TCI to start new R&D Project with a C10!

[dirtyjim]

will the parts be available separately? I'm interested in the c-notch/panhard & upper coilover mounts. right now I'm running an old cpp coilover setup on the rear of my truck but the upper mounts are set up for a 4" stroke coil-over and I'd like to upgrade to at least 5" stoke for more suspension travel and it looks like your upper mounts would be just about perfect. right now I have to run a stiffer spring than I would like to keep it from bottoming
I was going to fab my own but if I can get the yours without having to buy the whole setup that's the way i'll go, and more than likely end up with your complete rear set up before its all over.

back 20 years ago when I was a teenager I installed and helped install a lot of tci suspension parts at a little street rod shop near spring texas. I worked for free in return for left over parts. when I tubbed my 72 the narrowed rear axle, wheel tubs, wheels and 14/32 pro-tracs cost me a whole whopping $200 installed. sometimes working for free is good

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Mike I had to take a close look after you posted this and was wondering how that would work. Well it looks like it will work fine. the truck arms we are used to are not truck arms at all. There is a pivot in the back making this a true 3 link. Kinda slick the way it is done.
Jimmy

I see what you're saying now. I didn't notice those pivot points before in the pics, thanks for pointing that out!

[slow4dr]

Originally Posted by Cole Trickle

Any guess on retail pricing yet?

Not yet, but we are making fixtures now so labor time studies will be very soon. There are so many new parts in this kit that are bigger (more welding)and far more heavy duty than what we're used to I wouldn't even come close to venturing a guess.

Originally Posted by dirtyjim

will the parts be available separately? I'm interested in the c-notch/panhard & upper coilover mounts. right now I'm running an old cpp coilover setup on the rear of my truck but the upper mounts are set up for a 4" stroke coil-over and I'd like to upgrade to at least 5" stoke for more suspension travel and it looks like your upper mounts would be just about perfect. right now I have to run a stiffer spring than I would like to keep it from bottoming
I was going to fab my own but if I can get the yours without having to buy the whole setup that's the way i'll go, and more than likely end up with your complete rear set up before its all over.

back 20 years ago when I was a teenager I installed and helped install a lot of tci suspension parts at a little street rod shop near spring texas. I worked for free in return for left over parts. when I tubbed my 72 the narrowed rear axle, wheel tubs, wheels and 14/32 pro-tracs cost me a whole whopping $200 installed. sometimes working for free is good

With any kit we sell there are multiple sub-kits within the BOM (Bill of Materials). For instance a complete rear suspension will typically have 10 to 15 sub part #'s. Ranging from Coil-overs, crossmembers, link bars, panhard bar, axle brackets etc. Any of these sub part #'s will be available separately.

-J

[dirtyjim]

thanks

[slow4dr]

We just received our first article spindles yesterday. This was one of the most important pieces to the puzzle. We still have a lot of time studies to accomplish but we're moving very quickly, so quickly that many of the R&D projects are finished and have moved into the production department.














-J

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Awesome! Will these be machined specifically for your front suspension, or will they be compatible with stock ball joints?

[Nola67]

Nice..
Did the blue.truck ever get wheals.and tires? Itching to see the stance on this set up

[slow4dr]

Originally Posted by GEARBOXGARAGE

Awesome! Will these be machined specifically for your front suspension, or will they be compatible with stock ball joints?

We are going to use an OEM upper and a Moog K719 Lower.

Originally Posted by Nola67

Nice..
Did the blue.truck ever get wheals.and tires? Itching to see the stance on this set up

Not yet, but we submitted all the specs to American Racing (18"x11") but we won't be ready for a few weeks. We've been working with American Racing and Falken with two other projects and they've been great to work with. Here's a teaser of a photo shoot American Racing coordinated that we did last week with one of the other projects. We pushed the limits on this car (265's on the front of an early Nova) and we plan to do the same on the C10.







-J

[Nola67]

Haha, thats not a truck... but I think it will hold me over on my pic craving.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Nola67

Haha, thats not a truck... but I think it will hold me over on my pic craving.

Dueces are cool......

[Nola67]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Dueces are cool......

No argument here.

[68c10airstream]

A few geometry questions, how do you adjust caster and camber? Shims behind upper control arm cross shaft. If so doesn't this effect the center line that is supposed to run through the center of the cross shaft through the inner tie rod end and down through the lower cross shaft to eliminate bumpsteer? I have been curious about the factory bumpsteer values in comparison to this newer style front end. I noticed the bumpsteer gauge being used but no values. I believe the front ends on the market that have adjustable upper control arms that lengthen or shorten as needed for caster and camber would not alter the bumpsteer values. Anybody ever dig into scrub radius, what backspacing in conjunction with wheel diameter to yield a certain scrub radius value? In the early 80's as a subaru mechanic, the factory advertised zero scrub radius. This was the center of the footprint at the pavement was exactly where the SAI (steering axis inclination) imaginary centerline through the ball joints ran down to the pavement and contacted at exactly the same point as the center of the contact patch of the tire. Our dealership installed aftermarket wheel that were dished outward ( wider track width) and we battled with steering wheel shake, sensitive steering, etc. Reinstalled factory wheels and all problems gone. Obviously manual steering on this application.

[slow4dr]

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

A few geometry questions, how do you adjust caster and camber? Shims behind upper control arm cross shaft. If so doesn't this effect the center line that is supposed to run through the center of the cross shaft through the inner tie rod end and down through the lower cross shaft to eliminate bumpsteer? I have been curious about the factory bumpsteer values in comparison to this newer style front end. I noticed the bumpsteer gauge being used but no values. I believe the front ends on the market that have adjustable upper control arms that lengthen or shorten as needed for caster and camber would not alter the bumpsteer values. Anybody ever dig into scrub radius, what backspacing in conjunction with wheel diameter to yield a certain scrub radius value? In the early 80's as a subaru mechanic, the factory advertised zero scrub radius. This was the center of the footprint at the pavement was exactly where the SAI (steering axis inclination) imaginary centerline through the ball joints ran down to the pavement and contacted at exactly the same point as the center of the contact patch of the tire. Our dealership installed aftermarket wheel that were dished outward ( wider track width) and we battled with steering wheel shake, sensitive steering, etc. Reinstalled factory wheels and all problems gone. Obviously manual steering on this application.

Sorry for the late reply, we just got back from the Street Rod Nationals today.

I forwarded your message over to Sal for a reply. Here is what he said.

"The front end was designed with the front wheel centered and 6 degrees of positive caster. This will equal .015 bump steer(Toe Out) at full compression. The upper control arm mount has 10 degrees of anti-dive. The spindle inclination is 8 degrees which I is the same as the factory spindle and the camber will be adjusted via the shims. There is .5 degree negative gain at 1 inch of bump. We purposely kept the stock track width so the scrub value would be as close to zero as possible. With a wider front wheel the value will change. With a 9.5" x 3.25" back spacing and a 27” diameter tire the scrub radius was 2.25". By eliminating the steering box we will be able to run at least an 11" wheel up front. We made the steering arms bolt on so we could test and make any changes necessary to improve the suspension even further if necessary and run a 15” wheel. -Sal"

-J

[68c10airstream]

Sal, thanks for taking the time and posting the results. I'm opting to go to about a 29" diameter tire, 20x8 rim with 4" backspace, which if my math is correct will yield just under 1" scrub radius. My next concern will be if the tire will fit inside the wheel well without rubbing. I'm currently running stock new ece coils with a ece 2 1/2" drop spindle, 72 and up thick stock rotors with 15x8 factory rallies with about 4" backspace and a 26 1/2" diameter tire. If you feel the hub face is in the same spot as what you are designing i will take my existing tire and add additional dimension to it and check for rubbing. Thanks again for your help, Brian Fuller

[slow4dr]

We're a couple days behind schedule but here are a couple updates.

The time studies for the crossmember and lower control arms are complete after 10 sets were finish welded.





A small but significant change to the Torque Arm.





-J

[Nola67]

Looking good. Cant wait to see it all together on a truck

[PGSigns]

Good to see the progress. How is the truck coming?
Jimmy

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by slow4dr

A small but significant change to the Torque Arm.


-J

I was curious how well the fixed/poly Torque arm bushing would work w/the articulating lower links. I guess this answers that question.....

[65Gregg]

Great looking product! I think y'all should send it to me and I'll do a time study on how long it takes a regular C10 owner to install

[slow4dr]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Good to see the progress. How is the truck coming?
Jimmy

The truck is at a stand still until we finalize the parts. We've been gathering parts for it though and expect it to be done this year.

Originally Posted by 65Gregg

Great looking product! I think y'all should send it to me and I'll do a time study on how long it takes a regular C10 owner to install

LOL


-J

[dmooreco]

Updates? Pricing?

[slow4dr]

Pricing was just announced this week. Out of respect for this forum (we still haven't finalized our vendor status) I won't post it here. I will post it on the P/T.com website shortly.

-J

[s_nova69]

I have to say my opinion is the price is 40% too high. I would be very interested at a better price point.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

so around 10k is what were looking at....hmm

[slow4dr]

I've been working on the Install Manual. Here are a couple teaser shots.
































-J