Turbo 350 to 700r4 swap

[HEADTURNINGC10]

Hey everyone I have a 84 k10 came factory with 6.2l diesel and 700r4 guy before did a half way job with a 350/350 conversion I pulled motor and trans to put a mild 350 and 700r4 I was hoping my truck still had the wires for the 700r4 but today found out it doesn't I went to the junk yard and pick up this short wire and plug for the 700 I've had the transmission built to hold up to 400hp new stall new cooler lines detent cable everything I could think of untill this can anyone help me with how I wire the 700 up or if there is an easier way to go about this
Thanks, ken
84 k10 swb 350 (my nightmare)

[jsavage977]

i'm assuming to have a shift kit in there also because its built. in my own opinion I would probably just run a aftermarket shift controller. it would probably work better and allow you to program or at least choose the shift characteristics. or you could wire it yourself with all the stock stuff you have and wire in a lock up switch that you could flip on when you are on the highway to get better gas mileage. well good luck

[jsavage977]

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...o/700R4p1.html

I googled and found this page filled with 700 diagrams and tech

[Just call me Sean]

Shift controller? It's a 700R4 not a 4L60E. He's got the factory lockup wiring, so it locks and unlocks automatically instead of flipping switches all the time.

I have searched lockup wiring before, plenty out there to show you how to wire it.

[jsavage977]

well that makes it way easier. I was thinking that it ran the same way the 4L60.

[HEADTURNINGC10]

Yes it does have a shift kit and a stall (2400) truck has a large cam though so i dont think a vacumm switch would be the best way. Has a higher rise intake with holley 650 with electric choke and thinking about installing a carb spacer but not sure how all the angles will line up, i am looking into getting a adapter off summit or something or if i can find a way to find out the angles from the 700r4 site that was posted.

[gchemist]

You can find good stock wiring info here: http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/garage_drivetrain.htm

If you have a true stall 2400, you don't need to connect wiring. I ditched all the wiring in my truck. I run a 2500 stall converter. It will stall/lockup in upper gears if RPMs are high enough. I drive around in 3rd for city driving. The 2500 stall converter kicks in at 45 MPH. It will stay locked up until I put my foot in it. I run a 24,000 GVW trans cooler along with the radiator cooler. My 700r4 is heavily modified and runs great.

[Just call me Sean]

It will not lock up without the wiring connected. I don't think you understand what lock up means.

[HEADTURNINGC10]

i have been told it is electronic lock up and i have a shift kit with corvette servo's and new clutches i wouldnt say mine is to heavily modified

[gchemist]

Originally Posted by Just call me Sean

It will not lock up without the wiring connected. I don't think you understand what lock up means.

LOL, really? I think I understand it well enough to ditch something that can be made better for a high torque motor.

[Just call me Sean]

Well, you don't seem to understand that it needs an electrical signal to lock up so yours doesn't lock up when you have no wiring. Fluid coupling- yes, direct mechanical coupling (lock up)- no.

[piecesparts]

NOTE: If the converter on the tranny is a "Lock Up" converter that is designed to lockup elctrically, then there is a need to connect a harness to some sort of switch to activate the lockup converter. As for a "Stall" converter, that is designed to activate or lock itself at a set RPM setup. That means that the factory designed lockup converter is not being used. However, the design of the factory lock up converter is to limit slippage and help reduce RPMs in the engine as it moves the vehicle down the road. Where as the Stall converter is designed to let an engine get to a set RPM, so that it can align the tranny to work with a larger cam design. The two concepts are different in use and response.

I presently have a 2300 Stall converter on my 700 tranny in my 84 GMC, but it does NOT have a lock up feature that would assist in daily driving and operation. Mine is installed due to a larger cam and the need to keep the engine from engaging the transmission at a stopped condition. I have set up my truck to maintain the RPMs on the highway at or above the stall, so that I limit the slippage and the heat generation created by that design of converter.

If you want a lockup converter feature to actuate, then you will have to one of a couple things to make it happen. !. Set up a vacuum swithc (large cam, not a good idea), 2. manual switch, stillo not a good idea, 3. Pull a pressure port plug on the side of the 700 and use transmission pressure to actuate a pressure switch to bring the lock up feature on.

Does that help?

[HEADTURNINGC10]

Yes sir that does I'm probably going to get the pressure switch one I don't like the manual switch idea either and I think I found a kit I like from monster transmission for a decent price but it I don't do anything to the trans yet and drive it before I get the kit nothing is going to mess up or try to lock and unlock continuously?

[Just call me Sean]

No signal, no lockup. It isn't reccomended to drive with the lockup not functional, but I have done it plenty. Hookup is not quite that simple. Wiring goes through the brake switch so it unlocks when you step on the brake. If it didn't, the truck would stall because it's locked.

[HEADTURNINGC10]

I am looking at https://www.monstertransmission.com/...me.asp#page-65 it's a lockup with a pressure switch and also looking at b&m power switch b and m is cheaper but I would also rather pay a little more to get a worry free item they both have the same stuff ideas?