Tell Me About Fatman Fabrication IFS Kits

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi guys,

I've run across a deal on a new-in-the-box IFS kit and I'm strongly considering pulling the trigger on this later today.

Includes cross member, "hats", springs, rotors, calipers, power rack, brake lines, everything I can think of. Not sure if it's a 5x5" or a 5x4.75" lug pattern but I'd have to change wheel plans if it's 5x5.

This will likely be for as much as $500 off regular retail so it SEEMS like a pretty enticing deal.

If you've got one, how was the quality, fit, finish, performance after installed? Would you recommend buying one of these? All input appreciate, Dan

[47 Fasttoys]

Well lets see, they built me a one off unit for a '31 Oakland I used to have. I Installed their standard unit in my '54 (now gone) and 2 years ago I installed one in my '46. Very happy with all 3. I would buy from them again. Quality and customer service is top notch.
Rob

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Rob for the info.

Did the kits fit with a minimum of notching your frames, without substantial grinding, etc?

If I get this kit I would plan to do the installation myself and tack it in with my little Hobart 140, then likely have a professional welder come in and lay down the final welds so they don't look like....well, they would if I did them, lol.

[b.sharp]

Mine slid over the frame with no notch except for the rack notch in the bottom. Very good design. The only issue I have had is a leaky ps unit. Not the racks problem it's a pressure issue with gm unit to MII rack. I have the pressure reducer installed but it still leaks after driving.

Fatman is a top notch company and has great technical support and knowledge of their product.

[_Ogre]

i have the fatman stage II in truk.
fatman only offers stainless tubular a-arms
the instructions are straight forward
i had to replace the poly bushings in the a-arms after 20,000 miles but other than that no problems
worn out bushings also ruined the shocks

make sure the kit is complete or the $500 deal can go south in a hurry, also be sure it is 60.5'' hub to hub
for the record i welded the whole thing in with a lincoln weldpac 100, 115 volt, fluxcore welder

the shock tower hats are 10 ga steel, the cross member is a stick of 3x4x.25 tubing with the rack mount on it
i added the frame gussets for my own piece of mind
motor mounts were a piece of cake off the x-member
if you buy it i will give you some hints and mods i'd like to have done

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so I'm committed to IFS now. I bought the Fatman kit!

As advertised it is new in the boxes, has full instructions, all parts that I can tell from the packing list. The only things it doesn't have - and they're NOT on the packing list, are the frame boxing plates. But I figure I can source replacements for those easily enough. To Ogre: packing list indicates this is a Stage II kit with power rack added. It does NOT have stainless A arms though. Maybe they weren't standard when this kit was originally purchased. I don't mind though.

Now I've gotta figure out how I'm going to rearrange my single file driveway and other toys - boat, Jetskis etc to be able to do the install without blocking things. That's a good problem to have, I suppose.

I bought this from a guy that runs an automotive restoration shop whogot the kit with an aborted project '59 Apache. He said he's going to run a twin turbo big block in it with C5 IFS and a four link in the rear. Just for giggles I asked him what he'd charge to install it? Answer? 35 hours x $98/hr or $3500!!!

I hope to LIKE saying, "I installed it myself" Wish me luck

[NEWFISHER]

Good luck Dan.

Take lot-so-pix so we can play along.

If it would help you, I have a spot next to my dually and camper for a boat. You could bring the boat to my place for the summer?

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

has full instructions
it doesn't have - and they're NOT on the packing list, are the frame boxing plates.
It does NOT have stainless A arms though. Maybe they weren't standard when this kit was originally purchased. I don't mind though.
I hope to LIKE saying, "I installed it myself" Wish me luck

I have the fatman kit too. Its top quality. The directions for installing the cross member are good but for installing the suspension parts the instructions suck. I have an AD but I only had to trim the hats to fit my frame and make the rack notch in the lower side of the frame rail.

I called fatman when I got my kit and they said they don't supply boxing plates. I made some for cheap.

Stainless A arms were an extra $100 so I didn't get them either. The "paint" they put on the parts rusts through fast even inside so plan on painting your A-arms and spindles.

I am a complete novice with a first time build. It took me a weekend to get it all installed. If I can manage anyone can.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Good luck Dan.

Take lot-so-pix so we can play along.

If it would help you, I have a spot next to my dually and camper for a boat. You could bring the boat to my place for the summer?

Ha ha, that actually WOULD be a help! It's a pretty boat but it's getting ZERO use this summer with the new grand babies. Man, it sounds like I'm complaining and I realize I'm absolutely blessed, I've got zero, nothing, nada to complain about.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Root2812

I have the fatman kit too. Its top quality. The directions for installing the cross member are good but for installing the suspension parts the instructions suck. I have an AD but I only had to trim the hats to fit my frame and make the rack notch in the lower side of the frame rail.

I called fatman when I got my kit and they said they don't supply boxing plates. I made some for cheap.

Stainless A arms were an extra $100 so I didn't get them either. The "paint" they put on the parts rusts through fast even inside so plan on painting your A-arms and spindles.

I am a complete novice with a first time build. It took me a weekend to get it all installed. If I can manage anyone can.

Your statement that you're a complete novice and got it installed in a weekend is JUST the confidence builder I needed to read, thank you! I doubt I'll match that as I'll be doing it totally solo, pulling the engine, cleaning, painting, probably filling holes in the firewall, etc.

Checking their website here:
http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/pro...i-hub-hub-kit/

This seems to say the '55-'59 kit is the widened to 60-1/2" hub-to-hub version which runs $1895 plus $469, less $100 for the paint grade A arms. So about $2264 plus tax; which out here is nearly 10%. Allowing another $170 for the power rack that brings the total to about $2650+. I couldn't get the seller to come down much but got it for $1800 so I feel pretty satisfied even if that's not totally accurate.

[fabguy]

If you need help with anything Dan, let me know.

[47 Fasttoys]

Since where showing pictures of Fatmans stuff, I'l show my '46. My install was a little bit different due to the fact that I didn't remove the drive train. I had installed a AMC Pacer IFS back in '99 when I first built the truck, it worked very well for many years but I could no longer find any replacement parts for it so I needed to upgrade. Because of the prior install I had already boxed the frame from the front cross member to the tranny mount.

With the Pacer stuff



Pacer stuff out

What came in the kit + optional: PS rack, sway bar, SS brake lines and PS hose kit.

On the '46 it's a little different in that no notch is required for the rack. A little trimming and a little bending but no notch.



With the MII stuff the wheels are a little more tucked in the fenders and the ride height is a little lower. I used uncut V6 Mustang springs and stock spindles. This truck is my daily driver so I need ride quality over the slammed look. It took 18 hours from start to finish plus 1 hour (after 1 week of driving) at the alignment shop. No, its not an AD, but it is an AD's older brother.
Rob

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Rob.
I had a '46 for a while and I loved it.


A previous owner had installed Jaguar ifs and irs in it but he did it a bit crudely. Never installed shock absorbers up front! The rear was the entire stock Jag cage welded under the rear frame rails and as you can see the coil overs were a bit tired. It had a 350/350 combination and ran very well.....but ultimately it wasn't the truck of my dreams. I'd always wanted a '55 big window truck and so I let it go.

I didn't get the sway bar with this kit and I'll probably call Fatman and see what it'll cost to buy just that. My kit is still in the back of my driver. I need to get it out, spread it on the workbench and take a couple pictures to post.

Did you weld in all your own stuff? Now that Ogre is saying he welded in his kit with 110v flux core welder I'm debating if I could/should attempt it myself with my Hobart Handler 140? I've only got .023" wire in it (sheet metal rust repair) and I suppose I'd have to use heavier wire? But what size/type? I'm running ArCO2 gas, which I assume would still be ok for this work? Any welding advice is appreciated including, "Pay a pro welder with a better machine to do it" - if that's what you really think.

[ChuckDriver]

Nice score Dan! Looking forward to seeing your progress on the install. You could always tack it in place and make it a roller to confirm the placement and then have it burned in by a "pro" or start practicing with your welder and build skills and confidence!!

[b.sharp]

This is my '37 with the Fatman MII front end and 2" dropped spindles. Rides great and cruises at 80mph on the interstate with no problems with steering or anything. Good luck on the install.

[_Ogre]

post a pic of the x-member
if your x-member is a rectangular tube w/ tapered ends and the v-cut for rack clearance
cut a 1x1 section out for oil pan clearance, weld in some 10 gauge steel at an angle
this will give you a few more options on where to mount the motor, currently my pan has 1/2'' clearance
works fine with a stock distributor but my distributor is bigger and i had to make a recess in the firewall

use a ford power steering pump, the gm pumps have to much pressure and flow
or: install the flow reducer for the gm pump google what i underlined for many results
i bought a flow reducer off ebay that works fine with my gm pump
too much flow gives a floating feeling going down the road at highway speeds and can blow the seals out of the rack or leak past the seals

do not worry about the ride height until you have everything together; everything
don't use dropped spindles, you've seen how low truk rides, 2'' further down would give driveabilty/steetability issues

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks JJ!

More than likely I'll end up hiring a pro to do final welding. I try to follow the,
"Make it Stop, Make it Go, Make it Cool" maxim.

Making sure the welding is totally proper and safe is a high priority for me.

B.Sharp - LOVE your truck, man. The early trucks just have so much style and I admit I'm especially fond of Rally's that have been done like yours and JJ's.

The packing slip I got with this kit indicates the lug pattern is 5x5. If that's correct my vintage Torq Thrusts aren't going to fit. I can try swapping them (since they're brand new) with 5x4.75 ones from Fatman or I can switch to Rally's which I wouldn't mind at all. I'd likely do them in bright red with ribbed narrow beauty rings and either police center caps or early Chevy hubcaps.

[ChuckDriver]

Or have a good machine shop re-drill the rotors to 5X4.75!

[47 Fasttoys]

Yes, I welded mine in. I have a Lincoln 135 Amp and I use .023 wire with Co2AR mix. The same as you have. I have used it to weld in my last 2 units with no weld issues. Practice a little on some scrap steel and go for it. I use my trucks as trucks, bounce them around the field. haul way to much weight and tow car trailers. No issues yet.
Rob

[Dan in Pasadena]

Rob,
With .023" did you have to make multiple passes to build up a more substantial bead or do you just make a bigger diameter weld puddle to create a larger weld bead?

Other things I have been thinking about once I start on the installation is the need to buy a steering column to replace the stock one, and how much time it'll take me to
- pull/clean/detail the engine
- patch a BUNCH of holes in the firewall, bodywork and paint.

I'm pretty sure stuff will lead to other stuff, "while I'm at it". Oh well, it'll be worth it once it's done.

[47 Fasttoys]

Larger puddle, you may want to consider modifying the original column. I did mine and am very happy with it. Kinda sounds like this may turn into a complete rebuild. Careful, careful.
For me it has always worked out better to do major jobs on a fixed timetable. Make a solid plan and you will achieve solid results. Get to far in and a few week-ends may turn into a few years.
Love your truck, whatever you do I'm sure it will turn out nice.
Rob

[_Ogre]

with multiple passes you can weld pretty thick metal with the small welders.
even with the bigger welders that is the correct way to weld.

now your into modifying steering and brakes
decide if you want the stock column modified or if you want the tilt, multifunction, hazzards, hi/lo beam and key on the column

now you need the split disc/drum master cylinder and decide if you want power or manual brakes

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

with multiple passes you can weld pretty thick metal with the small welders.
even with the bigger welders that is the correct way to weld.

Yes, very familiar with that process as my day job is construction quality manager for Metro out here. We do lots of heavy structural steel work as support of excavation in our underground stations.. If course what we're talki ga out here is no where near the same scale, but when multiple passes are required typically there are preheat requirements, an established sequence for placing the passes and back scarfing sometimes to aid with penetration.

In the case of this welding, IF I did it I think I'd just grind a small bevel onto the crossmember and do a couple broad passes.

Originally Posted by _Ogre

...now your into modifying steering and brakes
decide if you want the stock column modified or if you want the tilt, multifunction, hazzards, hi/lo beam and key on the column...

I'm pretty sure I'd like a tilt column but having had them in other cars I found I adjusted them once and left it that way. Yeah, having the hazards on the column, etc would be good but I already have hazards on my add-on column mounted signal box, I have floor mounted high beams, and I prefer the key on the dash - old school, you know! Lol. I suppose for safety reasons a collapsible column is reason enough but add self canceling signals and I'll probably go for
A tilt column. I've heard pretty short one is the way to go, like 30". Was that your experience? I'm 5'-10"

Originally Posted by _Ogre

...now you need the split disc/drum master cylinder and decide if you want power or manual brakes

Fortunately I already scored a Craigslist deal on a CPP frame mounted manual master cylinder. My cam doesn't allow my engine to develop much vacuum so my intent has been to use the manual MC. But with this work the engine will be out so the slipper slope will have me thinking about swapping cams, "while I'm in there"!