door jamb switch installation

[Tom Vogel]

OK... how do these things go in? There was no nut with the switches, so I purchased some jamb nuts... How do you reach the backs of the switches to get the nuts on? much less reach the switch with the wire. Shoot, I pulled the old ones off there over five years ago.... Im stumped.
TIA, Tom

[JimKshortstep4x4]

The original switches had a fine thread male end on them that screwed into the tapped hole in the door post.

Jim

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by JimKshortstep4x4

The original switches had a fine thread male end on them that screwed into the tapped hole in the door post.

Jim

Well, these have what appears to be course threads, and they dont go all the way to the end/base. Also, if they were self tapping, that doesnt explain how you would get the male wire end pluged in there...
These switches, and the harness, are from American Aurowire... if that helps.

[Tom Vogel]

Cmon guys, sombody knows the answer.

[sneakysnake]

IIRC, you push the wire through the hole first. You hook it to the switch, then screw it into the hole in door jamb.The switch should thread into the hole with no nut.

[faribran]

i second Sneakysnakes answer

[BLACK AND BLUE 67-72]

You have to hook up the wire first, then screw it into the door jamb.

[71 super]

Use a fish wire to pul the wire through the hole first, attach the wire to the switch and then thread the switch bach into the threaded hole in the door jamb. From there it is a s simple as hooking the switch wire in series to the dome light/cargo light if equiped.

[Tom Vogel]

Wow... darnit. These switches and the small wire loom that goes with them came from AAW (they look great btw). There dont appear to be any threads in the hole in the door jambs... More importantly, the threads on the switchs dont go all the way to the base/hilt of the switch... so... if you screw the switch in to the stop, the switch just rattles loose from side to side. I wish I could get my pictures down sized enough to fit them on this site... Ive got a new (actually older) camera that have a lower pixel size, so maybe that will work. Then I could post a picture of the switch.

[sneakysnake]

You can use "paint" to resize your pics.
Here is a pic I found of the switches
http://www.manestruckparts.com/store...&Category_ID=8

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by sneakysnake

You can use "paint" to resize your pics.
Here is a pic I found of the switches
http://www.manestruckparts.com/store...&Category_ID=8

That is not the switch I have! My threads are different; they dont go all the way to the nut. Ill have to order those. As for resizing, I have several applications for that, they just wont let me get them down to 100KB.

[sasquatch58]

you have to tap the drilled hole with a tap &die bit.then the switch screws into the newly made threads.

[Linus6129]

so the wire that goes to the switch, is that the negative for ground that activates the light?

[Linus6129]

if that is the case where the switch grounds creating a closed circuit for ground, then you must need a seperate power feed for the light itself because the power to the light now is created by the potientometer within the light switch. CORRECT ?

[LockDoc]

-
I just posted these in another thread. I will post them here too. This is an original setup.

LockDoc

[davepl]

To the above, yes. The courtesy light circuits are on BAT (+) meaning they have 12V at all times regardless of whether the key is on or not. The various means of turning on the courtesy lights (primarily the door pins or headlight switch) connect the lights to ground via the white wire.

Normally orange is the positive, white the negative.