no oil to rockers-1950 216

[William Stewart]

Guys,

I posted a while back about sticky intake valves in my 1950 pickup 216.

Head off, and guides cleaned with a .45 barrel brush. Runs good, with 120 PSI compression on all six. When I pulled the rocker shaft there was no apparent wear and the amount of oil looked about right.

Noticed, while setting the valve clearance, that there was no oil coming thru the rocker holes. Disconnected the oil line to rocker shaft fitting and no oil flow.

Checked for blockage in the line- could blow thru with little resistance. ??? Does this mean the line is broken or disconnected (somehow) at the oil distributor? The shop manual doesn't show how the line is connected at the inlet end.

I hate the idea of pulling the sideplate again, and need to use the truck around town tomorrow.

Ideas?

Bill

[William Stewart]

Another thing I just noticed- Like just about every 216 I've ever seen, cold start oil pressure would peg the gauge, then drop to about 15 PSI as it warmed up. Not now. Since the valve work, pressure goes to maybe 12 on start and runs at 8-10.

Does this sound like some kind of internal blockage, leak or bypassing? Oil is fresh SAE30.

Distributor was out, but pump drive must be in OK, or no pressure at all.

Anybody solve this mystery?

Bill

[dwcsr]

There is a copper line that runs through the block up to the rocker, It gets broken in the block and may need to be replaced or clogged, it could also be the oil distributor valve stuck open. Take off the cover and pull out the valve plate and check the spring and plunger.

The line goes from the plate below the exhaust manifold through the block up lifter cover and to the head.


Line kit
http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/p...9&i=10352|||||

If the valve is broken I do have some used ones in good shape.

[William Stewart]

Hi Dave.

Once more to the rescue. The copper line is clear-in fact so clear that there seems to be no resistance at all when I blow into it. (I had expected to have to blow the line clear with compressed air). Also no coolant anywhere so the line must be OK inside the water jacket. I'm wondering if there might be a piece of cork holding the relief valve open since my starting and running oil pressure seems to be lots lower since the head work. A couple of pieces of cork sparkplug gasket fell into the crankcase drainback and may be the problem.

Will try to spin the oil pump fast to see what the pressure does, then pull the oil distrib. cover if no oil at the rockers. Can you tell me where I can find drawings of the oil distributor?

Best, Bill Stewart

[dwcsr]

try this

http://1954advance-design.com/Web%20...l-distributor/

[William Stewart]

Dave,

Here is the latest on no oil flow thru rocker arm oil line. I hooked up a hose to the oil line and checked for any blockage. Not even any resistance to air flow. This could mean a leak in the line behind the pushrod sideplate, but I ran the engine with the sideplate off before pulling the head and no obvious leaks. The air could be passing from the oil line supply hole in the distributor plate, into the oil gallery port to the connecting rod splash system.

If this is so, then the splash setup isn't getting oil either because the distributor valve is stuck closed. Wow! Not happy about crawling under in my driveway. I can't figure how the valve being stuck open would figure in this. Hope that I can save the gaskets, or locate new ones ?

Thanks a lot for the material you forwarded. I noticed that the side of my (earlier) 216 is a little different from the photos. The line from the bottom of my partial flow oil filter enters the crankcase just below the forward part of the distributor cover, and there is a fitting behind and above it with a tee to the filter and the pressure gauge. This line heats up and pressure indicates. The oil line from the distributor casting to the rockers is about like mine. Any thoughts?

Best, Bill Stewart

[dwcsr]

It is also possible that the pressure valve in the pump is hung open on a piece of gasket or other item. I'll bet if you take the pan down you'll find an inch of sludge.

I think at this point with all the issues you have had with oiling and rockers, I'd pull the pan and check the pump, the pump tubing, tighten the tube nuts and make sure the screen is clear and not damaged. You can pull the pump cover and make sure the valve is clear and working. I would not mess with the bearings, dippers and squirters unless something is broken. Just clean out the sludge and make sure the pump is in good shape, then put the pan back up with RTV.

[William Stewart]

Dave,

The engine is a rebuild with 9600 miles in about 11 years. Was weekly to monthly driver. Regular annual oil changes and no sludge in sideplate or rocker box. Wish I'd taken a picture of how clean and oily the rockers were when I pulled the cover.

Just one question for now- If the rocker shaft oil line allows free air flow into the oil distributor and the valve is stuck open, how come no oil up the line when running? The big port in the distributor plate leads to the rod oiling manifold. If no oil to the rockers thru the smaller port, maybe no oil to the rods as well?

Here is what I'm going to do: Warm up.

Pull ignition distributor and spin oil pump, checking pressure.
1000 pump RPM should give me 14 PSI etc.

If still no flow thru rocker oil line, then pull sideplate to be sure oil line not leaking.

If no leak, then pull oil distributor and check for whatever.

Do you stock the gaskets for the oil dist?

Best, Bill

[William Stewart]

Mystery solved, the pushrod did it.

Now for some cleanup and sweating a split tube patch on the line.

Leak worn on rear of oil line not visible unless under pressure.

Thanks for suggestions.

Anybody know the purpose of the whole "oil distributor" setup?

Bill Stewart

[OrrieG]

Good you found it and did not have to go internal.