1963 custom c10

[LuckyLightning]

I finally got her home. You can see this thread about my ordeal with towing the truck. I'll use my other (wrecked) '63 as a donor truck (history of truck here).

The previous previous owner removed the stock rear end and replaced it with a Ford 9" rear end. Ugh. Also removed the coil springs and installed leaf springs. He didn't even properly remove the trailing arms: he just cut them off at the frame. I assume this was all to support the flatbed he also installed (even though this is only a half ton truck).

The previous owner decided to replace the front drums with discs, however he never finished so there are currently no brakes.

The truck hasn't run in a year, so I need to get her to start. Then I'll need to get her to stop. I'll get the missing brake components and rear end from my other '63 donor, to try to keep it mostly stock (I don't know enough about brakes to do anything fancy), and I also want to get back to 6-lug wheels.

Still on the fence about keeping the leaf springs. I like them, but will need to see if the stock '63 rear end will go under there without needing to fab/mod leaf mounts.

I like the idea of a flatbed (it's a welders bed that is homemade fabricated and has a nifty toolbox and 5th wheel ball), but I may sell it to get some cash to go toward a '62 3/4 ton I also have my eye on.

Pics: The missing parts such as grill, lights, etc. are safe in my garage already -

[Ta2Don]

I'm in for the ride…

[LuckyLightning]

I was finally able to go out and inspect the truck further yesterday. Today I went out there and took some pictures. I discovered quite a few things...

Is this the stock shifter?


Rust on the flatbed is worse than I realized:













What kind of trailer light connector is this?


Has anyone seen the inside of a windshield do this?


Also, it looks like someone maybe has replaced the windshield once already (and did not do a great job minding the seal) -





Would it be unwise to remove the windshield to replace the seal, when the glass has a crack like this? It's an "L" shape crack, not a "U" shape:


Front brakes replaced with disc... sort of. PO never finished it, so there is only one caliper on passenger side and lines are still cut. He said the spindles and rotors are from an '88, but I didn't think those would bolt right in - anyone know?


Engine has an electric fuel pump (old mechanical is still in though) -


The previous previous owner (PPO from here on out) was a welder, not a bolter. He welded on everything he replaced. Here is where the flatbed is connected:



I haven't seen the chassis of a lot of these trucks, but I've never seen the drive shaft set up quite like this (in three pieces). I imagine it was done to get the Ford rear end in there. The PO said the rear end needed a "spider" connector or something, anyone know what that is?







And lastly, the rear springs. The PPO cut off the trailing arms and coil springs, and welded in the leaf springs:




Bump stop taking some punishment...


So, new plan. Since I have another '63 donor, I'd rather return this truck to stock/running condition since I don't want to mess with the variable of modified brakes and a non-Chevy rear end:
- remove disc brakes from front, replace with drums from donor
- remove rear end setup, replace with stock Chevy rear end, coil springs, trailing arms from donor

I'm on the fence about selling the whole truck once I get it rolling (and stopping). The bed for sure is going. I really just want to find a 4x4 chassis and put the '63 body on it. I got this truck to use for hauling parts for the 4x4 project, but I am still lined up to purchase a '62 3/4 ton at the end of August (cab issues outlined here), that I may just use that instead as a driver while I get a 4x4 project going.

[1963c-10]

Welcome. I'm sure others will chime in on the frame and bed issues, but as for the windshield. It will need replaced. I have seen quite a few separate like that one. It will not reinstall in the condition its in (really anything more than a chip or two will cause issues on reinstall). Looks like the PO put a lot of love in to the truck, but causes a lot of headaches for the next owner. Would be cool to see it returned to its former glory.

[66Submarine]

Looks slightly less rusty than the 62. I like the flatbed.

The driveshaft looks like the standard four speed setup; the slip yoke is in the middle of the driveshaft with those. Is reverse to the right like that? I'd guess it's a later SM465 if it is. Trailer connector is the old 6 pin type; you might also find a trailer brake controller somewhere. http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

BTW, would you mind snapping a picture of how the HEI coil mounts to the side of the block? I have a remote coil HEI setup like that missing whatever mounting hardware it came with.

[LuckyLightning]

66Submarine, I'd be happy to. I should be able to post the pictures tomorrow. Let me know if you want any specific angles, etc.

[LuckyLightning]

Looks like the SM465 ("Muncie") wasn't made by GM until 1968, so this would mean it's not the original transmission. I can't tell if I'm excited or dreading the discovery process of all the modifications made to this truck.

I just did a quick search on that electric fuel pump. Seems that brand ( Mr. Gasket) is 50/50 at best, based on reviews. I may need to replace it with another brand ( Airtex I think) soon.

[TJ's Chevy]

Welcome aboard! That flat bed was welded on about as bad as mine was! lol! Took a good couple hours to cut mine off and put an original style bed back on. What type of 6 banger is in there? I'm betting 230?

[LuckyLightning]

Thanks TJ. Yeah, I think it's a 230 too. I haven't had a chance to give it a closer look to verify though.

[LuckyLightning]

66Submarine, here are some pics. I'm not sure if they'll show what you're looking for (some are not very good since the angle was difficult), so I made some video as well.










Video 1 (from the top)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6Mu75d_XrI

Video 2 (from under the truck)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IOZ6lCN3DY

Hope that helps!

[gimmy 64]

if you want to keep the leaf springs. look for a gmc rear end. don't know if spring perches will match up but 99% of gmc came with leafs

[LuckyLightning]

Thanks gimmy. I had thought about that, but I have zero access to any means of fabrication, so the GM rear axle will have to be able to bolt on 100%. Instead of searching and testing, I can just go to my '63 donor and pull the trailing arms, coil springs, and rear axle and bolt them in to this C10.

[66Submarine]

Thanks, those pictures were great. Someone put the coil in mine on the wrong side of the bracket and upside down.

[LuckyLightning]

Glad to help 66!

[LuckyLightning]

I have been some time on the truck everyday, even if just for a little bit. Aside from messing with the front brakes, I also am addressing the paint job.

The PPO must have painted it red, and then the PO started to paint it blue, but didn't finish. Plus rust was making a comeback, so I had a "calico" truck. Need to fix that.

I'm going with rattle-can satin black, which is an inspiration from the truck on the cover of the LMC catalog 2013 Fall edition (CBE.52).



Started sanding on the passenger side, which had most of the color personality disorder:






Quarter panel will be fun:




Getting some color on the grill and headlight mounts, and front of truck:




Having an issue with starting the truck. PO said it ran fun up until a year ago when he started the front brake swap, and just never started it after that.



Right now when I turn the key, I see the voltage draw down, but nothing moves under the hood (not the starter, no clicking - it's like I'm not even turning the key). I thought maybe testing the batter and the starter would show what's wrong, but no. Video here of the tester showing volts never go below 9v when turning the key.

Need to do some research...