Budget Approved Dillema (Which direction to go?)

[OrrieG]

I thought you were going to replace the rear end to get a better ratio and 5 lug wheels to match the new front suspension. Higher (low numerical) gear rations for 8 lug rearends are hard to come by and expensive since they were usually geared for grunt work not highway. You can get a newer axle with disc set up (s-10 4x4 for ad and camaro/firebird for tf, you did not say if your 55 is early or late) for less then you can convert the 8 lug gears and to discs.

[OrrieG]

sign above my work been for the last 35 years = "If you don't have time or money to do it right, where are you going to find the time and money to do it over?"

[Coach529]

I went back and forth many times with my build, and overall I am pleased with how it turned out.

350/ th350 combo
1/2 ton front axle with Speedway disc kit
updated dual master cyl/ manual brakes
blazer rear end with 3.43 gearing

[mr48chev]

I think you are pretty well bent on keeping the 8 lug so my suggestion there is swapping to a later model 8 lug that has more road friendly gears and is close enough in width so that you don't have tire rub problems. I'd have to ask my buddy to make sure but I think a mid 70's "dualie" rear axle h`

[yossarian19]

If you are keeping 8 lug front end and want a different rear end (for gear ratio or whatever else) there is really only one option: GM 14 Bolt Full Floater. Disc brakes, gear ratios, traction aids - it can all be done, and you can get them down to 63" wheel mount width easily.

[Coach529]

4.11 is about the tallest gearing you can find for the 8 bolt.......not ideal for a daily driver.

[yossarian19]

Not true.
You can get down to 3.21 in a 14 bolt.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

Not true.
You can get down to 3.21 in a 14 bolt.

Good to know. What are they common on? I have never seen anything lower than 4.11, although I have heard wives tales about 3.73.

[55dude]

that 292 is great engine and i would just add OD with some gear changes.

[gearhead2069]

I was watching PowerBlock TV not too long ago and they did a pretty interesting budget build on what I think was a 49 3100. They did really well for not a whole lot of change and I actually think it turned out looking pretty good. Go to their website and go under the program "Trucks!". You're looking for their Project Classix. There are about 11 or 12 videos but they are SO worth watching and I don't think you should start until you've seen all of them.

[Jonathans55]

I am not adamant on keeping the 8 lug but being a total novice i believe i have some videos to watch before i attempt to swap out axles. I guess i havent thought about it because i honestly dont know how to do it. From all the comments i see everyone makes it sound pretty easy lol. time to do more research! I dont know what id do without you guys!

[yossarian19]

Really and honestly,
I'd put a SBC / 700R4 or an LS / 4L60E in it (your call, SBC is easier & cheaper but not as reliable) and put new tires all around + the Hollister brake kit. Get power brakes in there if you decide you want them but I wouldn't necessarily say you gotta have them. Drive the car, do some reading / research, decide what you think you need or want out of it next.
Power steering & power brakes are common mods but if you have strong arms and even one strong leg disc brakes in front + overdrive + at least 200 horsepower will let you get around in modern traffic.
Axle swaps... are cool, but probably not necessary or even a great easy / fun project at this point.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

Really and honestly,
SBC is easier & cheaper but not as reliable)

I respectfully disagree with the reliability quote. I have had a 283, 327 or 350 sbc engined vehicle as my DD, except for a few months here and there for upgrading, since 1968. I figured I have put about 350,000 miles on them. I have never had a catastrophic failure on a street engine. Only time I remember being stranded were for things that happen with any car (battery failure). Other things have been a couple of fuel pumps and a wiring short related to the starter circuit. Every time I was able to fix it with parts readily available and tools in the box I keep in the trunk. I would much rather have to deal with an engine with one power input to the HEI and one fuel line to the carb than the complications modern fuel and electronic systems. I admit, they do run well when they are working but when they go bad get out your check book for towing and mechanic bills to diagnose and fix them.

[yossarian19]

Fair enough.
I'm not knocking the long block of the SBC, the things last a long time & can make stupid power for cheap.
I'll take modern EFI & engine construction each and every time, though.
Self tuning up & over mountains, in the cold, etc. Don't need to be jetted or rebuilt. No drama with starting it up, any weather any day any time. Spark plugs go 100K on a stock build, oil leaks are much less common. Hydraulic roller cams / lifters / rockers etc don't take any maintenance.
There are three reasons not to go LS (cost, ease & appearance) and about a million reasons to go for it IMO. If you can ignore the "cost" even ease & appearance can be had.

[mvitale27]

I have a GM 14 Bolt Full Floater with 3.73 gears. It is out of a '78 K20 with 8 lug 3/4 ton axles. The ring gear has a GM stamp on it so I assume this was the stock gearing.

[1project2many]

your call, SBC is easier & cheaper but not as reliable

I also disagree. As fleet manager for a bus company I can say we regularly get 250k to 300k miles or more on an engine before repair/replacement, and that's with the oil changes done at an outside location. If we could afford to do LOF here at the shop I think we'd see 350k and up.

I have a GM 14 Bolt Full Floater with 3.73 gears. It is out of a '78 K20 with 8 lug 3/4 ton axles. The ring gear has a GM stamp on it so I assume this was the stock gearing.

We have two diesel GM's vans with 14 bolt axles that have 3.73's.