235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

andsonsvd · 01-20-2014, 08:37 AM

I understand there is most likely already threads about this but I couldn't find one that helped after pages of searching.

I have my 58 235 Out of the car but can't seem to get the bell housing out. Do I need to remove the clutch etc first?

Thanks Shane

whitedog76 · 01-20-2014, 11:10 AM

There's hidden bolts behind the flywheel. Real convenient, right?

_Ogre · 01-20-2014, 08:37 PM

all the bolts are on the outside of the bellhousing and no you don't need to pull the clutch.
there are 2 alignment pins that precision line the bellhousing to the motor.
my guess is those are a little rusted or plain old tight and preventing you from pulling the two apart.

andsonsvd · 01-20-2014, 08:59 PM

Orge,

How do you suggest I get it off? Soak it in some sort of lubrication then "Convince it" with a hammer?

Shane

dwcsr · 01-20-2014, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _Ogre

all the bolts are on the outside of the bellhousing and no you don't need to pull the clutch.
there are 2 alignment pins that precision line the bellhousing to the motor.
my guess is those are a little rusted or plain old tight and preventing you from pulling the two apart.

Your pic is not a 235 pattern its a later engine

dwcsr · 01-20-2014, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andsonsvd

Orge,

How do you suggest I get it off? Soak it in some sort of lubrication then "Convince it" with a hammer?

Shane

Pop out the clutch fork if its there, then remove the clutch assembly. Inside there are 4 bolts that need to come out and two on the outside at the top. tap the bell back off the pins

Here is a thread on it

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601867

tinyjaime · 01-21-2014, 03:47 AM

yes you have to remove the clutch so you can remove the flywheel to get to the 4 hidden bolts. On the clutch housing the two easy bolts are on the outside towards the top. The other four are hidden on the inside behind the flywheel. If your motor spins, you are in good shape because you can rotate the flywheel to remove the bolts on flywheel to get access to clutch housing. However if it was like mine with the motor stuck. I had to remove the oil pan, harmonic balancer, gear cover, remove lifters, cam shaft, front motor plate, remove main caps, rod caps, rod bolts and oil pump. I rolled the crank from the bottom end on the block with the flywheel attached, once I did that I was able to get to the 4 inside bolts on the clutch housing. Glad I did it I almost made 235 a boat anchor. It was well worth the headache. http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psdad29a11.jpg

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7f751c37.jpg

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33cedf8b.jpg

_Ogre · 01-21-2014, 09:07 PM

i guess i'll eat my crow like a grown man

bad advise andson, i guess it's been a while and my crs kicked in

**mr48chev** · 01-21-2014, 10:20 PM

Tinyjamie pretty well nailed it.

Remember that the clutch pressure plate is fairly heavy and you will feel like you need three hands to get it and the disk out. The flywheel borders on real heavy and you don't want to be directly under it when you are taking it off. I pack a few scars from taking those things out of a 235 truck.

andsonsvd · 01-22-2014, 07:59 AM

thanks guys i have the motor out already will that make it easier mrchev?

**mr48chev** · 01-22-2014, 11:40 AM

A bit easier as you don't have to lay under it to get the clutch and flywheel out like you would in the truck . If you still have the engine hooked to the engine hoist I'd lift it up high enough so I could sit or stand behind the bellhousing and get hold of the pressure plate with both hands and then the flywheel with both hands. I dropped a flywheel on my arm a few years ago and didn't break it but it was sore and had ring gear teeth marks on it for a long time.

andsonsvd · 01-23-2014, 08:01 AM

Success!!

Nothing bad but filthy hands!!

Now to fit my Langdon's Adaptor for my 4L60E!

Onwards and Upwards!

Thanks as always guys couldn't do it without you!

Sorry about the bad pic. was filthy but excited!

Shane

whitedog76 · 01-23-2014, 10:38 AM

I'd like to see pictures of your adapter and transmission in place.

BTW- Are you planning on building the engine up at all? Bigger camshaft, dual carbs, etc...?

andsonsvd · 01-23-2014, 10:47 AM

Whitedog,

I will post pictures of the adaptor for sure.

Yes i am going to fit an offenhauser dual carb manifold.

might help with the weight of the truck!

Shane

antiquated mule · 09-22-2014, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinyjaime

yes you have to remove the clutch so you can remove the flywheel to get to the 4 hidden bolts. On the clutch housing the two easy bolts are on the outside towards the top. The other four are hidden on the inside behind the flywheel. If your motor spins, you are in good shape because you can rotate the flywheel to remove the bolts on flywheel to get access to clutch housing. However if it was like mine with the motor stuck. I had to remove the oil pan, harmonic balancer, gear cover, remove lifters, cam shaft, front motor plate, remove main caps, rod caps, rod bolts and oil pump. I rolled the crank from the bottom end on the block with the flywheel attached, once I did that I was able to get to the 4 inside bolts on the clutch housing. Glad I did it I almost made 235 a boat anchor. It was well worth the headache. http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psdad29a11.jpg

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7f751c37.jpg

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33cedf8b.jpg

Hey tinyjaime. I'm in the same boat as you were as far as starting with a seized motor. Just wondering if you can share any more details or tips for the dismantling process you went through to get your clutch and flywheel removed. Did you try and get the motor unstuck first by removing the head and drowning the cylinders with a penetrating oil of some kind or did you just dive right in to the dis-assembly process you described? I was considering trying to get mine unstuck first, but need to tear it all down anyway so it's 6 of one half a dozen of the other at this point I guess. But it would be nice to mount it to a stand for most of this procedure.

Anyway. any tips, tricks,details or advice you have would be appreciated. This is my first full sized engine rebuild. I'm usually messing with old Harley Davidson engines and built a 1950 Panhead motor and 4 speed tranny from the ground up last year. Also had a '63 Biscayne with a 230 that I used to wrench on quite a bit and swapped out the 3 speed saginaw one year so I am familiar to an extent.

Thanks again.

tinyjaime · 09-22-2014, 05:27 PM

If you can free the motor up by removing the spark plugs and pouring oil on top of the pistons and rocking it it's better but if if was stuck like mine you need remove the head and drop out the crank by removing all the stuff listed above. However keep everything and mark the locations such as bearings and bearing caps, rods and pistons. If you get the crank removed and the pistons are still stuck then you need to have a bfh (big adjective hammer) and a piece of wood and knock it out. Then take it to the machine shop to have it hot tanked and magnafluxed. Then your ready for step 2 if the bock is good.

01-20-2014, 08:37 AM	#1
andsonsvd Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Perth Western Australia Posts: 146	235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch I understand there is most likely already threads about this but I couldn't find one that helped after pages of searching. I have my 58 235 Out of the car but can't seem to get the bell housing out. Do I need to remove the clutch etc first? Thanks Shane __________________ Australian GM/Holden Dealer 1937 Chev Rod - LS1/4L60E 1949 Chevy 4400 Dually - 235ci/4L60E 1958 Chevy Apache Fleetside SBC/T400

01-20-2014, 11:10 AM	#2
whitedog76 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Peoria, IL Posts: 1,450	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch There's hidden bolts behind the flywheel. Real convenient, right?

01-20-2014, 08:37 PM	#3
_Ogre Registered User Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Motown Posts: 7,680	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch all the bolts are on the outside of the bellhousing and no you don't need to pull the clutch. there are 2 alignment pins that precision line the bellhousing to the motor. my guess is those are a little rusted or plain old tight and preventing you from pulling the two apart. __________________ cool, an ogre smiley Ogre's 58 Truk build how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer

01-20-2014, 08:59 PM	#4
andsonsvd Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Perth Western Australia Posts: 146	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch Orge, How do you suggest I get it off? Soak it in some sort of lubrication then "Convince it" with a hammer? Shane __________________ Australian GM/Holden Dealer 1937 Chev Rod - LS1/4L60E 1949 Chevy 4400 Dually - 235ci/4L60E 1958 Chevy Apache Fleetside SBC/T400

01-21-2014, 03:47 AM	#7
tinyjaime Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Henderson Nevada Posts: 76	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch yes you have to remove the clutch so you can remove the flywheel to get to the 4 hidden bolts. On the clutch housing the two easy bolts are on the outside towards the top. The other four are hidden on the inside behind the flywheel. If your motor spins, you are in good shape because you can rotate the flywheel to remove the bolts on flywheel to get access to clutch housing. However if it was like mine with the motor stuck. I had to remove the oil pan, harmonic balancer, gear cover, remove lifters, cam shaft, front motor plate, remove main caps, rod caps, rod bolts and oil pump. I rolled the crank from the bottom end on the block with the flywheel attached, once I did that I was able to get to the 4 inside bolts on the clutch housing. Glad I did it I almost made 235 a boat anchor. It was well worth the headache. http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psdad29a11.jpg http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7f751c37.jpg http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33cedf8b.jpg Last edited by tinyjaime; 01-21-2014 at 03:49 AM. Reason: forget pic

01-21-2014, 09:07 PM	#8
_Ogre Registered User Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Motown Posts: 7,680	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch i guess i'll eat my crow like a grown man bad advise andson, i guess it's been a while and my crs kicked in __________________ cool, an ogre smiley Ogre's 58 Truk build how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer

01-21-2014, 10:20 PM	#9
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,719	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch Tinyjamie pretty well nailed it. Remember that the clutch pressure plate is fairly heavy and you will feel like you need three hands to get it and the disk out. The flywheel borders on real heavy and you don't want to be directly under it when you are taking it off. I pack a few scars from taking those things out of a 235 truck. __________________ Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around.

01-22-2014, 07:59 AM	#10
andsonsvd Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Perth Western Australia Posts: 146	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch thanks guys i have the motor out already will that make it easier mrchev? __________________ Australian GM/Holden Dealer 1937 Chev Rod - LS1/4L60E 1949 Chevy 4400 Dually - 235ci/4L60E 1958 Chevy Apache Fleetside SBC/T400

01-22-2014, 11:40 AM	#11
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,719	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch A bit easier as you don't have to lay under it to get the clutch and flywheel out like you would in the truck . If you still have the engine hooked to the engine hoist I'd lift it up high enough so I could sit or stand behind the bellhousing and get hold of the pressure plate with both hands and then the flywheel with both hands. I dropped a flywheel on my arm a few years ago and didn't break it but it was sore and had ring gear teeth marks on it for a long time. __________________ Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around.

01-23-2014, 08:01 AM	#12
andsonsvd Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Perth Western Australia Posts: 146	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch Success!! Nothing bad but filthy hands!! Now to fit my Langdon's Adaptor for my 4L60E! Onwards and Upwards! Thanks as always guys couldn't do it without you! Sorry about the bad pic. was filthy but excited! Shane Attached Images __________________ Australian GM/Holden Dealer 1937 Chev Rod - LS1/4L60E 1949 Chevy 4400 Dually - 235ci/4L60E 1958 Chevy Apache Fleetside SBC/T400

01-23-2014, 10:38 AM	#13
whitedog76 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Peoria, IL Posts: 1,450	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch I'd like to see pictures of your adapter and transmission in place. BTW- Are you planning on building the engine up at all? Bigger camshaft, dual carbs, etc...?

01-23-2014, 10:47 AM	#14
andsonsvd Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Perth Western Australia Posts: 146	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch Whitedog, I will post pictures of the adaptor for sure. Yes i am going to fit an offenhauser dual carb manifold. might help with the weight of the truck! Shane __________________ Australian GM/Holden Dealer 1937 Chev Rod - LS1/4L60E 1949 Chevy 4400 Dually - 235ci/4L60E 1958 Chevy Apache Fleetside SBC/T400

09-22-2014, 05:27 PM	#16
tinyjaime Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Henderson Nevada Posts: 76	Re: 235ci Removing Bell Housing & Clutch If you can free the motor up by removing the spark plugs and pouring oil on top of the pistons and rocking it it's better but if if was stuck like mine you need remove the head and drop out the crank by removing all the stuff listed above. However keep everything and mark the locations such as bearings and bearing caps, rods and pistons. If you get the crank removed and the pistons are still stuck then you need to have a bfh (big adjective hammer) and a piece of wood and knock it out. Then take it to the machine shop to have it hot tanked and magnafluxed. Then your ready for step 2 if the bock is good.



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