI pumps down (aside from resistors and heatsinks, which would be inefficient and sloppy)? Also, Rooster's 67 how hard is it to get an ASE certification? How much $? I've been working on cars, trucks and tractors since I was 3, I'm now 18 and would much rather work in a shop or garage than where I'm working right now, figure that getting certified would put me ahead of every other arrogant 18 year old who thinks he's good with cars...

01-13-2004, 02:31 AM	#5
botboy Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Delano, MN Posts: 630	Also would rather have the tank inlet be under the licence plate like it was in my '70 Chevelle...

01-13-2004, 02:32 AM	#6
botboy Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Delano, MN Posts: 630	oh and are the tank sending units going to output the same voltages? Like I won't have to modify the sending unit or gauge so that when it says "empty" its actually empty...?

01-13-2004, 06:00 AM	#7
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	The gauge would work but it wont fit under the truck i tryed that several years ago them 73 up have the high hump where the seat mounts that clears the tank i ended up putting the tank in the bed back then i was just goin for a saddle tank the gauge worked fine i just hooked it up to a switch . to switch them the gauge part that is.



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