08-27-2014, 11:19 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Gardnerville Nv No Mo Cali!!
Posts: 869
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Starter Problem?
Hi guys,
I haven't been very active lately, but I have been on the forum every day. It seems like every time I decide to leave some input on an issue that arises, someone beats me to the solution. I guess that's what happens when you join a forum where there are so many knowledgeable people. Now I have an issue of my own and I could use a bit of feedback. The other day I got in my truck to go on my daily ride and she wouldn't start. When I hit the ignition, all I got was a "Click". No problem. Probably a weak battery or a bad connection. I turned the headlights on high beam and they were nice and bright, so for good measure, I turned the fan on high. Everything was a go but still no ignition. The battery was putting out 12 volts so I cleaned the posts and cables and checked the ground. Still no ignition. I pulled the battery out of another car and jumped it with the truck battery and it finally started. With the engine running the battery was at 13.5 volts so the alternator checked fine. I shut the truck down and it immediately started. I have been driving it for about a week now and it has started every time. Then, yesterday I had the same problem and had to call my wife to come and jump start me. I'm thinking that it could be a worn starter brush and every once in a while when I shut the truck down the starter rotor lands on that "Sour spot" and won't turn. Before I remove the starter, I'd like to know what you guys think. |
08-27-2014, 02:58 PM | #2 |
Easy Does It
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dirdy Mo , North Carolina
Posts: 450
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Re: Starter Problem?
I had to replace my starter it was doing similar things , some days it would crank fine then sometimes it wouldn't , if its just clicking and not trying to turn over its probably the starter
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08-27-2014, 03:35 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Rt 66 Gallup, NM
Posts: 527
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Re: Starter Problem?
Check the hot wire coming off the positive battery cable. If it is still attached to a post on the fender, then it might be broken on that connection. Common problem.
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08-27-2014, 04:22 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga, TN
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Re: Starter Problem?
Starter. Good time to upgrade to a later style starter. Use 1995 350 Suburban as a reference. If you still have points, you will have to find a way to energize the yellow wire.
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'83 K20-TPI '73 C10 '79 C10-ex-diesel(SOLD) '07 Tahoe(Son driving) '14 Suburban-DD '71 C10-current project |
08-27-2014, 05:51 PM | #5 |
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Location: Gardnerville Nv No Mo Cali!!
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Re: Starter Problem?
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08-27-2014, 07:05 PM | #6 |
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Re: Starter Problem?
A charged battery is around 12.6V. Even so if the battery is going south it may read good w/ no load. Chances are yours is a bit discharged.
Before wasting money on parts, charge the battery for a few days on a slow charge. Starting the engine requires hundreds of amps. Driving charges slowly, so you need to drive it a long way to recharge after starting. You may also have some weak connections as well. |
08-27-2014, 09:56 PM | #7 | |
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Re: Starter Problem?
Quote:
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08-28-2014, 09:02 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga, TN
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Re: Starter Problem?
The later permanent magnet starters last much longer than the old black beasts. The old ones can break noses with high compression or if the brace is not put back. They also seem to be more likely to wear out the teeth on the flexplate. You can just bolt in the new style starters on old engines. They are much lighter to install. If you have HEI, no problem. The biggest issue with these is that if you have points, they don't have the "I" terminal for the yellow wire back to the coil to give you 12V for starting. You can go about that in 2 ways (or install HEI). 1) just don't have 12v for starting. I would not go that way. 2) add a relay so that when you energise the starter you give the coil 12v. Use a standard "Bosch 5 pin automotive relay". On the relay, hook 85 to "S" terminal on the starter solenoid along with the purple wire. 86 to ground. 87 to the big battery cable lug. 30 to the yellow wire that goes to the coil. 87A is not used.
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