My new remote starter solenoid

[Highsider]

After trying many solutions for heat-related starter problems, I bought new cables and a $13.99 AutoZone fire wall-mounted F**d solenoid.

I haven’t been stranded yet and I feel good the starter doesn’t have a hot cable hooked to it 24/7.



One odd thing was the solenoid I bought showed the “starter” “ignition” posts were reversed.
Of course I figured it was a mis-print, until I switched the hook-up to a “starter on right” and nothing happened. (easy swap back of course).

[poncho_villa]

I also installed one of these years ago for the same reason. A mechanic buddy of mine could not stand to see a f**d part installed on a chevy so he replaced it with a relay of some sort. I guess they perform the same job.

[Speedbumpauto]

The diagram doesn't show a cable(wire) to power the solenoid on a GM style starter. It's absolutely critical. The way it's shown there, the starter would spin but it would not engage the flywheel. I just finished the same type of mod on the 55 for the same reasons but left the battery cables where they normally are and used the Ford starter switch to control a 10 gauge wire directly from the battery to the solenoid and took the purple wire that normally goes to the GM solenoid and attached it to the S terminal of the starter switch. It's actually the heat soak of the solenoid windings that causes the hard start situation and adding heavier wire and a direct current source to that winding usually overcomes the problem. I suppose, using the diagram shown, one could run a wire from the large battery terminal on the solenoid to the S terminal on the solenoid and it would act the same as the old screwdriver trick we used back in the day. I prefer to keep the circuits separate.

[1project2many]

I suppose, using the diagram shown, one could run a wire from the large battery terminal on the solenoid to the S terminal on the solenoid and it would act the same as the old screwdriver trick we used back in the day.

Some folks make a jumper but if the solenoid engages after the motor there will be a crash when the starter gear hits the flywheel. I've also used 12ga wire from the aftermarket solenoid to the GM S terminal. I think in this case the firewall mounted solenoid is in parallel with the GM solenoid.

A heat shield cuts down on this problem in many cases.

For reference, the starter from a 99 G30 5.7 (not the only application) will outlast the old Delco starter. You'll need to use the large flywheel though.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

A heat shield cuts down on this problem in many cases.

the heat shield that most gm vehicles come with and typically gets tossed when swapping starters will solve most heat soak problems

[mr48chev]

On the jumper on the Gm solenoid. I took a piece of copper tubing, flattened it and drilled two hole in it, one for the post for the cable and one for the "S" post and installed it on the solenoid. That kicks the solenoid in when you activate the Ford solenoid. Some of the 30.00 remote solenoid kits have a similar piece in them.

[Highsider]

Ooops, forgot to mention what I have tried, so far...
I have the 12ga jumper wire, Vette starter, 1000 cranking amp Interstate battery, 00 battery wire direct to the starter (before this revision) and who wants to buy my heat shield?*



*joke, not offer to sell

[Katrina/10]

I tried the Ford solenoid to fix a dragging hot starter on my 55, and it didn't help at all. Retarded the timing, new cables and battery, no good. I put a starter for a 95 truck on it, and cured it. Took the Ford solenoid off.

[Highsider]

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

I tried the Ford solenoid to fix a dragging hot starter on my 55, and it didn't help at all. Retarded the timing, new cables and battery, no good. I put a starter for a 95 truck on it, and cured it. Took the Ford solenoid off.

Is that a gear-reduction style starter? Does it sound different than a typical starter?
Small body?

[jjzepplin]

I put a new stock starter and rear starter brace and followed instructions closely on gear clearance. Then I put an Aux battery in and two solenoids. One for each battery. So when I hit the key it gets power from both batteries.
Also good for jump starting.
I also put in a battery isolator for charging them both independently.
Thing cranks like crazy now.
I did this all when my mini starter drive failed.
I finally found a drive on ebay but it was still a little looser than I like.
I am going to be towing some big trailers and future plans include a retro slide in camper.
So I was gonna do it anyway.
Big plus is I don't have to get all greasy now when I need to hook up a starter button.
Oh and the hard cranking at the gas pump isn't there and I don't get that sinking feeling that I'm gonna need a tow.

[Katrina/10]

Originally Posted by Highsider

Is that a gear-reduction style starter? Does it sound different than a typical starter?
Small body?

I don't think it is a gear reduction, it is very small. I believe it is called a permanent magnet motor, takes less current to turn than one of the old big ones. It bolts directly to the engine block, so you need starter holes there. It fits inside the starter opening of the 55 bellhousing.

It does make a little bit higher pitch sound when cranking. This truck would not start hot under any circumstances with the big starter. Now it spins great no matter how hot it is.

[Highsider]

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

I don't think it is a gear reduction, it is very small.
It does make a little bit higher pitch sound when cranking. This truck would not start hot under any circumstances with the big starter. Now it spins great no matter how hot it is.

I have been told if the starter sound doesn't bother you, it will crank even the biggest bore / highest compression power plant.

[Katrina/10]

I does not make a whiny/wimpy sound like some starters. I love it, wish I had done this years ago instead of all the band-aid fixes and aggravation. I think it was about 80 bucks from Rock auto.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

I tried the Ford solenoid to fix a dragging hot starter on my 55, and it didn't help at all. Retarded the timing, new cables and battery, no good. I put a starter for a 95 truck on it, and cured it. Took the Ford solenoid off.

This setup isn't intended to cure a "dragging starter or one that drags when hot as those need the bushings replaced. It fixes the problem with the GM solenoid not kicking in right when it gets hot.

As far as the aftermarket gear reduction starters go, they seem to cause more problems than they ever fix and guys tend to buy them because "the cool guys have them" and then run into problems that are usually related to the drive gear not meshing with the flexplate or flywheel right. They have their purpose but most guys don't need them in the first place over a good heavy duty stock starter.

[Purcell69]

I first started using this set-up when I was racing stock cars in Yuma, AZ. Between 11:1 pop-up pistons and desert heat, this was the only way to ensure the engine could be restarted when hot.

I did the same thing when I built a 454 and installed it in the wife's 1978 C-10. I never had any hot-start issues.

-Joe

[1project2many]

I does not make a whiny/wimpy sound like some starters. I love it, wish I had done this years ago instead of all the band-aid fixes and aggravation.

They don't sound like whiny race starters but they do sound different. Listen to an LS engine crank over and you'll hear the same sound. They're gear reduction. Where I used to see 80k to maybe 120k miles out of a Delco starter, these often provide over 200k miles of service before first replacement. Someone else probably has a better memory about this but I *believe* they're based on a Mitsubishi design.

As far as the aftermarket gear reduction starters go, they seem to cause more problems than they ever fix and guys tend to buy them because "the cool guys have them"

I don't know what the mini-starters are today but for many years they were modified Nissan / Datsun starters. They were intended to fire a car at the track, not start a street driven vehicle over and over, day after day. Typical case of wrong application. And today the guys love to run 16V batteries and cook the snot out of the starter for a short time to overcome cranking issues. I can't wait for the post asking for help with a 12/16V system on a street truck.

I first started using this set-up when I was racing stock cars in Yuma, AZ. Between 11:1 pop-up pistons and desert heat, this was the only way to ensure the engine could be restarted when hot.

I did the same thing when I built a 454 and installed it in the wife's 1978 C-10. I never had any hot-start issues.

Years ago I modified the armature from an Olds Diesel starter to fit in a SBC nose and played around with the solenoid and pull-in linkage to build a high torque starter for one stock car. There were no issues with cranking and you could drive the car off the track on it if the battery was charged. Yes, the weight was impressive.